Windows 7 64bit BSOD

CPUZ will tell you exactly what everything is set at currently:
CPUID

IBT will stress the system for stability:
IntelBurnTest v2.3 download from Guru3D.com

Run for 5 passes at max load see if it will pass. If it does, then none of the above applies. CPU/RAM/Voltages etc are fine.


If you know exactly what the settings should be, IE on the package the RAM came in .. I would manually set the timings.
im unfamiliar with the MSI bios

In the bios, it should however have something similar to :
may not be exactly labeled as such but should be very close
DRAM Configuration: Manual
CAS Latency (CL): --> These 4 should be set to what the RAM says its rated for
tRCD: -->
tRP: -->
tRAS: -->
Advanced memory Setting: Auto

FSB/DRAM ratio: 1:1:20 <--- changing DRAM strap here should reflect below

Adjusted ((or target)) Dram Frequency: <---- RAM speed with current settings.
If this says 1333, changing the above so this reflects 1066 will be underclocking the RAM

Please do NOT OC and be careful what you change.... these are the only setting we are concerned with atm
the goal is to underclock .. IF a stress test fails
then, get stable at stock speeds :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
CPUZ will tell you exactly what everything is set at currently:
CPUID

IBT will stress the system for stability:
IntelBurnTest v2.3 download from Guru3D.com

Run for 5 passes at max load see if it will pass. If it does, then none of the above applies. CPU/RAM/Voltages etc are fine.


If you know exactly what the settings should be, IE on the package the RAM came in .. I would manually set the timings.

I have set my DRAM Timing to 1066.

So should i run the test on 1066 or revert back to 1333 and test?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I have uploaded a screenshot of CPUZ.. :geek:
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
well, we know theres issues at 1333 ...

So please try that stress test at 1066 and see if it will pass.

this test stresses CPU/NB/RAM all working in tandem. This should tell us if the MOBO is having issues running all 4 slots full at 1333 speeds.

Also, from what im seeing timings should be 9-9-9-24... but i very well may be looking at wrong model.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
well, we know theres issues at 1333 ...

So please try that stress test at 1066 and see if it will pass.

this test stresses CPU/NB/RAM all working in tandem. This should tell us if the MOBO is having issues running all 4 slots full at 1333 speeds.

Also, from what im seeing timings should be 9-9-9-24... but i very well may be looking at wrong model.

Since the Latency timings is set to auto i think. Should i be adjusting it?

Btw this is my Stress Test Results.. Do have a look ;)
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
well, we know theres issues at 1333 ...

So please try that stress test at 1066 and see if it will pass.

this test stresses CPU/NB/RAM all working in tandem. This should tell us if the MOBO is having issues running all 4 slots full at 1333 speeds.

Also, from what im seeing timings should be 9-9-9-24... but i very well may be looking at wrong model.

Since the Latency timings is set to auto i think. Should i be adjusting it?

Btw this is my Stress Test Results.. Do have a look ;)

Excellent!! However, to be more accurate, youll want to change stress level form Standard --> Very High or Maximum.
it will take longer to run though, but would be advisable, especially considering you have 8GB RAm

Have the problems seemed to have disappeared for now, or usually take longer to show up?

well, at 1066 the tighter timings may just be fine.
At 1333 it may causing issues.

If you want, you can try and revert to 1333, as is, and do the test again. just to see what results you get.

if it fails, then try to change timings to 9-9-9-24 and run again to see what that shows.

If you get failures at 133, then we know why and what is causing your problems :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
I'm having my own problems now with a Windows 7 upgrade from Vista on an HP slimline desktop PC Presario. They are still unresolved. The Slimline was quite adequate and in very good shape only a couple of years old. It was running just fine trouble free on Vista so my hardware is not an issue. During the ensuing trouble shooting I have accumulated some information.

You really didn't say in your opening post what model, make computer you are using, age, other software.

* An upgrade disk is not the same as an install disk. You can't use an upgrade disk to repair corrupted files.

