Computer locks up during certain games, event viewer included

[MajorFoley]

You can test for overheating from the Troubleshooting Steps for Windows 7.

Once you clear that then you try another video card. You can also try stressing your video card with FurMark: VGA Stress Test to see if it withstands it.

How can i test for overheating with coretemp when i cannot see the results when the lockup occurs while playing games that cause it?

 

[gregrocker]

This would be to monitor temps at all times from System Tray.

Check also the logs and System Resources for other clues from Troubleshooting Steps for Windows 7.

By the time most work through the steps the problem's cause will be found one way or the other.

 

[MajorFoley]

This would be to monitor temps at all times from System Tray.

Check also the logs and System Resources for other clues from Troubleshooting Steps for Windows 7.

By the time most work through the steps the problem's cause will be found one way or the other.

Just did furmark, using my resolution of 1920x1080 and the maximum anti aliasing i could do 8x MSAA my GPU reached a peak of 73 degrees C and stayed around there, going at 8 fps
my friend is also recommending me to do the same for CPU using prime95 and stressing the cpu.

 

[gregrocker]

That was going to be my next suggestion.

 

[MajorFoley]

That was going to be my next suggestion.

Well here are the results, no crashes seem to have occured

 

[gregrocker]

I only skimmed back through the thread but am wondering if you have tried the new install on SSD with all other HD's unplugged, to test if the problem then occurs.

If not add back the other HD's one at a time after confirming each does not cause the problem.

Are you using the same cables for the new drive that were used on the old one which caused the same prob?

Please post another screenshot of Disk Management - Post a Screen Capture Image

 

[MajorFoley]

I only skimmed back through the thread but am wondering if you have tried the new install on SSD with all other HD's unplugged, to test if the problem then occurs.

If not add back the other HD's one at a time after confirming each does not cause the problem.

Are you using the same cables for the new drive that were used on the old one which caused the same prob?

Please post another screenshot of Disk Management - Post a Screen Capture Image

I had at the time of testing all hard drives, except the one with the old OS plugged in, and the same error occured. about 15 minutes into a game of company of heroes the computer locked up. Im currently not using my SSD since it hasn't solved the problem and until i do i won't be using it. I have also just confirmed that when i ran both prime95 and furmark the computer locked up about 5-10 minutes in

 

[ICIT2LOL]

My 2 cents worth and like Greg have only skimmed through the thread but I would return to the PSU and try this even if just to eliminate it.

PSU TESTING

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/86648-psu-jump-start.html

Test the sockets and leads with a digital multimeter NOT an analogue one because an analogue one injects 9v into a circuitwhich I am sure will know will do no good the board!!

Something like this is ideal http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1TX0K36453

Anothergood ref http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/301799-psu-test-dc-output-voltage.html

Plus when testing place the blacklead to the case or one of the board fixing screws try not to use the blacks inthe 24 socket - you can but the other site are for more reliable forpreciseness. In fact you can get crocodile clips to fit the black probe toattach and forget leaving one hand free



Now you have to remember of coursecorrect volts does not always mean correct current.

Think of it as a car with a flatbattery it may test perfect at 12 - 13v but try and crank the engine it may dothat but leave no available current for the ignition and other essentialcircuits.

To test though you will need afairly good ammeter and run a known current draw though it however these areusually expensive pieces of equipment and is not really THAT necessary. .

Use this for volts refs and theyneed to be within 5% of the stated voltage - see text in this

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-2.html

Now I know that maybe the PSU might be new but doesn't mean it is running properly as with anything just one small part going south as in new cars could be the problem.
Just for info I just bought one of these and it is a real helpful gadget and it takes the reading direct from the source - that is when you can get near it of course.

NON Contact LCD IR Digital Infrared Thermometer Temperature With Laser GUN Point | eBay

 

[gregrocker]

I'm curious why testing the PSU requires jumpstarting the PSU which looks extremely dangerous.

