GTX260 Video Artifacting/BSODs

[TVeblen]

He is referring to the fact that AMD bought ATI in 2006. Urban rumor is that an AMD system will only run correctly with an ATI video card. I find it very hard to believe that they would deliberately cut out half their market, but stranger things have happened.

You are down to 2 possible problem components: video card or power supply. I suppose you could throw in the motherboard/processor/chipset too, but that's pretty far fetched.

 

[Shook]

He is referring to the fact that AMD bought ATI in 2006. Urban rumor is that an AMD system will only run correctly with an ATI video card. I find it very hard to believe that they would deliberately cut out half their market, but stranger things have happened.

You are down to 2 possible problem components: video card or power supply. I suppose you could throw in the motherboard/processor/chipset too, but that's pretty far fetched.

Yea thats what he meant. I find it hard to believe as well, I personally know many people using AMD boards with ATI chipsets running nVidia card with NO PROBLEMS whatsoever.

Boy am I hoping that when I get this new card back it works flawlessly. If not then I'm picking up a 750W Corsair PSU with single 60A 12V rail.

 

[sinbin]

I'm pretty sure your card is overheating or its not getting enough power. Try taking the card out, getting a can of compressed air and blowing the dust out of it, then placing it back in. If that doesn't work, try unplugging everything from the PSU not needed for the system to boot (optical drives), extra hard drives, fans, etc. These steps can help narrow down the issue.

When I was with Velocity Micro this error was 9 times out of 10 caused by a overheating /failing video card.

I've tried unplugging everything from the PSU except for the 2 mobo plugs and video card and i left 2 fans plugged in. Same problems. Video card is in the mail as we speak being sent to BFG for an RMA.

Funny thing is the tech i talked to said he thinks i'll get my card and have the same problem........... his reasoning.......... because I have an AMD motherboard............

Sweet i rma my 8800 gtx gpu and got a gtx 260 as a replacement the irony

 

[Shook]

WELL, I finally got my card back from the RMA department at BFG.
Uninstalled my ATI drivers for my onboard graphics, used Driver Sweeper as well.
Installed Vid card, installed drivers.
Played 1 map of CoD:MW2 with no problems. Go to map 2 and BOOM.
SAME EXACT problems as before. Now im lost..... HELP?!

 

[Frostmourne]

Try resetting the CMOS.

 

[Shook]

Try resetting the CMOS.

Resetting the CMOS? You mean like loading the Defaults in BIOS?
I just ran KILL DISK and wiped my hard drive clean. I was worried that the ATI drivers I was using for the on board weren't being completely removed, even using Driver Sweeper multiple times. Loading up my steam back up of my games and am gonna give it a go with nothing installed except my Win7 and steam/vid card drivers

 

[TVeblen]

SAME EXACT problems as before.

Sorry to hear that Shook. Yours is a very difficult problem, not simple like everyone was hoping.

You don't want to hear this, but provided that you systematically checked all of the usual issues and eliminated those as possibilities, and that the replacement parts you installed are not also defective (rare, but possible), that leaves you squarely on the motherboard. Yes that means you may have a defective motherboard. The good news is that some defects are just poor settings. I would go to the Gigabyte website (or NewEgg) and read the reviews of your board. You want to know if this is a common issue with that board. For instance, the GA-EP45-UD3L board has a know issue with the onboard LAN and Gigabyte offers a work-around (I am told). I think you would also want to recheck all your previous diagnostics - do them again - real careful.

Resetting the CMOS would be a first step in checking that the MB's settings are not bad. Older MBs had CMOS RAM that was powered by a small battery which could be removed to reset the CMOS. Modern MBs use EEPROM (flash) memory that is physically reset by using a reset jumper or reset switch on the MB. Removing the battery on a modern board only resets the real time clock. But resetting the BIOS is a sure way to purge any bad settings from the BIOS.

If you are going to the trouble of reinstalling W7 anyway, then I would want to be sure that all my BIOS settings were correct, but that would be the time to update the BIOS to the most current version. Also a good time to check your build. Double and triple check all the connections. Also pay close attention to the MB installation: look at the mounting pattern and check for any possible shorts to the mounting stands or case.

Random Ideas - MB related - to try at your own risk:
Try the video card in another PCIe slot if you have one (is the PCIe slot good?).
I just read this this morning, and I doubt this would happen with Gigabyte, but is the PCIe slot "fully wired'? Some boards cheat here and you don't get full bandwidth.
Run with only one stick of memory (Northbridge test).
Disconnect all uneeded peripherals, USB devices (Southbridge test).
*Increase the voltages. WARNING! I have read in another post by one person that they got system stability by slightly increasing the voltage to the memory past spec. I'm guessing that this would overcome some deficiency on the board. Do not do this until you have read up on overclocking and are comfortable with it.

