Power Outage.. now computer won't turn on

Kirsch

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Okay, so.

I know everyone has heard this scenario, and I have done a good amount of time on google searching for an answer, and have yet to come across something that helped.

What happened:

Overnight on Tuesday we had a pretty wicked thunderstorm which knocked our power out when I was sleeping (clocks reset, etc gave it away). When I woke up, my computer was off. No problem, I thought, that is normal. I go over to boot it up.. nothing. No LED lights, no fan spin, no beeps, no NOTHING.

What I've done:

I have unplugged and switched off my computer and left it all day, came back after work, plugged it in, still nothing. I have tried a different outlet, still nothing. I have flashed the bios for fun, still nothing. I've checked and rechecked all of the cables (which shouldn't be necessary, the computer didn't move), and they all are correct and in place (I've reseated them too).

Now, I know what you are all going to say : "Do you have a surge protector?" Yes. Yes I do. I think it just failed or something.

Also, I know you will tell me that my power supply is most likely fried, and in all honesty, you are probably right. I don't own a tester, so I will probably have to run to Best Buy or something with just my power supply to have the Geek Squad :sick: test it for me.

What am I looking for? Any. Other. Possible. Solution.

As I said, I am going to test my power supply when I get time, and no, I do not have a spare one lying around/other PC to test it with.

Thanks for any/all input :)
 

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How did you flash the bios if it won't turn on?

Some surge protectors only work a limited number of times (I don't know why, I've just seen some that say it on the packaging/protector itself).
 

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Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
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Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
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I've got to wonder how you "flashed the BIOS" when you cannot get the computer to turn on. Sounds to be like your power supply or your motherboard has died.
 

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Sorry, wrong terminology.. I just removed the CMOS battery for a few minutes, its solved random things for me before :) We just call it flashing the BIOS around here to make it sound like we are doing something impressive, sorry for the confusion.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 UltimateAMD Athlon II X2 245 2.90Ghz3.00 GB8800GTS 512MB
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate
CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 245 2.90Ghz
Motherboard
Some Gigabyte one, dont remember model
Memory
3.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
8800GTS 512MB
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 22" widescreen
Hard Drives
250GB internal, 500GB internal
PSU
CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850W Power Supply
Case
Thermalkake Tsunami Dream
Cooling
Thermaltake Golden Orb II
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Saitek Eclipse 2
Mouse
Logitech MX518
I have flashed the bios for fun, still nothing.

How did you flash the bios?

That's an operation that requires power.
 

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MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bitAMD A10-4600M6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)AMD Radeon HD 7660G
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Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit
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AMD A10-4600M
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AMD Pumori (Socket FT1)
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6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)
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AMD Radeon HD 7660G
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High Definition Audio Device
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Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz)
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1600x900@60Hz
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SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device
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Standard PS/2 Keyboard
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HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410
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What the local pub, local coffee shop offers.
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Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device


Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed.
Without having access to another power supply, this is pretty hard to test on your own. I think you are going to have to take it somewhere and have it tested. I would think a small computer shop would test it for free as long as you are going to buy a replacement power supply from them if yours turns out bad.
 

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Self-Built in July 2009
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Windows 7 Ultimate x64
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Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz
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Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R rev. 1.1, F12 BIOS
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8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timings
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Intel X25-M 80GB Gen 2 SSD
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stock
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ABS M1 Mechanical
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Logitech G9 Laser Mouse
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15/2 cable modem
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Windows and Linux enthusiast. Logitech G35 Headset.
If it was a surge, it could be a number of things that got hit.
PSU, MOBO, CPU ...
Maybe just the PSU

I agree, have it checked.

But I would think, if the power supply itself isnt powering up, or fan spinning it very well may be dead.

Do you have any diagnostic/bench testing switches on your board?

Maybe try to bypass the power switch on the case all together, and power up from the board itself .. If it has a button for it on the board.
 

