Solved New CPU cooler for my PC

[Indianatone]

Hyper 212 Plus Installation Video - YouTube

This video from Cooler Master shows how to fit it. I have 3 of them in my systems, all push pull and they are superb. I got Artic Silver MX2 to use on my heatsinks....

 

[bobafetthotmail]

as long as you aren't OC it any paste with a brand on it will be fine. The only ones that suck even without OC are the ones without name you get from shady cheapo dealers or with cheapo parts from soviet China.

 

[LittleJay]

Hyper 212 Plus Installation Video - YouTube

This video from Cooler Master shows how to fit it. I have 3 of them in my systems, all push pull and they are superb. I got Artic Silver MX2 to use on my heatsinks....

Thanks for the link to the video! It gives me a good idea of what I can expect, when the Hyper 212+ arrives and I want to install it.

 

[LittleJay]

as long as you aren't OC it any paste with a brand on it will be fine. The only ones that suck even without OC are the ones without name you get from shady cheapo dealers or with cheapo parts from soviet China.

When I do get the new CPU cooler installed, I might try overclocking, so that is why I have gone with a higher grade of thermal paste.

 

[linnemeyerhere]

This is a fairly comprehensive review and the method they use of the two heavy lines would seem to be the best for the OP's new cooler or the thin credit card spread?

Benchmark Reviews: Performance Computer Hardware Tests

 

[essenbe]

I find this interesting.

 

[kbrady1979]

If you click the MX-2 link in the video, it will show you how it reacts to different methods. Arctic MX-2/4 spreads out very easily and in my opinion needs the BB or "pea" method as they call it. It covers the cores completely, but doesn't get close enough to the edges to cause any problems. Tried and true method.

 

[LittleJay]

Just finished pulling the Intel stock CPU from my PC in preparation to installing the new one, which should be here early next week. I noticed that the thermal paste that was applied by the PC maker was just a thick glob and from what I understand, it is best to have a thin layer. It was possibly the reason the CPU temps were running hotter than they should have.

 

[kbrady1979]

Just finished pulling the Intel stock CPU from my PC in preparation to installing the new one, which should be here early next week. I noticed that the thermal paste that was applied by the PC maker was just a thick glob and from what I understand, it is best to have a thin layer. It was possibly the reason the CPU temps were running hotter than they should have.

Very well could have been. With the MX4 you ordered, you will use a tiny amount because it spreads out so well. You'll give it a twist or two back and forth and then lock it down. Should have no problems as it spreads out to a thin layer and shouldn't have any air bubbles in it.

 

[linnemeyerhere]

I would seriously doubt that the factory applied thermal paste was to blame. In most cases the paste/compound will need to cycle in with some heat and cooling sessions. Many suggest running a program that runs the temps up on your CPU to make this break in and seasoning process quicker. Will you get lower temps with a properly applied premium paste.....yes....will it lower the temps by some fantastic number.......highly unlikely. If after some long sessions the temps haven't dropped then maybe look to the way the cooler was installed and or other case air issues. Nice slow even tightening of the cooler down to the CPU is key. I'm not for a moment saying you installed the cooler wrong but when setting the cooler down and tightening, this isn't the time to work fast. I like to allow the cooler to be wiggled to aid the spreading out of the compound and then tighten the screws evenly to a semi tight position then allow the paste to spread more, maybe another little wiggle. Then slowly tighten evenly side to side till fully seated and tight. Slow and steady.....and less is more rules always apply to my cooler installations.

 

[LittleJay]

In another thread I read that with the 212 plus will need to have the gaps between the heat pipes filled in with thermal compound before you put it on and I was wondering what the best method for doing this is.

 

[kbrady1979]

I have seen very low quality thermal paste get hard and lose its conductive properties after awhile.......it's not common, but it does happen. As for the gaps in the cooler base, depending on how deep they are, you may not have to do anything different. If the gaps are fairly deep, you may need to put a bigger dollop of paste on the CPU and let it fill in the gaps when you are applying pressure and twisting it. I'm sure someone will have another way of doing it, but just remember that the paste you got will spread out quite a bit more than other pastes.

 

[LittleJay]

Thanks Kelly, I really appreciate your input! I removed the motherboard today, after making notes of where everything is supposed to hook back up. The Haf X case soes have a cut out in back of the CPU, but I noticed that the edge of case still covers about half of the holes for mounting the bracket. This experience will help to give me the confidence to build my own PC someday.

 

[linnemeyerhere]

With those gaps as I mentioned previously.......I would fill those with thermal paste using a pea size dot then a piece of plastic to just fill the gaps in and maybe just a smear over the rest of the surface, then drop two rice grain sized lines on the CPU and mount. Or you can add just a bit more of the paste on the cooler side again create a thin layer over the cooler plate end mount it on a clean CPU.

