Disk Boot Failure after blue screen

mynameiseliot

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Hi,

Over summer I built myself a new PC with the following spec:

i7 2600K 3.4GHz
16GB DDR3G-Skill RAM
HIS HD6950 2GB GPU
OCZ 120GB Vertex 3 SSD
Gigabyte Z68A MOBO

I also have 2 old hard drives acting as general storage and for programs that I don't want on the SSD.

However, probably within a few days of having set everything up (which all started fine), I started to have a problem.

Sporadically, the computer will crash, reboot and then display a disk boot failure error. Initially I panicked and tried to reboot from the Windows CD etc. For some reason I had a fiddle inside, particularly with the SATA connection to the SSD. When I rebooted, it worked fine.

This has been going on now for months.

I've rung ebuyer and said to them, but they have no idea what the problem is. I'm hesitant to send it back to be replaced under warranty due to the disruption it will inevitably cause (I'm a secondary school teacher and so rely on having my computer).

I hadn't actually had a problem for a few weeks until about a week ago. Now it blue screens and then dies.

I did get a message saying, upon reboot one time that the CPU had been overclocked (which it has, but only to 3.9GHz). Another reboot saw this message go away...

Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be?

It's perhaps also worth mentioning that sometimes the HDDs seem to go to 'sleep' i.e. if I'm using iTunes, and I click to play a song, there will be a lag. This can happen after having not used the computer for a while, but it can also happen in the middle of using it.

I've run various disc check programs, all of which have said that all the drives are healthy.
 

My Computer

OS
Win 7 Pro x64
For the Disk Boot Failure message you should check out the diagnostics and tests mentioned here: SSD Tweaking and Diagnostics Tools

For the CPU overclock message, that means your overclock is not stable. Tone it down, or reset BIOS defaults. As long as you are getting bluescreens you should not be overclocking at all. Reset the standard settings and determine if the problem is still there. If it is then deal with the hard drive and resolve it. After the system is running correctly, then play with overclocking.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Does your OCZ SSD run the latest firmware? Seems these drives are kind of notorious for being crashy with outdated firmware.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom-built
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 32-bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz
Motherboard
Asus PL5D2
Memory
4GB DDR2-667 (4x1GB in dual-channel config)
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce 9800 GT
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer P236H
Screen Resolution
1920x1200 (DVI)
Hard Drives
OCZ SSD Vertex Plus 60GB SATA (Firmware 3.55), 64MB cache
Hitachi HD321KJ SATA, 320GB, 7200rpm, 16MB cache
PSU
Antec TruePower 2.0
Case
Cooler Master Centurion
Cooling
Too many fans
Keyboard
Standard
Mouse
Microsoft wireless optical mouse
Internet Speed
AT&T U-verse (18mbit/sec)
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Other devices:
Compaq CQ-60 laptop
Google Nexus 7 (2012) tablet
Nvidia SHIELD tablet (US/LTE)
Hardkernel ODROID-XU single-board computer (Samsung Exynos 5420)
I've just checked and I don't have the latest firmware. However, it recommends not updating if the SSD is the boot disk which mine is. Can anyone shed any light on this?
 

My Computer

OS
Win 7 Pro x64
When it happens again do as mentioned above & check the boot order in the bios. Sounds like it changed itself. Happens to me when I get similar error messages.

As for the SSD. At the moment it all seems to hang on chance. If I had know the issues these things have I would have waited getting one.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Pro x64 -- PCLinuxOS KDE4 FullMonty 2011
CPU
i7-875k @ Turbo - 7,6,5,5 - 3.6ghz
Motherboard
Asus P7P55D-E Deluxe
Memory
Corsair CMD8GX3M4A1600C8 8gb
Graphics Card(s)
Asus EAH5850 DirectCU/2DIS/1GD5
Sound Card
On Board
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster T220 - Panasonic VT30a 50"
Screen Resolution
1680x1050 -
Hard Drives
Corsair Force 3 SSD 120GB x 2 ::
WD VelociRaptor 150GB WD1500HLFS x 2
PSU
Corsair HX-850 Power Supply
Case
Coolmaster HAF 932
Cooling
Corsair H50
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless MK700
Mouse
Logitech Wireless MX620
Internet Speed
Good enough for now
Other Info
Voip. Insanely cheap phone calls.
This is happening to me too
with my corsair Force 3 SDD
I have to change boot order in Bios every time it happens or it wont boot.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
2.67 gigahertz Intel Core2 Quad Q9450
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. EP35C-DS3R
Memory
8gb
Graphics Card(s)
nvidia 8800gt
Monitor(s) Displays
sony bravia 46
Screen Resolution
1900x1200
Hard Drives
1tb sanyo
WDC WD2500KS-00MJB0 ATA (250.06 GB)
Corsair CSSD-F60GB2 [Hard drive] (60.02 GB)
Internet Speed
very slow
A couple of things I have read regarding SSDs and the changing boot order issue:

First things to check is:

  • 3v motherboard battery - if weak it will lose settings.
  • SATA data cable - try a new one, or a different one.
  • Power connector - try a different one
The other thing I see is that people are running the boot drive SSD on the secondary controller on the motherboard to take advantage of the SATA3 speeds (a Marvel controller, for instance). This seems to cause the common problem. People report fixing the problem by putting the SSD on the Intel controller (the main 6 SATA ports). While these ports run at SATA2 speeds there does not seem to be a noticeable change in speed or performance.