* A 64 bit system isn't compatible with a 32 bit system. If you are trying to run old 32 bit files, etc. on the Windows 7 64 bit system some will not run.

* Some external hardware can be a problem. I see that it was already mentioned.

* Any computer that has been around for a while is loaded up with unwanted malware, adware and possibly viruses and worms. A good clean scrubbing is necessary with appropriate software.

* Windows 7 doesn't upgrade directly from XP. There are special instructions for dealing with it.

In my particular case as soon as I upgraded to Windows 7 there was immediately an issue. "Dealio file cannot be found". As it turns out Dealio is a bandit software that loaded a toolbar unbeknown to me. I used Reg Cure to correct the problem but when Windows 7 sent another update, the next day I couldn't boot up. Eventually I was able to get some troubleshooting to work via the F-10 and F-11 keys and there was one problem - boot config corrupted. Since I can't use the Windows 7 upgrade disk to fix the problem I ordered recovery disks from HP - cost $16.29. They are being shipped due in on January 12Th. They will uninstall Windows 7 and reinstall the original factory OEM Vista.

From what I am reading there are an inordinate number of problems reported here with Windows 7 upgrades, freezes, lockups. So I'll offer my opinion:

* Make recovery disks, system and other recommended disks while you are still operating.

* Try system restore to an earlier date.

* Think about uninstalling Windows 7 and reverting back to your original OS.

* Clean your system using a good, reliable software that removes all of the "bad stuff".


*Go to "accessories" and run scan disk, fix disk and every other remedial tool there. A good house cleaning.

* Go through all files, videos, photos, music and toss out obsolete and unwanted junk. Relocate little used files to an external hard drive backup or onto CD's/DVD's.

* If you system was running OK before upgrading to Windows 7, logic dictates that all of your hardware is operating properly.

* You can re-upgrade to Windows 7 is desired.

I bought a new computer HP desktop Pavilion, the latest. It came with Windows 7 already installed. It runs just fine, no problems. Thus there isn't really an issue with the software. I think the problem that many are having, myself included, is that Windows 7 encounters something that is just doesn't like. For example I was warned, on the computer, that Google may not run right. Well I installed Google toolbar and Google Earth on my new computer and there really isn't any problem detectable.

I have been in the computer game from it's inception and I have found that invariably when Windows introduces a new version, inevitable there are problems somewhere. Some peripheral suppliers are still selling old inventory or some haven't caught up or Microsoft hasn't introduced some patch.

It takes lots of time, patience and money to conquer these problems. Oh, and one other suggestion - I go to Barnes and Noble and buy the Windows "bible" for that version as well as the "trouble shooting bible"
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP - P6000
OS
Windows 7
CPU
Intel Pentium
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2159m
CPUZ

a screen shot of CPUZ memory tab would be helpful also what ram are you using check CPU voltage I see you CPU is running at lowest stock voltage you might try to increase CPU voltage to about 1 watt right now you are under a watt also ram voltage is important sometimes it's just a matter of proper voltage settings in the bios

also stop and disable the NVIDIA DRIVER DISPLAY SERVICE
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Overclocked to 3.0Ghz
Motherboard
Biostar TF560 A2+
Memory
2 Gigs of G.Skill DDR2 800
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro With IceQ cooler
Sound Card
6.1 Channel Sound Blaster Live 24 Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 20.5 " LG Flatrons W2052TO
Screen Resolution
1152x864
Hard Drives
Dual 36 Gig 10,000 RPM Raptors
PSU
430 watt Seasonic 80%+ Dual 12v Rails 2x80mm fans
Case
CHIEFMAX YA-5X
Cooling
4-80mm case fans 1-140mm case fan freezer 64 Pro CPU cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse II
Mouse
A4Tech wireless battery free optical scroll mouse
Internet Speed
1.5 meg down 384 up
Other Info
Logisys LED fan/light controller and dual 16" LED sticks mounted inside top of case all fans are LED all lighting is blue
DVD RW and CD RW both and Memory card reader
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Here are the results for the IntelBurn test on 1066 @ Maximum mode.. It looks fine.. I'll try 1333 tests tomorrow.. Since i need to leave my PC alone overnight to run and see if there is any BSOD appearing..