 

[LittleJay]

With those gaps as I mentioned previously.......I would fill those with thermal paste using a pea size dot then a piece of plastic to just fill the gaps in and maybe just a smear over the rest of the surface, then drop two rice grain sized lines on the CPU and mount. Or you can add just a bit more of the paste on the cooler side again create a thin layer over the cooler plate end mount it on a clean CPU.

Thanks for your input! One question I have. If I smear a pea sized drop of thermal paste over the CPU cooler, do you think adding two more lines on the CPU plate is necessary? I mean wouldn't that be more paste than is needed? The reason I ask is because from what I have read so far, it seems that the less paste you use the better. Please forgive the ignorance of a first timer, but I really want to get it right the first time, so I don't have to go through the process again.

 

[Britton30]

Use a coffee filter to wipe it off from the cooler plate, it will leave enough in the spaces, wipe it 90 degrees to the spaces. I use only one single rice grain glop on mine, no chance of creating an air bubble when you clamp the cooler on.

 

[Bungee18]

I do not have a lot of experience, but have been experimenting a lot during the past two or three months.
I tried filling the gaps between the heat pipes and the plate and then a pea sized drop of thermal paste on the CPU. Cooked it for like twenty ours. Then did the same but without filling the gaps and just the pea sized drop on the CPU. No difference whatsoever in temps, both idle and full load. Based on my personal experience, just a waste of thermal compound. That's for my cooler and my CPU though.
Whereas I experienced a noticeable difference switching from Arctic Silver MX-5 to IC Diamond 7 Carat. 2.5/3 C idle, 4 C full load.
IC Diamond is harder to apply, you need to warm it up it hot water before applying because it is very dense, but I read that it maintains its properties far longer than Arctic Silver.
You need to let cook for at least 20 hours before you notice any real differences.
Diamond is a non conductive material, so you do not run any risks regarding current circulating between the CPU and the heatsink or if some paste goes beyond the CPU.
IC Diamond 7 Carat costs half of what Arctic Silver MX-5 does, maybe because they do not have a strong brand name yet.
All the reviews I could find where very positive.
Maybe something you can try when you reapply thermal compound in 6 months, or a year.
I hope you find this helpful.
Again, I'm no expert, actuallly this is my first build, but I cannot help it and do a lot of tweaking so I'm kindda learning fast!
Cheers,
J

 

[LittleJay]

Thank you for your input guys! Much appreciated.

 

[Bungee18]

Coolermasters Hyper212 would be perfect, it's cheap, and it does what it is supposed to.

I second that! The Hyper 212+ or Hyper 212 Evo is THE best bang for the buck as far as coolers. I normally recommend a basic closed loop water cooling unit but as you don't play games or do any kind of OC'ing, there is no need. Even if you did want to do some OC'ing down the road, the Hyper 212 would be up to that task.

I just looked and Newegg has the Hyper 212+ on sale and has a mail in rebate......I'd snatch one up and put some good thermal paste on it and rock on----> Hyper 212+

Kelly,
Since you mentioned closed loop coolers, maybe you can help me make up my mind.
I'm trying to decide between an Antec H2o 620, an H70 core, an H80 and an H100.
I'm running an 8210 Oc'ed to 4300K and do play some demanding games.
My case comes prepared to install a 240 mm radiator, hence the H100 is an option, but I think it might be overkill and too noisy?
What about the button on the pump to set performance? Do you need to open the case and change all the time or you just set it to medium performance and just let it be?
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
J

 

[essenbe]

I never had a 212, but I had a similar cooler made by Cooler Master. There are a lot of opinions about the direct contact heat pipes, and most everyone has their preferences. On mine, I filled the gaps with paste and used wax paper to wipe it off, just filling in the holes, it's usually very porus between the pipes. Then I filled them again and smoothed it out, tying to level it with the pipes. I rubbed it off the pipes themselves very lightly until I could just begin to see the copper coming through and stopped there. Then tint the CPU. Put a layer of paste on the CPU and take a dry coffee filter and wipe it off. It will fill in the microscopic pores in the CPU but leave none on the surface. When you have it wiped off, you will notice it's a slightly different color. That's what you want. Then put the cooler on. That's what I did and it worked out well for me. You can Google Direct contact heat pipes and applying paste and get a lot f different opinions. Choose the one that suits you best, just understanding the oblect is to have a very thin layer on the cooler base and make good solid contact with the cpu and cooler base. The method I used got me better results than I was expecting, YMMV.