SSDs and SATA3 are still relatively new tech. It often occurs to me that the industry is still working out the bugs and the consumers are the beta testers.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
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Reactions: Arc
OCZ 120GB Vertex 3 SSD ... I'm looking at reviews on Newegg.com and although it rates 4 out of 5 stars overall, 23% gave it only 1 star, meaning there is a very high failure or high dissatisfaction rate on this drive.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build - Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3
OS
Window 7 Home Premium 64-bit
CPU
Intel i7-2600
Motherboard
Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3
Memory
16GB DDR3-1666
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac Nvidia 295 GTX (Dual GPU)
Sound Card
Realtek --> SPDIF --> 1200W 7.1 Surround Sound Receiver
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 24" LCD Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ 120GB RevoDrive SSD (2x 55GB [actually 110GB] RAID 0)
2x Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD
Western Digital 500GB (swap/temp file)
Western Digital 1TB (backup)
PSU
Rosewill BRONZE Series RBR1000-M 1000W Continuous@40°C
Case
HEC Blitz Black Steel Edition ATX Mid Tower Computer Chassis
Cooling
Air
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
Cable (20 Mbit)

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom-built
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 32-bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz
Motherboard
Asus PL5D2
Memory
4GB DDR2-667 (4x1GB in dual-channel config)
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce 9800 GT
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer P236H
Screen Resolution
1920x1200 (DVI)
Hard Drives
OCZ SSD Vertex Plus 60GB SATA (Firmware 3.55), 64MB cache
Hitachi HD321KJ SATA, 320GB, 7200rpm, 16MB cache
PSU
Antec TruePower 2.0
Case
Cooler Master Centurion
Cooling
Too many fans
Keyboard
Standard
Mouse
Microsoft wireless optical mouse
Internet Speed
AT&T U-verse (18mbit/sec)
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Other devices:
Compaq CQ-60 laptop
Google Nexus 7 (2012) tablet
Nvidia SHIELD tablet (US/LTE)
Hardkernel ODROID-XU single-board computer (Samsung Exynos 5420)
There was a know issue with the first few batches of the ocz drives.

The driver was to fault. Apparently the SSD was reading data faster than the driver could process causing things to hang.

The recent driver update has eliminated that issue by slowing down the drive a very small amount. (Talking less then 50 mega bits per second).

The OCZ website has a list of effected drives which can be identified by their serial number.

I run my corsair force 3 off my non intel 6gbps SATA socket and its been flawless. Not sure on the cable quality, it came with my ASUS mobo.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built by badgers!!!
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, & Mac OS X 10.9.2
CPU
Intel Core i5 2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8z68 LE
Memory
Corsair Vengence 8gb 1866mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GTX 770 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
2x ASUS LED 22" IPS
Screen Resolution
3840x1080
Hard Drives
240GB Crucial M500 SSD
120gb Corsair Force 3 SSD
1TB Western Digital
PSU
Corsair HX650w Modular
Case
Corsair Air 540
Cooling
Corsair H60 Push/Pull
Keyboard
Corsair K70/ Logitech G27 wheel
Mouse
Saitek R.A.T 9
Internet Speed
Too slow!
Other Info
AMD fusion E350N Home server-Windows Home Server 2011 (also made by badgers!)
2011 Macbook 2.4ghz Core2Duo, 4gb ddr3, 120gb Ocz Vertex SSD
Thanks for the replies.

I'm thinking that a firmware update could be the answer (or at least I hope it will). However, OCZ say that the firmware can't be updated if the drive is the boot drive.

If this is the case, how can I update the firmware?

As I think I said, if I give the cable a wiggle, I can get back into Windows very painlessly. Obviously this is a hassle though, and the crashes seem to be random...
 

My Computer

OS
Win 7 Pro x64
As I think I said, if I give the cable a wiggle, I can get back into Windows very painlessly. Obviously this is a hassle though, and the crashes seem to be random...

If you did mention this I missed it. And it raises the possibility that you just have a bad SATA cable!

That is now what you should check first. Get yourself a good quality SATA cable and switch it for the one on the drive. Be sure the connectors are plugged in well.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
I've already swapped the cables - I've tried both with standard supplies cables. Will a 'good quality' cable be any different to those that I've tried?
 

My Computer

OS
Win 7 Pro x64
Probably not. The odds that 2 cables are bad is high, that 3 are bad is higher.

It could be the connector on the drive itself. But if your observation is correct and the drive can be recognized if you wiggle the connector (improving contact) then I believe you have your culprit. I can't think of any defect in the drive, the motherboard, or the OS that would be affected by wiggling the cable.

The only other thing that might be related is that the power connector is loose, or not making good contact, and it is moving also when you wiggle the data connector.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Is there anyway that this can be rectified BESIDES having it replaced? Obviously that would (in theory) fix the problem, but at the minute I don't have the time to be dealing with the hassle of a new drive...
 

My Computer

OS
Win 7 Pro x64
Well, you can play with it. With warning.

If you look at a SATA cable, inside the connector you will see 7 contacts. You could try and pry up on these contacts with a very small flat blade screwdriver so as to maximize the contact to the matching contacts inside the connector on the hard drive. That may create enough of an improvement to fix the problem.

You could also wrap some electrical tape around the outside of the connector to try and "snug-up" the mating of the connector and the drive. That may stop it from wiggling.

If the issue is with the connector on the hard drive you've got a big decision. If you damage the SATA cable it is no big deal - just get a new one. But if you damage the connector on the drive you are screwed. You will not be able to retrieve your data and if still under warranty then... you know.

It all depends on what you are capable of and how much risk you are willing to take.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
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