But in any case I would carefully perform every hardware diagnostic again and double check my BIOS settings before reinstalling the OS.

Good Luck.

 

[Shook]

SAME EXACT problems as before.

Sorry to hear that Shook. Yours is a very difficult problem, not simple like everyone was hoping.

You don't want to hear this, but provided that you systematically checked all of the usual issues and eliminated those as possibilities, and that the replacement parts you installed are not also defective (rare, but possible), that leaves you squarely on the motherboard. Yes that means you may have a defective motherboard. The good news is that some defects are just poor settings. I would go to the Gigabyte website (or NewEgg) and read the reviews of your board. You want to know if this is a common issue with that board. For instance, the GA-EP45-UD3L board has a know issue with the onboard LAN and Gigabyte offers a work-around (I am told). I think you would also want to recheck all your previous diagnostics - do them again - real careful.

Resetting the CMOS would be a first step in checking that the MB's settings are not bad. Older MBs had CMOS RAM that was powered by a small battery which could be removed to reset the CMOS. Modern MBs use EEPROM (flash) memory that is physically reset by using a reset jumper or reset switch on the MB. Removing the battery on a modern board only resets the real time clock. But resetting the BIOS is a sure way to purge any bad settings from the BIOS.

If you are going to the trouble of reinstalling W7 anyway, then I would want to be sure that all my BIOS settings were correct, but that would be the time to update the BIOS to the most current version. Also a good time to check your build. Double and triple check all the connections. Also pay close attention to the MB installation: look at the mounting pattern and check for any possible shorts to the mounting stands or case.

Random Ideas - MB related - to try at your own risk:
Try the video card in another PCIe slot if you have one (is the PCIe slot good?).
I just read this this morning, and I doubt this would happen with Gigabyte, but is the PCIe slot "fully wired'? Some boards cheat here and you don't get full bandwidth.
Run with only one stick of memory (Northbridge test).
Disconnect all uneeded peripherals, USB devices (Southbridge test).
*Increase the voltages. WARNING! I have read in another post by one person that they got system stability by slightly increasing the voltage to the memory past spec. I'm guessing that this would overcome some deficiency on the board. Do not do this until you have read up on overclocking and are comfortable with it.

But in any case I would carefully perform every hardware diagnostic again and double check my BIOS settings before reinstalling the OS.

Good Luck.

Thanks for the info TVeblen, I did reset the CMOS using a paper clip. I also took my entire build apart, including CPU, and just basically rebuilt it from scratch. Put my vid card in the PCIe 8x slot, and am also running a fresh install of 7. Now the weird thing im running into, If i play CoDMW2, and i turn all the video settings to LOW and turn off all the AA and extra jazz, it seems to do pretty good, aside from not looking as good. And i was actually able to turn everything to HIGH for a little while before running into the problems again.

I'm getting fed up with this problem. Thinking about ordering a new motherboard, this time of the nvidia chipset flavor...
Newegg.com - MSI NF980-G65 AM3 NVIDIA nForce 980a SLI HDMI ATX AMD Motherboard - AMD Motherboards
Think that would solve my problem? Or you thinking it the PSU?

 

[Zepher]

If you have a best buy near you, grab this PSU and test your system with it,
Antec - EarthWatts 650-Watt ATX CPU Power Supply - EA 650

I know for a fact that this PSU will run your machine since I ran one for 20 days while I rma'd my Antec Trio 650, and my machine is loaded with parts, 8 hard drives, DVD-RW, SB Card, GTX 285, 4 case fans, 4x2GB sticks of ram.

 

[TVeblen]

I hate to see you just buying parts to try. That is an expensive form of diagnostics. Keep in mind that servicing a computer while not being on site is difficult, if not ridiculous. I am not at all sure that you need a motherboard, or a power supply, or a video card. It would be nice if you could eliminate one or more of these as a cause.

Are you still running with that Rosewill power supply? I thought you said a while back that you replaced it, but I don't remember.

But let's look at some facts: If you run the game at it's lowest settings and turn off all of Window's 3D eye candy the problem goes away? That is a clue. That means that your system can handle standard graphics, but anytime you ask for some horsepower it can't do it.

Try some tests:
Assuming the card is back in the x16 PCIe slot and you have clean installed the latest WHQL drivers: try this:

Go to Programs > Games and open Chess Masters. Does the video crash opening a Windows 3D game? Try it with a non-Aero desktop and with.

Run the Windows Experience rating. This tests the video card through all the gaming stuff. Does it crash or show the TDR?

Unplug all the equipment you don't immediately need: DVD drive, all USB devices, case lights. Disable the LAN and Sound devices. Basically power down everything you don't need to run the computer and then try to recreate a crash.

Try and think of anything else you could do to test the system to try and isolate the cause.
HTH

 

[Frostmourne]

Stress test the GPU too. Furmark should do it. I would never go for an Nvidia chipset - choose a chipset from the CPU manufacturer's. As for the PSU, a Corsair HX-650 is great or an Antec TP-550.

