Solved Audio device and Mouse keep disconnecting, and reconnecting

RCLaCrosse

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Ever since i started using Windows 7, my mouse and my audio drivers seem to keep resetting. I have made sure all my drivers for all my Windows components are up to date.

I was using the built-in RealTech audio that came with my Asus P8Z68V motherboard, and every few minutes I would see the little message pop up saying it detected that I just plugged an audio device, and about as often, my mouse would suddenly stop working, and then reconnect. both would be followed by that sound windows makes when it just detected a new device had been disconnected. So it's almost like Windows is resetting my IRQ or DMA or something, or it just drops the port, and opens it again. :huh:

I can verify that I am not constantly unplugging my speaker jack and mouse, so its not me. :) I even went into the BIOS and disabled the on-board sound and installed a sound Blaster X-Fi card, and it made no difference.

I tried connecting my Logitech MX518 mouse to another USB port, and it did not help. I am using a Logitech G19 keyboard, so I relocated my mouse to a USB port on the keyboard and it seems to do it a bit less often. <shrug>

This problems happens all the time, no matter if I am playing a game, browsing the internet, etc... The sound will stop for about a half second, or the mouse will freeze, and then they reconnect as if nothing happened... except for the Windows default sound event for "device disconnect". They do not disconnect together, or at the same time, they are cutting in/out independently from each other. Sometimes twice in a 10 second period, other times not at all for 20 min or so.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
I should add that the motherboard was bought at the same time as Windows 7.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
No one has a clue to any suggestions on how to narrow down my problem?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
Could you report any conflicts in Device Manager?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home Premium x64AMD FX-8150Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2...x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mine
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
AMD FX-8150
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Sound Card
(Onboard) Realtek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Dynex 42 inch HDTV
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 2TB (SATA);
My Book 300GB (USB);
My Book 3TB (USB)
PSU
Kingwin KX-1000
Case
Corsair Carbide 500R
Cooling
Corsair H100
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless Solar K750
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M305
Internet Speed
DSL (unsure of details)
Other Info
LiteOn iHBS212 Blu-Ray Writer (SATA)
Could you report any conflicts in Device Manager?
I expanded all the devices in the device Manager, including hidden ones, and no conflicts anywhere.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
I'm lost; sure the drivers couldn't be re-examined? You get a software cd with the motherboard? Should have drivers on it if you didn't already take care of that. I just don't see Windows as the cause of the problems.

When you plugged the mouse into the keyboard's USB, what exactly changed?

Maybe you vomited somewhere in the BIOS prior to your disabling of the onboard audio and mucked something up?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home Premium x64AMD FX-8150Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2...x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mine
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
AMD FX-8150
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Sound Card
(Onboard) Realtek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Dynex 42 inch HDTV
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 2TB (SATA);
My Book 300GB (USB);
My Book 3TB (USB)
PSU
Kingwin KX-1000
Case
Corsair Carbide 500R
Cooling
Corsair H100
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless Solar K750
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M305
Internet Speed
DSL (unsure of details)
Other Info
LiteOn iHBS212 Blu-Ray Writer (SATA)
I'm lost; sure the drivers couldn't be re-examined? You get a software cd with the motherboard? Should have drivers on it if you didn't already take care of that. I just don't see Windows as the cause of the problems.

When you plugged the mouse into the keyboard's USB, what exactly changed?

Maybe you vomited somewhere in the BIOS prior to your disabling of the onboard audio and mucked something up?
Nah. I reset the BIOS to default because Windows seemed to be having problems when I was first trying to install it. My motherboard and Windows are both new, and bought in November. Now that you mention it, i have been listening more closely, and I'm not hearing the audio drop out any more, like it did with the onboard audio.

The change from plugging the mouse into the keyboard seemed like it helped reduce the problem, and since you asked, I played around trying to see if there was a real difference, and i can't really tell for sure either way, because the disconnects are so sporadic. Sometimes the mouse will disconnect 10 times in an hour, other times it will not disconnect at all for two hours. It's a real pain.

Is there a way to see what IRQ or DMA is assigned to the mouse, so i can see if the computer is actually changing them, after it disconnects again?
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
Do a Windows search for "msinfo32" run the .exe that pops up, expand "Hardware Resources" on the left, and there you go.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home Premium x64AMD FX-8150Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2...x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mine
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64
CPU
AMD FX-8150
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth 990FX
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Dual-Channel 1866MHz 8GB (2x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
x2 Galaxy GeForce GTX 560 2GB in SLI
Sound Card
(Onboard) Realtek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Dynex 42 inch HDTV
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 2TB (SATA);
My Book 300GB (USB);
My Book 3TB (USB)
PSU
Kingwin KX-1000
Case
Corsair Carbide 500R
Cooling
Corsair H100
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless Solar K750
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M305
Internet Speed
DSL (unsure of details)
Other Info
LiteOn iHBS212 Blu-Ray Writer (SATA)
I had the same problem with a standard Logitech mouse on a USB port of an ASUS board with Windows 7 running.
This problem with USB mice seems to be very frequent, because I found many reports about that in many forums.
I tried all the software solutions poposed in these forums but to absolutely no avail. On the contrary, the mouse freezing for some seconds with the "USB device connect/disconnect" sounds happened more and more frequently.