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Intel Core i7 2700k
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eVGA P67 SLI
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Seasonic x750
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Corsair 600T SE White
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eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
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Saitek Cyborg
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Kaspersky
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IE
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LG BD/DVD
Do you have any diagnostic/bench testing switches on your board?

Maybe try to bypass the power switch on the case all together, and power up from the board itself .. If it has a button for it on the board.

There aren't any switches, but the first thing I am doing when I get home tonight is taking my screw driver and placing it in between the two links where the power switch cable plugs in, for my motherboard as far as I know that's the only way to bypass the switch :)
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 UltimateAMD Athlon II X2 245 2.90Ghz3.00 GB8800GTS 512MB
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate
CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 245 2.90Ghz
Motherboard
Some Gigabyte one, dont remember model
Memory
3.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
8800GTS 512MB
Sound Card
Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual 22" widescreen
Hard Drives
250GB internal, 500GB internal
PSU
CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850W Power Supply
Case
Thermalkake Tsunami Dream
Cooling
Thermaltake Golden Orb II
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse 2
Mouse
Logitech MX518
If you have some spare wire, that would be better than a screw driver. Not all of them make the best conductors.
 

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Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bitIntel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz6 GB DDR3 1333MHzIntel HD 3000
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Toshiba P775-S7100
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Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
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6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
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Intel HD 3000
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Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
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1600x900; 1360x768
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750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
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Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
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IE10
you can try disconnecting the power cords to extra devices you don't need that your power supply is supplying power to...obviously leave the power cord to the mobo/hd.
 

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There aren't any switches, but the first thing I am doing when I get home tonight is taking my screw driver and placing it in between the two links where the power switch cable plugs in, for my motherboard as far as I know that's the only way to bypass the switch :)


I can only assume that you are joking. If not, then....
 

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MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bitAMD A10-4600M6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)AMD Radeon HD 7660G
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Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit
CPU
AMD A10-4600M
Motherboard
AMD Pumori (Socket FT1)
Memory
6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD 7660G
Sound Card
High Definition Audio Device
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1600x900@60Hz
Hard Drives
SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410
Internet Speed
What the local pub, local coffee shop offers.
Other Info
Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device


Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed.
Is there a light on the PSU (led) usually green, that when on the light is on? If not, that's the first clue that the PSU is bad. If it is on then it's the mobo or CPU or both have gotten fried.

TIP: Surge Protectors - do not skimp out on this piece of equipment. Get one with the highest joule rating you can find and they are not cheap. Your computer is a big investment and you don't want to rely on some $10 part protecting it. These surge protectors where out just like any other piece of equipment and need to be replaced. The general rule is replace it every 2 - 3 years. This seems a little costly but look at like this. It's an oil change for your electronics to keep them running smooth just like you do for your car/truck/van. Your supposed to change the oil every 3000 to 5000 miles depending on how you drive and at the DIY rate for parts and labor or pay some one $20 to $40 each time which can add up in a years time. It's a small price to pay for either but well worth it in the long run.
 

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It sounds at the minimum you PSU is fried. That is if you get no lights or fan action. Start there and hope for the best.
Good luck.
Ken
 

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The issue of surge protectors usefulness has been beaten to death by some, but here's my suggestion.
1. Consult with your friendly licensed electrician regarding the grounding installed at your residence. If older house, then probably totally inadequate.
2. Get a good UPS. I recommend Tripp-Lite and don't skimp on the price.
3. Get a good surge protector. don't skimp on the price.

a fourth recommendation is called "point of entry" protection. This can be expensive with solutions being surge-protecting circuit breakers from Siemens or a Primax surge protector.

The cheapest, and most effective solution, is unplug your equipment.
 