 

[Shook]

If you have a best buy near you, grab this PSU and test your system with it,
Antec - EarthWatts 650-Watt ATX CPU Power Supply - EA 650

I know for a fact that this PSU will run your machine since I ran one for 20 days while I rma'd my Antec Trio 650, and my machine is loaded with parts, 8 hard drives, DVD-RW, SB Card, GTX 285, 4 case fans, 4x2GB sticks of ram.

I do have a BestBuy here. Do you know their policy on returning power supplies? Had thought of this before

 

[Shook]

I hate to see you just buying parts to try. That is an expensive form of diagnostics. Keep in mind that servicing a computer while not being on site is difficult, if not ridiculous. I am not at all sure that you need a motherboard, or a power supply, or a video card. It would be nice if you could eliminate one or more of these as a cause.

Are you still running with that Rosewill power supply? I thought you said a while back that you replaced it, but I don't remember.

But let's look at some facts: If you run the game at it's lowest settings and turn off all of Window's 3D eye candy the problem goes away? That is a clue. That means that your system can handle standard graphics, but anytime you ask for some horsepower it can't do it.

Try some tests:
Assuming the card is back in the x16 PCIe slot and you have clean installed the latest WHQL drivers: try this:

Go to Programs > Games and open Chess Masters. Does the video crash opening a Windows 3D game? Try it with a non-Aero desktop and with.

Run the Windows Experience rating. This tests the video card through all the gaming stuff. Does it crash or show the TDR?

Unplug all the equipment you don't immediately need: DVD drive, all USB devices, case lights. Disable the LAN and Sound devices. Basically power down everything you don't need to run the computer and then try to recreate a crash.

Try and think of anything else you could do to test the system to try and isolate the cause.
HTH

Yea i'm still running the Rosewill PSU. Will try the windows games and re-do the experience rating.

 

[TVeblen]

Rosewill is not known for high quality parts. They are a re-brander. They are known for decent quality at a low price. The power supply is one part that I would not skimp on. It has to work perfectly. I would replace that before anything else.
The consensus in the builders forums for high quality power supplies is Seasonic, Corsair, and Thermaltake. Antec can sell a good supply, but they don't make em either. For a while they had Seasonic making their supplies, now they use others.
For your rig I would only start at 650W. If you can get a larger one on sale for the same money, I'd do it.

 

[thefabe]

If you still have the Best Buy receipt it should tell you their return policy in the back of it. Fabe

 

[Shook]

If you still have the Best Buy receipt it should tell you their return policy in the back of it. Fabe

thanks there fabe, but I didnt go and buy one from bestbuy, was wondering their policy before i do that....

 

[Shook]

Rosewill is not known for high quality parts. They are a re-brander. They are known for decent quality at a low price. The power supply is one part that I would not skimp on. It has to work perfectly. I would replace that before anything else.
The consensus in the builders forums for high quality power supplies is Seasonic, Corsair, and Thermaltake. Antec can sell a good supply, but they don't make em either. For a while they had Seasonic making their supplies, now they use others.
For your rig I would only start at 650W. If you can get a larger one on sale for the same money, I'd do it.

Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Power Supplies
What ya think of that one? I had been lookin at the 750Watt corsair but that 650 looks pretty good

 

[Frostmourne]

Rosewill is not known for high quality parts. They are a re-brander. They are known for decent quality at a low price. The power supply is one part that I would not skimp on. It has to work perfectly. I would replace that before anything else.
The consensus in the builders forums for high quality power supplies is Seasonic, Corsair, and Thermaltake. Antec can sell a good supply, but they don't make em either. For a while they had Seasonic making their supplies, now they use others.
For your rig I would only start at 650W. If you can get a larger one on sale for the same money, I'd do it.

Newegg.com - CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Power Supplies
What ya think of that one? I had been lookin at the 750Watt corsair but that 650 looks pretty good

That isn't modular, making it harder to cable. Otherwise, if it has the right amount of cables for what you need, buy it. I would prefer the HX due to modularity.

 

[Shook]

WELL, Went to BestBuy picked up the Corsair 750Watt PSU with the single 60A 12V Rail... put it in and.... still doing the exact same thing.... Im at a loss...


Could I have gotten 2 bad Vid Cards?!?

 

[Frostmourne]

WELL, Went to BestBuy picked up the Corsair 750Watt PSU with the single 60A 12V Rail... put it in and.... still doing the exact same thing.... Im at a loss...


Could I have gotten 2 bad Vid Cards?!?

Take out 1 RAM stick, all video cards, enable the onboard GPU, and make sure the HDD is on the SATA 1 port. Disable the DVD burner too. Triple check all cables are fully seated. I have probably said this, but I have the same board and its great - especially the heatpipes.