Isn't testing sufficient?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

I'm curious why testing the PSU requires jumpstarting the PSU which looks extremely dangerous.

Isn't testing sufficient?

No Greg the jump start is very safe only dismantling the PSU itself is dangerous and then only if that is done by either someone who doesn't know what they are looking for and if it has been running very recently. Usually unplugging the machine and powering on drains those large caps in the PSU.

It is just a matter of testing the sockets and leads to the board with a meter so it only involves volts up to a very max 12-13v and if it is that then there is something very wrong if you look at the tolerances given for those volts used in the machine. Now you can pull the 24 pin out and test or leave in situ I leave in situ and use the board as the negative (ground) point (board fixing screws) (black lead) and run the red lead into the back of the power pins. It is just a matter of seeing if the volts are within 5% + / - of the stated volts on the different coloured leads.
In fact you would need to put your tongue on the back of the 24 pin to get any effect and well I suppose there would be those who would try that but at worst it would just be very unpleasant (and a little moronic) LOL!!

It takes very little time to do the only thing is you must not use an analogue meter as it injects (usually 9volts) into a system to get the readings so you must use a digital meter.

But if you think it isn't worth the try then it really makes no odds to me as I said it would just take that possibility of the PSU being or going bad especially under load as Scott Mueller has quoted time and again that problems with PSU's are vastly underrated when a machine is not going properly.

 

[MajorFoley]

I'm curious why testing the PSU requires jumpstarting the PSU which looks extremely dangerous.

Isn't testing sufficient?

I don't even know where to begin testing the PSU
I rang a comp shop thats about 20 min away, they think it could be CPU thermal paste (i don't see how) my graphics card or motherboard. Right now im replacing my 6950 with an old 450 gts i had and gonna run the tests again, if it happens again then i am sure this will eliminate the possibility that it is the graphics card, leaving 2 options. The motherboard or the PSU

 

[MajorFoley]

I'm curious why testing the PSU requires jumpstarting the PSU which looks extremely dangerous.

Isn't testing sufficient?

No Greg the jump start is very safe only dismantling the PSU itself is dangerous and then only if that is done by either someone who doesn't know what they are looking for and if it has been running very recently. Usually unplugging the machine and powering on drains those large caps in the PSU.

It is just a matter of testing the sockets and leads to the board with a meter so it only involves volts up to a very max 12-13v and if it is that then there is something very wrong if you look at the tolerances given for those volts used in the machine. Now you can pull the 24 pin out and test or leave in situ I leave in situ and use the board as the negative (ground) point (board fixing screws) (black lead) and run the red lead into the back of the power pins. It is just a matter of seeing if the volts are within 5% + / - of the stated volts on the different coloured leads.
In fact you would need to put your tongue on the back of the 24 pin to get any effect and well I suppose there would be those who would try that but at worst it would just be very unpleasant (and a little moronic) LOL!!

It takes very little time to do the only thing is you must not use an analogue meter as it injects (usually 9volts) into a system to get the readings so you must use a digital meter.

But if you think it isn't worth the try then it really makes no odds to me as I said it would just take that possibility of the PSU being or going bad especially under load as Scott Mueller has quoted time and again that problems with PSU's are vastly underrated when a machine is not going properly.

I have never used one of these things, where could i get one? and how would i use it on the power supply (im guessing i would also leave the power supply unplugged while i did this)

 

[Britton30]

I don't even know where to begin testing the PSU
I rang a comp shop thats about 20 min away, they think it could be CPU thermal paste (i don't see how) my graphics card or motherboard. Right now im replacing my 6950 with an old 450 gts i had and gonna run the tests again, if it happens again then i am sure this will eliminate the possibility that it is the graphics card, leaving 2 options. The motherboard or the PSU

Links are in post #48, the blue underlined text will open a tutorial.