Will let you know once im up in the morning.. Take care guys..:sleepy:
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
a screen shot of CPUZ memory tab would be helpful also what ram are you using check CPU voltage I see you CPU is running at lowest stock voltage you might try to increase CPU voltage to about 1 watt right now you are under a watt also ram voltage is important sometimes it's just a matter of proper voltage settings in the bios

also stop and disable the NVIDIA DRIVER DISPLAY SERVICE

http://www.sevenforums.com/crashes-debugging/52356-windows-7-64bit-bsod-7.html#post484157

Please look at my attachement in this link.. I have pasted the CPUZ memory tab.. ;)

How to i stop and display the Nvidia Driver display service?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Service

start run type services.msc
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Overclocked to 3.0Ghz
Motherboard
Biostar TF560 A2+
Memory
2 Gigs of G.Skill DDR2 800
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro With IceQ cooler
Sound Card
6.1 Channel Sound Blaster Live 24 Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 20.5 " LG Flatrons W2052TO
Screen Resolution
1152x864
Hard Drives
Dual 36 Gig 10,000 RPM Raptors
PSU
430 watt Seasonic 80%+ Dual 12v Rails 2x80mm fans
Case
CHIEFMAX YA-5X
Cooling
4-80mm case fans 1-140mm case fan freezer 64 Pro CPU cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse II
Mouse
A4Tech wireless battery free optical scroll mouse
Internet Speed
1.5 meg down 384 up
Other Info
Logisys LED fan/light controller and dual 16" LED sticks mounted inside top of case all fans are LED all lighting is blue
DVD RW and CD RW both and Memory card reader
I do not recommend the use of Registry scanners/cleaners - they cause more problems than they are worth (and, IMO, they really don't help things out anyway).

Memory dumps point to core Windows files - which is unlikely because you'd have lot's of other issues if the core files were corrupted. So, please try this:
Using Driver Verifier is an iffy proposition. Most times it'll crash and it'll tell you what the driver is. But sometimes it'll crash and won't tell you the driver. Other times it'll crash before you can log in to Windows. If you can't get to Safe Mode, then you'll have to resort to offline editing of the registry to disable Driver Verifier.

So, I'd suggest that you first backup your stuff and then make sure you've got access to another computer so you can contact us if problems arise. Then make a System Restore point (so you can restore the system using the Vista/Win7 Startup Repair feature).

Then, here's the procedure:
- Go to Start and type in "verifier" (without the quotes) and press Enter
- Select "Create custom settings (for code developers)" and click "Next"
- Select "Select individual settings from a full list" and click "Next"
- Select everything EXCEPT FOR "Low Resource Simulation" and click "Next"
- Select "Select driver names from a list" and click "Next"
Then select all drivers NOT provided by Microsoft and click "Next"
- Select "Finish" on the next page.

Reboot the system and wait for it to crash to the Blue Screen. Continue to use your system normally, and if you know what causes the crash, do that repeatedly. The objective here is to get the system to crash because Driver Verifier is stressing the drivers out.

Reboot into Windows (after the crash) and turn off Driver Verifier by going back in and selecting "Delete existing settings" on the first page, then locate and zip up the memory dump file and upload it with your next post.

If you can't get into Windows because it crashes too soon, try it in Safe Mode.
If you can't get into Safe Mode, try using System Restore from your installation DVD to set the system back to the previous restore point that you created.
If that doesn't work, post back and we'll have to see about fixing the registry entry off-line.

