BSODs on startup or in games.

[MKK555]

Hello, my computer had been running fine for a few months and then I started getting BSODs or other crashes if I played games for too long or if I tried to startup again from sleep mode a few weeks ago. Since yesterday afternoon the BSODs started happening every few minutes playing games instead of multiple hours apart (sometimes I can be in games for close to an hour before a crash, sometimes it happens near instantly). I didnt install or update anything in that time.

If my computer crashes once it will begin failing to boot up at varying times with freezes or BSODs. It might get to windows but it will BSOD in under 5 minutes and the way I "fix" the problem is by unplugging and putting back in the PSU-MOBO connection. This will almost guarantee a successful launch of windows though it still might crash once it gets there. If my computer hasn't crashed and I restart the computer it will load windows fine.

Right now I'm posting this from my computer and have a youtube video playing on my other monitor and it will likely stay stable like this for many hours, but if I start up a game it will almost certainly give me a BSOD or forced restart in under 10 minutes. It does still freeze or BSOD outside of games, but generally it either does that within 10 minutes of windows starting or it doesn't happen at all.

My graphics drivers are up to date and I reinstalled windows on a separate working harddrive last week. I've ran chkdsk, sfc scannow, and memtest with no problems.

Thank you for reading and zip file is attached.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hello and welcome MKK555 mate now first please follow this and complete
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Calibri, serif]Mate can we have some system specs please as what you have posted gives us not that much to work with and given there are so many manufacturers of components and configurations that do influence what goes on within any given machine and OS.
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[FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Calibri, serif]Compare it to having to deal with a car and not know if it is petrol driven one or diesel
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[FONT=Times New Roman, serif]System Info - See Your System Specs[/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman, serif][FONT=Calibri, serif](pre typed to save time)
[/FONT][/FONT]
Now one other thing you said you tested the memory can you let us know just what with as we only recommend one method see this
RAM - Test with Memtest86+ - Windows 7 Help Forums
But one thing is very important you must let the test run for at least 8 passes any less and the findings are no good, and you may as well not bother doing it at all. Now if errors come up straight away then you can stop it - see my pics. With more than two sticks the process is even longer as one may realize.
It is a very lengthy and tedious process but worth it if you have errors.
Because of this

[COLOR=Red]MEMORY_MANAGEMENT (1a)[/COLOR]
    # Any other values for parameter 1 must be individually examined.
Arguments:
Arg1: 0000000000041790, A page table page has been corrupted. On a 64 bit OS, parameter 2
    contains the address of the PFN for the corrupted page table page.
    On a 32 bit OS, parameter 2 contains a pointer to the number of used
    PTEs, and parameter 3 contains the number of used PTEs.
Arg2: fffffa8000cbae70
Arg3: 000000000000ffff
Arg4: 0000000000000000

 

[MKK555]

Hey sorry i thought the zip had the specs.

It's an asus m4a785td-m EVO motherboard, GTX 460 GPU, amd phenom iix4 960T CPU, antec 380w green PSU, 4 sticks of 2gb corsair ram, and seagate barracuda 1tb drive.

the harddrive is pretty new, the GPU is an old card but was sitting mostly idle until i put it into this computer a few months ago, the CPU is about 3 years old and the MOBO/PSU about 6.

As for the memory test yeah i ran memtestx86+ for 8 passes via a usb stick.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok yep well many like myself like to open that small box down at bottom left which displays the specs as a very easy to find stuff reference and can copy say a GPU card model and paste it in a new tab to find the drivers etc. It saves having to wade through heaps of files to find just what gear you have.


But having said that if the memtest was the same as the one I linked then we can eliminate RAM from the problem though it still leaves me wondering why it is still showing up. I would try reseating it at very minimum as it could be just a cruddy connection. I think it might b e an idea to run the memtest again anyway just to be doubly sure because of the dump file reference to memory. I know it is a pain but it just could have missed something the first time you ran it but only the test linked and it MUST be 8 passes like I said any less and you may as well not bother.