To show volts and much more, download and install HWinfo for your 32 bit or 64 bit system.
HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download

Scroll down to the green "Download Installer" button.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No you would leave the power hooked up and instead of the paper clip if that is bothering you see this XSPC 24pin ATX Bridge Tool [5060175581327] - $2.00 : PC Case Gear

If you are in doubt then don't worry mate I am just saying that the PSU itself you should not attempt to take out and especially take apart if you do not know what you are doing. Otherwise you are only dealing with a very top voltage of +12 volts and I ma sure you may have touched a car battery's terminals at some time in your life and unless one is very stupid and say soaks their hands in brine for a few hours before doing that then they would have to be a moron and the worst thing that they would feel would probably be just a tingling sensation if that!

The multimeter mate you can pick up at Dick Smiths or any electronic outlet for just a few dollars you don't need anything elaborate say $10 or something, maybe even somewhere like Big W.
See Mini Digital Multimeter - Jaycar Electronics but DO NOT get the type in the pic

There is also this but it is really for people like me who do a fair bit with machines from time to time EZ Power Supply Tester with Voltage LCD Display [PS-TST3] - $25.00 : PC Case Gear

 

[MajorFoley]

I don't even know where to begin testing the PSU
I rang a comp shop thats about 20 min away, they think it could be CPU thermal paste (i don't see how) my graphics card or motherboard. Right now im replacing my 6950 with an old 450 gts i had and gonna run the tests again, if it happens again then i am sure this will eliminate the possibility that it is the graphics card, leaving 2 options. The motherboard or the PSU

Links are in post #48, the blue underlined text will open a tutorial.

To show volts and much more, download and install HWinfo for your 32 bit or 64 bit system.
HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download

Scroll down to the green "Download Installer" button.

Ok and with HWinfo, what would i do? i dunno if i like the idea of jump starting it. My power supply is under warranty for another 10 months, thank god for 3 year warranty. The problem is the comp store i ordered from is like an hour drive and i hate going over bridges! so i might take it to them.
Also i just noticed something i keep hearing a little... well its not exactly a beep but its something like if a disc is quickly stopping and starting.

 

[Britton30]

Ok and with HWinfo, what would i do? i dunno if i like the idea of jump starting it. My power supply is under warranty for another 10 months, thank god for 3 year warranty. The problem is the comp store i ordered from is like an hour drive and i hate going over bridges! so i might take it to them.
Also i just noticed something i keep hearing a little... well its not exactly a beep but its something like if a disc is quickly stopping and starting.

No need to jump start, if the PC powers on we know it "works". HWinfo will tell you if the volts are correct, without them the current is irrelevant.
Download as instructed, run the program with Sensors Only checked, scroll down the window that opens to find.....

 

[MajorFoley]

Ok and with HWinfo, what would i do? i dunno if i like the idea of jump starting it. My power supply is under warranty for another 10 months, thank god for 3 year warranty. The problem is the comp store i ordered from is like an hour drive and i hate going over bridges! so i might take it to them.
Also i just noticed something i keep hearing a little... well its not exactly a beep but its something like if a disc is quickly stopping and starting.

No need to jump start, if the PC powers on we know it "works". HWinfo will tell you if the volts are correct, without them the current is irrelevant.
Download as instructed, run the program with Sensors Only checked, scroll down the window that opens to find.....

View attachment 304654

Well, i got mine i guess

 

[Britton30]

That looks good for output. Now try running a game and watch the voltages to see if the +12V drops lower than 11.4

 

[MajorFoley]

That looks good for output. Now try running a game and watch the voltages to see if the +12V drops lower than 11.4

You mean i should run a game that normally causes the computer to lock up? Also how can i accurately see the voltage if i have to keep alt tabbing, doesnt seem exactly efficient? Does it keep logs?

 

[Britton30]

Yes, see the Logging Start button? Hopefully it will save a log if it locks up. The other alternative is to hook up a digital volt meter as has been described.