More info on this at this link: Using Driver Verifier to identify issues with Windows drivers for advanced users
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built (x64), Lenovo x61s Tablet, Samsung Netbook
OS
Win7 x64 + x86
CPU
Intel i7 920, other Intel chips, and the Atom in the netbook
Motherboard
Asus P6T Deluxe
Memory
12 gB; 4 gB Lenovo; 1 gB Samsung netbook
Graphics Card(s)
ATI 4870
Sound Card
Yes, I have one of these
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Sharp Aquos TV
Screen Resolution
800x600 - I have vision issues
Hard Drives
4 - 150 gB Velociraptors in RAID 5
Promise controller
PSU
1000 watt (can't recall the brand)
Case
Antec 300
Cooling
Big honking cooler that was rated highly at Toms Hardware
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural
Mouse
Logitech Trackman
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
GeekSquad UPS
CyberPower UPS
DLink DNS-323 NAS (2 tB)
Netgear wireless router as an access point
Netgear wired router FSV-318
Home network consists of
4 desktop computers (2 Vista, 2 Win7)
1 netbook (Win7)
4 laptop computers (XP, 2-Vista, Win7)
Wii and XBox 360
well, we know theres issues at 1333 ...

So please try that stress test at 1066 and see if it will pass.

this test stresses CPU/NB/RAM all working in tandem. This should tell us if the MOBO is having issues running all 4 slots full at 1333 speeds.

Also, from what im seeing timings should be 9-9-9-24... but i very well may be looking at wrong model.

Since the Latency timings is set to auto i think. Should i be adjusting it?

Btw this is my Stress Test Results.. Do have a look ;)

Excellent!! However, to be more accurate, youll want to change stress level form Standard --> Very High or Maximum.
it will take longer to run though, but would be advisable, especially considering you have 8GB RAm

Have the problems seemed to have disappeared for now, or usually take longer to show up?

well, at 1066 the tighter timings may just be fine.
At 1333 it may causing issues.

If you want, you can try and revert to 1333, as is, and do the test again. just to see what results you get.

if it fails, then try to change timings to 9-9-9-24 and run again to see what that shows.

If you get failures at 133, then we know why and what is causing your problems :)

@Wishmaster

I have let my PC run for more then 24hours already @1066 speed. So far no crashes like i mentioned earlier. I will try to revert back to 1333 and run the stress test and see if there is any chances of failing. If yes i will change the timings like you have mentioned. ;)
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
It seems this was the root of your issue. Depending on the board, the MAX rated RAM speed does tend to be changed when you populate all 4 slots.
You may or may not be able to run all 4 slots at 1333, or may just take voltage tweaks to stabilize it.

At this point you can leave as is, or try to attempt getting 1333 speeds. You may need to loosen timings
((Keep in mind the timings you currently have, as if you decide to stay at 1066, the tighter timings will help you just slightly -- and we know its happy here))

Stress with IBT MAX load.

If that doesnt work, NB voltages etc may be in order.


The bad thing is with RAM unstable it probably has caused much deeper issues overall for your windows install.
Chances of file corruption are really bad (nearly 100%) even if it all of it isnt immediatley apparent, as pointed out.
Especially if it was unstable when you initially installed Windows.
If it were me, I would make sure its perfectly stable, and happy with it, and then do a clean install.


However, others here may be more adept at helping you track down and repair these issues so no re-install is needed. I wouldn't really know where to start myself, other than clean install.

Im glad you got the issue resolved (or at least pin pointed) :) But still more to be done
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
It seems this was the root of your issue.

At this point you can leave as is, or try to attempt getting 1333 speeds. You may need to loosen timing/

Stress with IBT MAX load.

If that doesnt work, NB voltages etc may be in order.


The bad thing is with RAM unstable it probably has caused much deeper issues overall for your windows install.
Chances of file corruption are really bad (nearly 100%) even if it all of it isnt immediatley apparent, as pointed out.
Especially if it was unstable when you initially installed Windows.
If it were me, I would make sure its perfectly stable, and happy with it, and then do a clean install.


However, others here may be able to help you repair any damage the unstable memory may have causes so its not needed. I wouldn't really know where to start myself, other than clean install.

Im glad you got the issue resolved :) But still more to be done

So wat is your best advice for my situation. So i just leave it as it is 1066 and do a clean install of Win 7 again. Since i do not require all the high speeds or overclockings etc since im not into gaming. Mine is just for Office use and some applications. Other then that there isnt anything much of use with my PC. :cool:

So what would you suggest?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Ram speed

remember that a lot of boards list the memory spec with 1066 1333(OC) this means that the board will run the ram at 1066 at a stock FSB in order to achieve the 1333 you must overlock the the FSB which will increase the Ram speed it dosen't mean you just put in some ram rated at 1333 and it just runs at that
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Overclocked to 3.0Ghz
Motherboard
Biostar TF560 A2+
Memory
2 Gigs of G.Skill DDR2 800
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro With IceQ cooler
Sound Card
6.1 Channel Sound Blaster Live 24 Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 20.5 " LG Flatrons W2052TO
Screen Resolution
1152x864
Hard Drives
Dual 36 Gig 10,000 RPM Raptors
PSU
430 watt Seasonic 80%+ Dual 12v Rails 2x80mm fans
Case
CHIEFMAX YA-5X
Cooling
4-80mm case fans 1-140mm case fan freezer 64 Pro CPU cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse II
Mouse
A4Tech wireless battery free optical scroll mouse
Internet Speed
1.5 meg down 384 up
Other Info
Logisys LED fan/light controller and dual 16" LED sticks mounted inside top of case all fans are LED all lighting is blue
DVD RW and CD RW both and Memory card reader
It seems this was the root of your issue.

At this point you can leave as is, or try to attempt getting 1333 speeds. You may need to loosen timing/

Stress with IBT MAX load.

If that doesnt work, NB voltages etc may be in order.


The bad thing is with RAM unstable it probably has caused much deeper issues overall for your windows install.
Chances of file corruption are really bad (nearly 100%) even if it all of it isnt immediatley apparent, as pointed out.
Especially if it was unstable when you initially installed Windows.
If it were me, I would make sure its perfectly stable, and happy with it, and then do a clean install.


However, others here may be able to help you repair any damage the unstable memory may have causes so its not needed. I wouldn't really know where to start myself, other than clean install.

Im glad you got the issue resolved :) But still more to be done

So wat is your best advice for my situation. So i just leave it as it is 1066 and do a clean install of Win 7 again. Since i do not require all the high speeds or overclockings etc since im not into gaming. Mine is just for Office use and some applications. Other then that there isnt anything much of use with my PC. :cool:

So what would you suggest?

If the issue is resolved you may consider leaving as is for what you do.


Even gaming however, the higher RAM speed will not make any significant difference.
You can try 1333, and the lower timings, however this is your call.

I would clean install,
BUT ...Before you do a clean install, I would check with others to see what their opinion is. They may be able to help you find and repair any corruption caused.
I do not know if its possible, or not honestly.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
if in doubt

if in doubt format and reinstall you have to make sure that bios and hardware are correct BEFORE you install OS!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Overclocked to 3.0Ghz
Motherboard
Biostar TF560 A2+
Memory
2 Gigs of G.Skill DDR2 800
Graphics Card(s)
HIS ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro With IceQ cooler
Sound Card
6.1 Channel Sound Blaster Live 24 Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 20.5 " LG Flatrons W2052TO
Screen Resolution
1152x864
Hard Drives
Dual 36 Gig 10,000 RPM Raptors
PSU
430 watt Seasonic 80%+ Dual 12v Rails 2x80mm fans
Case
CHIEFMAX YA-5X
Cooling
4-80mm case fans 1-140mm case fan freezer 64 Pro CPU cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse II
Mouse
A4Tech wireless battery free optical scroll mouse
Internet Speed
1.5 meg down 384 up
Other Info
Logisys LED fan/light controller and dual 16" LED sticks mounted inside top of case all fans are LED all lighting is blue
DVD RW and CD RW both and Memory card reader
I have set my RAM to run at 1333 and ran the IntelBurn test. Its passed strangely? :shock:
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
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