Before you do that I would also test the drive I know it is new doesn'tmean it is a good one http://www.seagate.com/au/en/support/downloads/seatools/ the short generic test is fine - test the GPU with this http://www.ozone3d.net/benchmarks/fur/

Plus one that I am particularly interested to see results from please follow this ditty of mine
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

I think a test on the CPU would not go amiss either but I am keen to see the results of the PSU test http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=205 < keep and eye on the temps when you run this which brings me on to have you or do you OC this machine?? and what are the temps normally? Use this for that
Speccy - System Information - Free Download

 

[MKK555]

Hey thanks for the detailed reply,

Before reading your post I removed my PSU from my computer and did a dust removal. The computer has been working perfectly the past 4 hours. I didn't see much dust go out so I'm not sure if it just needed a reseat or if some dust was in a particularly bad spot but things seem to be working well so far.

I should mention that I had suspected the PSU might be the culprit before so I had underclocked both my CPU (via BIOS) and GPU (through NVIDIA nTuneprogram) and had removed the connectors to both a 2nd hard drive and also a peripheral USB controller though that seemed to have no effect. Here's the voltage data you requested though as I mentioned this is after the fix.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok mate the rail volts look ok and about right for a PSU of that age.

Now one little tip PLEASE be extremely careful when working with in or around a PSU because it has inverter circuitry inside that uses high voltages at very high frequencies and the two main capacitors inside store a charge that is roughly the same as what is delivered via one of those resuscitation machines you see portrayed on TV.
I worked as RN for 45 years and so I know the similarities between those two devices and to put it very simply what you see as a shock being given to a patient on the TV is equivalent to what you will get if you mess with or otherwise come into contact with those PSU capacitors.
In essence a defibrillation machine (and those caps in the PSU) will stop your heart the principle is that anyone having a heart attack has a heartbeat that cannot be sustained because it has no precise rhythm and the idea is that once the heart is stopped the hope is that it will return to a normal rhythm that is what is happening when you see that shock given and if you happen to contact the terminals of either of those two capacitors. On most occasions the heart will not restart but it is either that or just let someone die. However in some cases the shock can bring the heart back into a reasonably correct rhythm.
So I cannot stress enough to be careful when dealing with PSU's because those charges can stay active for some considerably long time.
If you do something like that again unplug the mains cable and hold down the power on button for the computer that will in theory release most of that stored charge but that is not to say you can just go ahead willy nilly after using the power button ALLWAYS err on the side of caution be assuming it is still live.

Lecture over and now the tests on the CPU and GPU please.

 

[MKK555]

yeah i remembered to reset the charge because 2 years ago my computer would power on and have fans spin but no beeps and there was no signal to the monitors. The solution was as you said to unplug the machine and hold down the power for a few seconds.

I ran the furmark gpu test at 1920x1080 reso with no AA and got 22 avg fps for 15 minutes. after that it began to creep north of 90c so i pressed escape to end the test but that caused some form of GPU crash. the monitors stopped getting anything from the computer and the mouse/keyboard turned off and on again. Had to restart the computer and don't see any official log of the test

Have ran prime95 for about 45 minutes with no issues, cpu is staying at 53-55 c.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok lets try something else can you calculate the size of the PSU required for your machine using this as yours is a tad on the small size I would do it but I don't have what exactly you have in the machine which is one of the reasons we like to have a full system specs it makes it really hard when you don't know about all of the nuts and bolts.
Power Supply Calculator - PSU Calculator | OuterVision type in everything you have in that machine and it will give you a size you need that will allow for a little leeway for adding new stuff I am just interested in how much power this calculator comes up with.

Personally I feel that if you are using an overclock at all this PSU would be better if it were putting out at least 450Watts preferably 500Watts as this would cover the OC plus any other increased power requirements. I do have particular brands that I like but it does depend on your budget of course but I use Corsair units mainly because they are quality made devices.

Now have you had any further dumps if so can you send them too because memory management is so prevalent in the ones already posted, and I think if push comes to shove then it might be an idea to follow that link I sent so we know for sure the test is the right one not that I disbelieve you but to rule out the memory as a cause of the problem.

Just one last thought could you please update the chipset driver on the board please.
M4A785TD-M EVO Driver & Tools| Motherboards | ASUS Global
and ignore the beta version for the time being.