Solved CPU Temperature Overheat

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Hey guys.

So I installed a new cooler today (Cooler Master liquid cooler, Seidon 120V Ver.2) - I finished installing it (complete with fresh new thermal paste, cleaned it properly and everything). I turned it on (moment of truth) and my BIOS just kept beeping at me and said "CPU Temperature Overheat". I went into the Temperature Monitor tab in my BIOS and it says 100+°C!

So I put my hand over the pump, no heat. I put my fingers around the socket, no heat. I check the temperature of the North and South bridges, no heat. It's all cold. Cool. So why is my BIOS falsely reading over heat detections?? Would this occur because I took off the BIOS jumper whilst my PC was off? I don't know.

Could you awesome people give me any suggestions?

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/bKhdV Here is the picture of the pump.
https://imgur.com/a/Ms8Hv BIOS temperature monitor

 

[The Fonz]

Something very very similar to this happened to me when I first was building my PC. My CPU was said to have been running at a decently high temperature, so I got a new fan. And guess what... It was a CoolerMaster, just like yours!

Anyways, here is all of the help I can offer:
*Make sure you always use the pea drop method when applying thermal paste, spreading is no good. If you did not do so, I urge you to reinstall the fan with this method.
*Just read an article by someone having a similar problem, and one response said to reset the BIOS (clearing the CMOS and updating the BIOS if possible)
*One of your pieces of hardware or the CPU itself may be defective, maybe try booting up with just one stick of RAM in.
*Make sure the fan on the front of your build is sucking in air, and the one in the back is blowing it out (to make sure you have proper air circulation).
*Check your fan spinning rates in the BIOS, are they not spinning at optimal rates?

That's all I can think of man. I wish you the best of luck though, try some of those procedure out and let me know what happens.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I'm not sure whether or not it's doing this because of this cooler or I accidentally removed the BIOS jumper. Of course since it's happened to you, and many others, it kind of proves the liquid cooler product itself is bad.

I read through your post and what you mentioned to try, I've already done. I'm not sure what to do. Whether I should get a different cooler or not.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
See what realtemp shows
Download Real Temp 3.70 | techPowerUp

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Hi,
See what realtemp shows
Download Real Temp 3.70 | techPowerUp

I can't boot into Windows. It won't proceed further from the POST because it's detecting a CPU temperature over heat. It just asks me to reconfigure my system.

 

[BorisTheAnimal]

Are you sure you installed it correctly?

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Go to bios and Optimize defaults and save and exit :/

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

In the BIOS it shows CPU Vcore at 1.5v for some odd reason. It only started doing this when I removed the BIOS jumper plug from the 2 pins it's on. The CPU Temp in Temperature Monitor shows 127C straight away, which means the CPU isn't really overheating because it wouldn't have enough time to heat up that quick. It was only on for 1 minute or less.

I installed it correctly and checked everything 5 times. The fan on the radiator works, the pump block lights up blue, I can feel water pumping through the pipes. If it was really overheating, the CPU pump block would be warm or hot and the radiator would be hot as well. (right?)

It just seems like the BIOS settings and CPU vcore voltage is messed up as it should never be at 1.5v on AUTO.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Silly question but is the heat sink making contact with the cpu :/

Did you remove the cpu ?

I'm not understanding the jumpers stuff ?

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Hi,
Silly question but is the heat sink making contact with the cpu :/

Did you remove the cpu ?

I'm not understanding the jumpers stuff ?

The pump block is making contact with the CPU.

A jumper basically clears the CMOS. It's like a CMOS clear switch/button but a better method. It is 1 of 3 ways to clear the CMOS.

 

[ThrashZone]

Thanks okay I get it now
Have you reinstalled the old cpu cooler yet ?
And which one was the old ?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Now the CPU is sitting squarely on the heatsink?? just make sure it is and is not caught on anything that stops it fitting flush down.

Now I personally like to use Arctic Silver products to a) clean and prepare both surfaces (this makes them exquisitely clean) then b) apply the thermal compound thinly and evenly over each surface using the index (or whatever) finger in a vinyl glove then c) place a rice grain sized spot of thermal in the centre of the CPU.
Spreading the thermal first makes absolutely sure that every part of each surface is covered but it only has to be very thin the spot of thermal will "bleed" out towards the edges after a few minutes running.
This Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean then this Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5

Otherwise lie the others I would be suspecting something in the BIOS - just as a by the by how old is the CPU?? it looks to be new but just curious.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

It is seated fine. I'm unable to move the pump block. The CPU is about 4-5 years old now and still works fine. Like I said, it's just saying its overheating when in reality it's not.

 

[DavidE]

In the BIOS it shows CPU Vcore at 1.5v for some odd reason. It only started doing this when I removed the BIOS jumper plug from the 2 pins it's on.

It just seems like the BIOS settings and CPU vcore voltage is messed up as it should never be at 1.5v on AUTO.

Are you sure you put the jumper back on the correct pins ?
Can you manually set the CPU vcore voltage to what it should be ?

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

The jumper is on the right pins. (The first 2 pins, not the 2nd and 3rd.)

I tried to manually but I wasn't sure what the vcore voltage should be. I know the CPU Voltage should be 1.34v. I'm very uncomfortable with keeping the system on with it beeping away at me telling me it's overheating. Like I said, if it truly was at 127C it would shut down instantly as it used to upon hitting 90C.

 

[DavidE]

Did you place the jumper on the 2nd and 3rd pins for a few seconds after you accidentally removed it ?
That's part of the bios reset process (for me).
I also press the power button a few times with AC power disconnected to drain any residual power.
Then place it back on the first 2 pins.
Remove the AC power cable before doing this.

If AUTO still keeps the voltage at 1.5, I would try manually setting the voltage to 1.34.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I just don't feel comfortable keeping my system on whilst it thinks it's overheating. It takes a couple of minutes to find all of the appropriate values (voltages) and in that time it could actually damage the CPU, y'know? I'm just being careful as this system is the first gaming system I've ever built (for myself). I cherish it very much.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

it's just saying its overheating when in reality it's not.

Well that smacks of a malfunction of either the thermal sensors within the device or receptors on the board.

Another thought is have you checked outthe PSU see my ditty on checking the rails it could be out of whack though if it were out of whack that much it should shut down.
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
Power Supply 101: A Reference Of Specifications - Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I cannot boot into Windows because of the "overheat". I simply cannot boot into Windows. I've had a new cooler (Corsair H90) purchased and will try that as I've read countless issues with this cooler from people. If it continues after installing this new Corsair cooler then I may have to RMA my motherboard. I may have "scratched" something on the back of the board when I was trying to remove the sticky adhesive/sticky tabs from the old back socket bracket. I'm not sure if that may be the problem.

 

[ThrashZone]

Depending on what you used to get the original back plate off with could very well of damaged the mobo
Plastic and alcohol is what I used with an Acer back place that I swear was super glued on :mad2: