Solved Building a new computer, help/info needed!

Thought I'd post what I've gotten so far and possibly a few more questions and what not.

Currently my shopping list looks like this:
- Intel Core i5-3570K
- ASUS P8Z77-V LE Plus
- Corsair HX 750W PSU
- XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5

What memory modules I'll be choosing will be decided when I've got an answer to the question I posted earlier regarding speed and/vs. timings.

Also, a question regarding motherboard and RAM compatibility.
According to their website, the ASUS P8Z77-V LE Plus that I'm thinking of buying supports memory modules with the speed 1333MHz and 1600MHz. But they've also listed that it supports 1800, 1866, 2000, 2133, 2200, and 2400MHz, but these speeds have (O.C.) written behind them, does this mean that if i get 2400MHz memory modules that I have to set their speed to 2400MHz manually in BIOS or whatever?

I'll by the way be using a Corsair H100i to cool the CPU, and all the components will be going into a Corsair Carbide 500R cabinet that I'm currently using.

Well that's all I can think of for now, as always all answers and help are greatly appreciated.
Hopefully I'll be able to order my components tomorrow or the day after, saving me a few bucks because of sales and what not.


- Drops
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Yes the (OC) mean you will have to adjust your RAM settings, check GSkill out for a guide. G.SKILL TECH FORUM - View Single Post - How to enable XMP/ manually overclock G.SKILL memory with ASUS Z77 & Ivy Bridge
The CAS or CL, Column Access Strobe, is the time in milliseconds it takes for the RAM to read and return a value. Lower is better but the RAM frequency play a part too. A CL 9 1600 may give as good performance as CL 11 2400, I don't know the math to figure it though. :o

Don't put too much faith in ASUS's Qualified Vendor List for RAM, they can't test every RAM available and most any quality brand, GSkill, Corsair, Kingston, etc., will work.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
For the same speed ram, lower timings are better. Higher frequency ram will most of the time always have a higher CL, by necessity. I opt for higher frequency. However, I should point out that you will notice very little, if any at all, difference between anything over 1600MHz. Ram speed is not very noticable in actual use. I am running 2400MHz ram and cannot tell a difference between this ram and 1866 or 2133. It's just the enthusiast in me that makes me spend money I don't need to. But, to answer your question, if you have 2400MHz ram, you can run it at a slower frequency. You will usually have to change the timings to do it (usually lower them), but it will run lower.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
Don't put too much faith in ASUS's Qualified Vendor List for RAM, they can't test every RAM available and most any quality brand, GSkill, Corsair, Kingston, etc., will work.

And most of the time the ram on their QVL list can't be found anyway.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
I have an Asus motherboard and there is a overclocking utility in system bios that makes it easy to overclock the RAM. In my case, I have 8 gbs of Corsair 1600 Mhz RAM that will run at 1333 Mhz by default, so I have to change the setting in bios to run at 1600 Mhz.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Customized build from CyberPower
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP 1
CPU
Intel i5 2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Deluxe
Memory
8 gigabytes Corsair PC3-12800 DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 superclocked
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic 23" LCD
Screen Resolution
1980 x 1080
Hard Drives
120 Gb Samsung 840 Pro SSD
120 Gb Kingston Hyper X SSD
1 Tb WD Caviar Black HDD
PSU
Coolermaster 1000 watt modular
Case
Coolermaster HAF X full tower
Cooling
Coolermaster Hyper 212 plus
Keyboard
Logitech USB
Mouse
Microsoft 3 button
Internet Speed
download 1.5 Mb/sec upload 300Kb/sec
A further thought, some i5-3570K chips are better than others, the same with all CPUs. One 3570K may run RAM at 2400 easily, while another won't go beyond 2133. It depends on their binning and where on the original wafer it came from. Those nearer the center are better in general.

Your board choice will have the option for Manual or XMP Profile for overclocking. The XMP should set RAM at its specs.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
I was gonna buy a 650W power supply from Corsair which I believed would suit my needs just fine, but then I started looking at the XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5 which requires a 650W power supply, so I'm probably gonna end up with a 750W power supply from Corsair instead. The Corsair HX 750W PSU to be more precise, modular, 80 Plus Gold and all those kind of goodies.

I've also seen that many of the recent high-end graphics cards only require 500W, so I would assume that 750W would cover my future needs as well.

Appreciate your help essenbe, your post answered a lot for me, especially the whole GPU and PSU deal.


- Drops

The HX750 would be extremely excessive overkill. To power your system with one 7850 in it, all that is needed is a quality-made 400W power supply. Here's proof:

AMD Radeon HD 7850 and 7870 review - Hardware setup | Power consumption

With one 7850 under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 256W from the wall outlet. Their CPU was idling, so I have to add 150W for an overclocked 3570K at 5 GHz (I can prove it). So with the 7850 under full load at the same time as the overclocked 3570K, the PSU would then be pulling 406W from the wall outlet. This means that if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 406W from the wall outlet, then the system is pulling 345W from the PSU. This means a quality-made 400W power supply is way more than enough.

However, this is an unrealistic situation because to start with, this is a simultaneous maximum load between the 7850 and the 3570K. In addition to that, I'm talking about the 3570K being overclocked to 5 GHz which probably isn't going to happen on a board like the P8Z77-V LX. I'd expect about 4.5 to 4.7 GHz with that board. To top it all off, your actual gaming load would be closer to about 225 to 250W - maybe 275W. The 7850 does not pull that much power at all.

Finally, AMD recommends a 500W peak-rated power supply to power a system that has one 7850 in it:

AMD Radeon

Most 500W peak-rated PSUs have a continuous capacity that is closer to about 350 to 375W. I learned this during my 4+ years on Overclock.net (daily, 18+ hours per day - I know, I don't have a life). The kind of 400W power supplies I'm talking about are just as good as the HX750, and this means that the kind of 400W power supply I'm talking about can easily deliver 400W 24/7 if it were ever needed without breaking a sweat.

The HX750 can deliver 750W 24/7 without breaking a sweat, so it's a huge waste of money. As I said, if you never have more than one video card in your system, then a quality-made 450W power supply is all you'll ever need.

If you're worried about future upgrades, then don't: each new generation of CPUs and GPUs requires less power than the previous.

If you're worried about a PSU's degradation over time, then don't: quality-made PSUs like the ones we're talking about are not affected by this enough to even be considered because they use high quality internal components that are designed to last several years before degradation is really even noticed.

Then there's the matter of efficiency: with the tiny load that you'll always have on the HX750, you'd be lucky to see 80-85% efficiency. So no, you wouldn't get the Gold type of efficiency due to the small load on the PSU:

On PSU Efficiency
PSU "50% Load" Myth

There is one PSU that jumps out in my mind that you would be able to have for several years to come: the 450W SeaSonic G Series. Corsair used SeaSonic G Series units to make the newer Gold-rated HX series PSUs like the Gold-rated HX750. ;)

If that 450W number is still scary, then get the 550W SeaSonic G Series. Sure there are others I can recommend, but I'm just kind of throwing these out there for now.


Minor flaw actually? But yeah, I'm probably gonna end up with choosing the i7-3770K, despite that it might running hotter than what I'm expecting, not that I'm really expecting anything, but never the less, I'm sure I'll be one happy camper.

I don't mean to be advertising Overclock.net too much, but this is a thread that helps make it easier to understand:

[Official] Delidded Ivy Bridge Club
Not at all, I'm looking for information, so any links and what not are much appreciated regardless of what site it is.



Ah, I see. But a question regarding memory modules. I'm aware that lower CL values are better, like CL9(9-10-9) would be better than CL11(11-13-13), but what if you for an example have memory modules that run at 1866MHz with CL9(9-10-9) timings, while the memory modules that have CL11(11-13-13) timings run at 2400MHz, which would be better? To I prioritize CL timings over speed?

With this Samsung "Wonder RAM" that I'm recommending (it's a pet name enthusiasts have given it), this is less of a consideration because they use a smaller manufacturing process of 30nm and that makes them a bit faster.