Finally I found the very simple solution:
It is a simple hardware problem and had nothing to do with software:

The Logitech mice (and their various similarly constructed clones) have an extremely cheap cable connection. The relative thin and cheap cable has no antikink device at all. The only strain relief is an S-shaped channel through which the cable is lead into mouse case. Obviously the isolations of the wires inside the cable are chafed in the kinks of the S-shaped channel after longer use so thin, that tottering short circuits happen between the wires in the cable, which appear to the system like connecting and disconnecting the USB device.

I screwed the mouse encasement open and took the cable out of the S-shaped channel and bend it straight thus removing all kinks in it. Then I shoved the cable one inch into the case. so that I could lay a "fresh" (= unkinked before) section of the cable into the S-shaped channel.

I did that 2 weeks ago. I had no problems since then anymore.

Werner

P.S.: Be careful opening the mouse case:
Remove the single screw which holds the case closed.
Then lay the mouse on a table while you take off the cover of the case and keep it lying on the table while you do the above described operations with cable and close the case again before you lift it off the table.

By this you prevent that the mouse wheel falls out of its position, cause it is a lot of enervating hustle to put the wheel and the 2 spring wires holding it back into correct position, if you don't know how to do it. So better keep it untouched in its position while you do the cable operations.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 ultimate 64bitIntel i78 GBIntel on MB
OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7
Motherboard
Asus
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel on MB
Sound Card
Realtek on MB
Monitor(s) Displays
NEC
I bought a new mouse, which fixed the problem for me. However, this new mouse is flaky, and I may just try your solution. :) I did try wiggling the cable to see it I could duplicate the problem, but it did not.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz16GBPNY GEFORCE GTA 560
OS
Windows 7 (64 bit Home Premium)
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500K CPU @3.30GHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V
Memory
16GB
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GEFORCE GTA 560
Sound Card
CREATIVE LABS SOUNDBLASTER X-Fi
Monitor(s) Displays
LG FLAT TRON W2452T-TF
Hard Drives
2G SEAGATE BARRACUDA
I bought a new mouse, which fixed the problem for me. However, this new mouse is flaky, and I may just try your solution. :) I did try wiggling the cable to see it I could duplicate the problem, but it did not.

wiggling the cable does not always show "connect/disconnect USB device" effect reliably. Otherwise I would have found the reason much earlier. I think the chafing thinning of the wire isolations happens slowly and only in some places, so that the tottering short circuits happen only sometimes.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 ultimate 64bitIntel i78 GBIntel on MB
OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7
Motherboard
Asus
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel on MB
Sound Card
Realtek on MB
Monitor(s) Displays
NEC
I've had the same problem for a while now. getting progressively worse, so maybe it is the cable degridation that the previous poster mentioned. However, previously i was wondering whether it was an optics issue with the sensor of the optical mouse. only because i first started to experience it as i lifted the mouse off the surface in order to move across the cursor across the screen. however, recently i have had the mouse re-instally/connect even when moving across the surface [NOT even lifting it away from the surface]. after reading the previous post i tried putting strain on the cable and i have managed to replicate the problem by leaving the mouse on the surface stationary and twisting the mouse cable, let go of the cable and move the mouse and it re-connects. but i have also managed to get it to re-connect even by simply lifting the mouse a few inches from the surface and rotating it ever so slightly. i wouldnt image this would put much strain on teh cable but it still failed and re-connected.

the cable degradation is still very plausible so i might just order myself a new mouse and see what happens. my current mouse is a microsoft branded razor habu, wired optical. the interesting thing being i decided to place it on a different surface and it stopped re-connecting for a while, hence why i went back to the optical issue
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Professional 64bitIntel i5 [email protected]4GBNVidia 8800-GTX
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
CPU
Intel i5 [email protected]
Motherboard
MSI P55-GD65
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia 8800-GTX
Sound Card
onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama 24" LCD Prolite E2407HDS
Case
Antec
Test with another working mouse

The easiest way is to lend a mouse which is surely OK from a friend and test the computer with that mouse ... if it works with that mouse, then you can be 100% sure that it is a mouse hardware problem.

Since the new optical mice usually never break, I think that Logitech built in that predetermined breaking point to keep up the sales and shareholder value :)

It is very probable then, that it is caused by the imho predetermined lousy cable connection.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 ultimate 64bitIntel i78 GBIntel on MB
OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7
Motherboard
Asus
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel on MB
Sound Card
Realtek on MB
Monitor(s) Displays
NEC
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