My Computer My Computer

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MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bitAMD A10-4600M6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)AMD Radeon HD 7660G
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit
CPU
AMD A10-4600M
Motherboard
AMD Pumori (Socket FT1)
Memory
6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD 7660G
Sound Card
High Definition Audio Device
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1600x900@60Hz
Hard Drives
SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410
Internet Speed
What the local pub, local coffee shop offers.
Other Info
Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device


Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed.
I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James
 

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Never had to open a power supply. But if like most electronics, there will be a fuse right off the power Socket. Wouldn't it be nice if it stopped there? A Guy
 

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Windows 10 Home x64
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ANTEC Three Hundred Illusion
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COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, 4 x 120mm 1 x 140mm Noctua's
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85 + Mbps
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Avast
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Vivaldi
I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James

Bridging the connection with a piece of wire is the common test to make sure the button works. In fact, it also a common method of testing with any thing electrical, as a way of bypassing the need of a switch, fuse or relay.
 

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Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bitIntel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz6 GB DDR3 1333MHzIntel HD 3000
Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10
I wouldn't be poking around with any screwdrivers or spare pieces of wire to try and bridge the power. I think you risk frying more (your MB and/or yourself!) than it's worth. I just replaced my PSU today. It just went "blink" and that was that. Here in Thailand, it was about $12 for PSU and $1 for install. All in; all done 10-15 minutes while I waited. I've been grabbed by Ol' Sparky too many times to play around for something this cheap. You only got one heart and it don't like to be jump started. However, if you're determined to play...don't!
James

I agree with. There are other testing methodologies. I'm a retired Elec Eng. who, in his varied carrier, had a Testing Department under his supervision.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bitAMD A10-4600M6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)AMD Radeon HD 7660G
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite S875D-S7239 laptop
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit
CPU
AMD A10-4600M
Motherboard
AMD Pumori (Socket FT1)
Memory
6.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz (11-11-12-28)
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD 7660G
Sound Card
High Definition Audio Device
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (1600x900@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1600x900@60Hz
Hard Drives
SSD 119GB Corsair CSSD-V128GB2 ATA Device
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
HP Wireless Optical Mobile Mouse Model FHA-3410
Internet Speed
What the local pub, local coffee shop offers.
Other Info
Optical Drive:MATSHITA BD-CMB UJ160B ATA Device


Also have an Asus ha1002xp netbook with Win 7 Ultimate installed.
Do you have any diagnostic/bench testing switches on your board?

Maybe try to bypass the power switch on the case all together, and power up from the board itself .. If it has a button for it on the board.

There aren't any switches, but the first thing I am doing when I get home tonight is taking my screw driver and placing it in between the two links where the power switch cable plugs in, for my motherboard as far as I know that's the only way to bypass the switch :)

Oh no ...

Not at all what I meant

Some Motherboards have switches built in for testing on a bench. This is what I was refering to.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Home Premium 64bitIntel Core i7 2700k8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866EVGA GTX570 SC
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
Never had to open a power supply. But if like most electronics, there will be a fuse right off the power Socket. Wouldn't it be nice if it stopped there? A Guy
If a computer PSU has a fuse in it, it's usually a resettable one. The reset is done by removing the power cord for a minute or so, and then plugging it in.

If it's the PSU, it's most likely the input stage that went from a surge. I don't recommend opening one if you aren't sure what you're doing. There can be voltages in places one might not suspect. I thought I'd fix one at work last week, and got belted by 120V for my trouble, and I'm fully qualified and I know what I'm doing. lol
 

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PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mellon Labs (custom build)
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Win 7 Pro x64/Win 10 Pro x64 dual boot
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AMD FX 8350 Vishera @ 4200
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ASUS M5A97 R2.0
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16 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2400 @ 1866 (9-10-10-10-31)
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XFX Radeon R9 280 Double D Black Edition
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Realtek HD Audio on MB. Sounds great.
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Acer 24", Acer 22"
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3840 x 1080
Hard Drives
1 x Mushkin Chronos 120 GB SSD (Win 10)
1 x Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD (Win 7)
1 x WD 1TB SATA Blue
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PSU
Corsair TX-750
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912+
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Coolermaster Seidon 240M Liquid AIO. 6 case fans
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Logitech G710+
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Logitech G500s
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Much better since I got fiber, but still way overpriced.
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MSE, Malware Bytes for scanning
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Firefox
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Corsair VOID USB headphones.

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