Yeah I figured you were getting at that, but I think I'm gonna go with the Corsair HX 750W PSU, which should be pretty decent quality if I'm not mistaken.

Yeah, but I will keep saying the same thing: it's an unnecessary waste of money. Will you ever have more than one video card? The HX750 would be a good purchase if you plan on having 3 video cards some day, but not if you will only ever have just 1. For a one-card system, a quality-made 400-450W PSU is more than enough, even for "future upgrades".


P.S.(off topic)
As you guys might've noticed, I'm also a complete dingbat when it comes to forums and quoting others posts, so, mind sharing with me how I quote somebody else, BUT also containing information of who's post I'm quoting? 'Cause right now I had to do the @username before quoting so that people are able to keep track of who and what.

Use the two buttons on the bottom-right corner of each post. Treat the Multi button like checkboxes: each Multi button that you activate dictates which posts end up getting quoted. This enables you to reply to each Multi-quoted post in your post. It's like you're selecting each post.

Tip: The order in which you click each Multi button dictates the order in which they will appear in your post.

Tip #2: If you click the "Quote" button on the last post that you want to add, then you will be brought to the reply page with all of your Multi-quotes included with that Quoted post at the bottom. I hope this makes sense because I'm finding it hard to explain. lol :)
Hehe yeah it made sense, at least I think it did, I'm at least a little better suited at quoting other posts now, thanks!

Again thanks for the help, sincerely appreciate it!


- Drops

You're welcome!


Thought I'd post what I've gotten so far and possibly a few more questions and what not.

Currently my shopping list looks like this:
- Intel Core i5-3570K
- ASUS P8Z77-V LE Plus
- Corsair HX 750W PSU
- XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB GDDR5

What memory modules I'll be choosing will be decided when I've got an answer to the question I posted earlier regarding speed and/vs. timings.

Also, a question regarding motherboard and RAM compatibility.
According to their website, the ASUS P8Z77-V LE Plus that I'm thinking of buying supports memory modules with the speed 1333MHz and 1600MHz. But they've also listed that it supports 1800, 1866, 2000, 2133, 2200, and 2400MHz, but these speeds have (O.C.) written behind them, does this mean that if i get 2400MHz memory modules that I have to set their speed to 2400MHz manually in BIOS or whatever?

That's correct. As you know, the CPU natively supports DDR3-1333/1600. The motherboard extends this support, but it's above the CPU's native support so I guess it's technically an overclock. Fortunately, you shouldn't have to make any special changes just to get it to work like you would if you were trying to overclock the memory. I mean, everything can be at their stock values and it should work.


I'll by the way be using a Corsair H100i to cool the CPU, and all the components will be going into a Corsair Carbide 500R cabinet that I'm currently using.

Well that's all I can think of for now, as always all answers and help are greatly appreciated.
Hopefully I'll be able to order my components tomorrow or the day after, saving me a few bucks because of sales and what not.


- Drops

If you want to save a few more, then I sincerely recommend seriously considering what I said about the power supply. It will also matter in terms of the PSU's efficiency. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Seems like all has been covered and everything is on budget really as you can spend a great deal of money on the build.

Like has already been said depends on what you intend to do with it once up and running. But if you want my two cents worth don't scrimp - get the best you can even if it means you end up with a machine that is a bit overkill.

I did with my Sandy Bridge build and regretted it something rotten. My current Ivy B is just fine,and can still be built on without altering a lot of the already installed stuff like the board and CPU. For instance I find the HAF XM case with an i5 3750K on an Asus P8Z77-V board just about what suited me the rest (RAM, GPU etc) can be "played" with to a point :)

Except your next upgrade is going to need a new CPU + mobo because the 1155 socket is fading out.

Intel is fading out.
The company is planning to solder their CPU's to the motherboards coming 2014.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 professional X64
CPU
AMD A10-5800K OC@ 4.4Ghz.
Motherboard
Gigabyte F2A85X-UP4
Memory
8GB Kingston HyperX Blu 1333mhz
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD7870 2GB Core Edition
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer AL2216W
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 500gb 7200rpm
Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200rpm
PSU
Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W
Case
Thermaltake Commander MS-I
Cooling
Cooler Master N520
Mouse
Logitech M504
Internet Speed
10Mbps
Seems like all has been covered and everything is on budget really as you can spend a great deal of money on the build.

Like has already been said depends on what you intend to do with it once up and running. But if you want my two cents worth don't scrimp - get the best you can even if it means you end up with a machine that is a bit overkill.

I did with my Sandy Bridge build and regretted it something rotten. My current Ivy B is just fine,and can still be built on without altering a lot of the already installed stuff like the board and CPU. For instance I find the HAF XM case with an i5 3750K on an Asus P8Z77-V board just about what suited me the rest (RAM, GPU etc) can be "played" with to a point :)

Except your next upgrade is going to need a new CPU + mobo because the 1155 socket is fading out.

Intel is fading out.
The company is planning to solder their CPU's to the motherboards coming 2014.

Yeah, and there's no telling what will happen after that. AMD said that they will continue offering socketed CPUs, so I expect AMD to become the new CPU giant once Intel has reached their planned point where they're no longer offering LGA CPUs.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Yes the (OC) mean you will have to adjust your RAM settings, check GSkill out for a guide. G.SKILL TECH FORUM - View Single Post - How to enable XMP/ manually overclock G.SKILL memory with ASUS Z77 & Ivy Bridge
The CAS or CL, Column Access Strobe, is the time in milliseconds it takes for the RAM to read and return a value. Lower is better but the RAM frequency play a part too. A CL 9 1600 may give as good performance as CL 11 2400, I don't know the math to figure it though. :o

Don't put too much faith in ASUS's Qualified Vendor List for RAM, they can't test every RAM available and most any quality brand, GSkill, Corsair, Kingston, etc., will work.
Okay, seems pretty much straightforward, even I might be able to get that working, thanks for the info!


I am running 2400MHz ram and cannot tell a difference between this ram and 1866 or 2133. It's just the enthusiast in me that makes me spend money I don't need to.
Hehe I can definitely identify myself with that, though I must admit that this time around I've been pretty decent when it comes to not going overboard.


I have an Asus motherboard and there is a overclocking utility in system bios that makes it easy to overclock the RAM. In my case, I have 8 gbs of Corsair 1600 Mhz RAM that will run at 1333 Mhz by default, so I have to change the setting in bios to run at 1600 Mhz.
Yeah I checked out a link that Britton30 posted and it seems easy enough, I'm sure I'll be able to work it out, thanks for posting!


- Drops
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Oh man, a build thread that I missed! I'm slacking lol. I read/skimmed through most of this thread and found there's not much I can add to it. Is there anything you are still on the fence about?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Oh man, a build thread that I missed! I'm slacking lol. I read/skimmed through most of this thread and found there's not much I can add to it. Is there anything you are still on the fence about?
Hehe no worries, better late than never right?
Well I think I'm pretty much set really, can't think of anything at the moment that I need answered, though in the near future when I've assembled everything I might need some advice regarding overclocking and various software, but I'm not worried about that right now.

The only thing I really gotta do now is go through TwoCables latest post, the long one regarding the choice of PSU, he's making me really doubt my decisions hehe. But he seems like he really knows what he's talking about, so I'll have to read through his post and have another look at power supplies.

But thanks for offering your help, I'll be sure to make a post if anything comes up.


- Drops
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Are you still going with the 7850 graphics card?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Are you still going with the 7850 graphics card?
I believe that I am. Any particular reason as to why you ask?
Do you have any other suggestions perhaps?


- Drops
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Just wanting to get an idea of what kind of PSU's you need to be looking at. It recommends at least a 500 watt PSU for that card, which is no problem. What is your budget for a PSU?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Just wanting to get an idea of what kind of PSU's you need to be looking at. It recommends at least a 500 watt PSU for that card, which is no problem. What is your budget for a PSU?

The 500W power supplies they are referring to are peak-rated. Most 500W peak-rated PSUs have a continuous capacity of about 350-375W (it varies from PSU to PSU). These kind of PSUs are always low-quality units. The kind of PSUs we're looking at - such as the HX750 that he's looking at - are quality-made continuous-rated units. This means the HX750 can easily deliver 750W 24/7 if it's ever needed.

A quality-made 450W power supply is the kind where it can deliver 450W 24/7 if it's ever needed. This would be overkill for powering a system that has one 7850 in it.

The general rule of thumb is, subtract 100W from the recommendation. So, a 400W quality-made power supply would be more than enough.

Here's proof (it's a copy/paste from my bigger post above with minor changes to fit this reply better):

AMD Radeon HD 7850 and 7870 review - Hardware setup | Power consumption

With one 7850 under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 256W from the wall outlet. Their CPU was idling, so I have to add 150W for an overclocked 3570K at 5 GHz (I can prove it). So with the 7850 under full load at the same time as the overclocked 3570K, the PSU would then be pulling 406W from the wall outlet. This means that if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 406W from the wall outlet, then the system is pulling 345W from the PSU. This means a quality-made 400W power supply is way more than enough, and this is why AMD recommends a 500W peak-rated PSU.

However, this is an unrealistic situation because to start with, this is a simultaneous maximum load between the 7850 and the 3570K. In addition to that, I'm talking about the 3570K being overclocked to 5 GHz which probably isn't going to happen on a board like the P8Z77-V LX. I'd expect about 4.5 to 4.7 GHz with that board. To top it all off, the actual gaming load would be closer to about 225 to 250W - maybe 275W. The 7850 does not pull that much power at all.

If you're worried about future upgrades, then don't: each new generation of CPUs and GPUs requires less power than the previous.

If you're worried about a PSU's degradation over time, then don't: quality-made PSUs like the ones we're talking about are not affected by this enough to even be considered because they use high quality internal components that are designed to last several years before degradation is really even noticed.

Then there's the matter of efficiency: with the tiny load that he would always have on the HX750, he'd be lucky to see 80-85% efficiency. So he wouldn't get the Gold type of efficiency due to the small load on the PSU:

On PSU Efficiency
PSU "50% Load" Myth

There is one PSU that jumps out in my mind that he would be able to have for several years to come: the 450W SeaSonic G Series. Corsair used SeaSonic G Series units to make the newer Gold-rated HX series PSUs like the Gold-rated HX750. ;)

If that 450W number is still scary, then there's the 550W SeaSonic G Series. Sure there are others I can recommend, but I'm just kind of throwing these out there for now.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Well, I will give you my recommendations, which are also what several forum members will recommend........Corsair or Seasonic. Probably the best on the market as of now, and both are actually made by Seasonic USA. The Corsair AX750 is a top-notch PSU, fully modular, 750 watts, 80+ Gold, and comes with some of the best factory cables I've ever seen. The SeaSonic X750 Gold is basically identical to the Corsair AX750, except the cables aren't quite as "custom" looking. They are all made quite well, but the Corsair cables are all black, with some sleeving on them, which looks really nice. The SeaSonic uses multi-colored wiring, and also has some black sleeving, but isn't quite as nice looking as the Corsair. I have the SeaSonic X750 and what part of the cable you can see doesn't look bad at all. Of course, that may not even bother you. Either of those will do more than you need but will last you for years.

Edit: I wasn't suggesting a 500 watt power supply....just that since it required only 500 watts, it should be easy to find one. I'm well versed on good power supplies and bad power supplies.;) Also, you may notice that the higher wattage power supplies, which are the more popular ones, are on sale more often, and sometimes are actually less expensive than a lower watt unit. True, he could get away with a 450-500 watt, but if he ever wants to throw in another graphics card, the extra power from a 650/750 watt PSU will be there.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Oh, there's more than Corsair and SeaSonic:

FAQ: Recommended Power Supplies

They're just 2 options among many.

You are right, there are a slew of good power supplies out there. For reliability, price, performance and features, Corsair and SeaSonic are probably the best out there.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
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