Solved PC Shuts Down overheating??

[exitPr0gram]

Hi...

OK Heres what i'm working with. 560ti Enthusiast 1gb graphics card, 2x4 GB RipJaw RAM, i7 2600-k processor, and a GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 Motherboard, 120GB SSD SATA and another 3TB inertnal HDD. So...

I play a game called starcarft 2. had this computer about 6 months. power supply went out, replaced it. worked like a charm

recently the computer started completed shutting down mid-game. Sometimes it wont turn back on immeditaley, but! ... Success when i toggle the switch on the power supply. I've replaced the power supply once already.

I rebooted when it first happened and i got a message stating that something was done with overclocking (couldn't duplicate the msg)... i did use a tool i forget the name of it though... one were you click a button and it would apply pre set settings. I remember it was made for the i7 2600-k 3.4GHz, though. I am pretty sure i got it from why i thought was a reliable source...

Any who, i went in to the bios and disabled the Turbo Boost feature. No joy. Computer shutdown mid game.

Then i restored defaults back in the BIOS. when that didn't work i went back in and then chose "Restore Optimized defaults", also in the BIOS settings.

The issue persists.

SO. Now i'm trying to flash the BIOS because i ready an article stating it fixed a similar issue. I've never done this and i'm hoping someone could walk me through it because there are a lot of files and i have no idea when to use first. Heres the link to my motherboad: GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket 1155 - GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 (rev. 1.3)


Thanks for anybodies help in advance.

 

[paulpicks21]

Have you considered it might be a graphics card fault? It might not be but it's definitely something to think about. Do you have a spare card you could try to eliminate it?

Paul

 

[Zepher]

It's possible you have a flaky power supply. What model did you have and what did you replace it with?

 

[exitPr0gram]

I'm not sure what it is to be honest. I hope this is an easy fix as i don't have the money to buy parts ATM.

I just know that the powersupply has been replaced with an Antec 750watt gaming series PSU. the other PSU i had wouldn't come up at all, but the lights and fans would come on for a split second then go right back off. i did a paperclip test on it and determined it was bad. I was happy about that cause others said it was the mobo or the procesor.

The Graphics Card seems to be fine, but then again i could be wrong. As i said the entire machine shuts down in the middle of a game. At first it was Starcraft 2 so i just played Diablo 3 with no problems. Then it started to happen in both games. I hope it isn't my graphics because the 560ti Enthusiast edition wasn't cheap.

Any ideas how to isolate this down to the root cause? And if it is the graphics card, then why would it cause me to toggle the switch on the PSU?

Thanks again

 

[karlsnooks]

exitprogram,

Use quality parts with plenty of headroom, in other words, a higher wattage rating than you think you need.

Do not overclock.

Here's how to update a Gateway bios:

UPDATE GIGABYTE BIOS WITH Q-FLASH

Ø Insert a USB stick (256 mb is more than enough)
Ø WIN + E | right-click on the drive
Ø Format | set FAT32 as the FileSystem | uncheck Quick Format |
Start button | Close button after format finished

Ø WIN + E | right-click on the drive
Ø Properties | Tools tab | Check Now button |
Checkmark both boxes | START button


Ø Go to the Gigabyte website Gigabyte Homepage
Ø Click on Support and Downloads (in the menu at the top)
Ø In the Downloads' Model Name box, enter your motherboard model, for example,GA-Z68X-UD4-B3, click on Search
Ø In the Results section, click on BIOS
Ø You are now at the Downloads page for your motherboard

Ø In the row For the most recent BIOS, in the Download Here column,
select your desired download source, for example, America
Ø Click on the Save button

Ø You have now Downloaded the Bios update file which is a
self-extractor, for example, mb_bios_ga-z68x-ud4-b3_f10.exe
Ø Extract the file (simply run the file you downloaded to extract)
Ø Copy the file with a name like Z68XUD4.F10 to the USB stick.
Ø Leave the USB stick connected.
Ø Shutdown your computer.

Ø Power Up your computer.
Ø Immediately start continuously tapping the END key on the keyboard.
Ø The Main Menu of Q-Flash will appear on the screen.
Ø Select HDD-1.0 and hit ENTER
Ø Select the Bios update file and hit ENTER
Ø Press ENTER when Are you sure to update BIOS? appears.
Ø The monitor will display the update progress.
Ø When the update is finished, press any key.
Ø You are now back at the Main Menu

Ø Remove the USB stick.
Ø Press ESC and then press ENTER to exit Q-Flash.
Ø Your system will reboot.

Ø Immediately start tapping DEL (the Delete key) to enter BIOS
Ø Select Load Optimized Defaults and hit ENTER
Ø Select Save and Exit Bios and press Y
Ø Your system will restart and the procedure is complete.

==================================================

 

[exitPr0gram]

Well... i decided to go with The overheating angle, I got an h100 liquid cooling system along with the phantom 410 case to make it all fit. I reset the bios settings back to default so it's no longer overclocked. I'm hoping with the liquid cooling and it not being overclock that should never have an issue with it overheating again no matter what. As far as the head room that you were talking about this new case, the phantom for 10, should be fine. Plenty of room for ventilation on top of the liquid cooling, on top of all of the fans. The phantom 400 case was only 99.99 + tax but it seems to be the best bang for the buck at fry's electronics.

 

[exitPr0gram]

Oh And I think I already checked the bios version and I think it's up to date. I will double check though and I'm pretty sure those instructions you gave to me should simplify the process.

question tho..You gave me instructions on how to update a gateway bios... My motherboard is made by gigabyte. Does gateway still have some relation To my motherboard in some way? I'm just curious. I figure I might as well learn as much as I can while I'm doing this.

I seriously appreciate all of your guys help on this issue.

 

[karlsnooks]

well good man,
Your system specs say Gigabyte for a motherboard.

Your system specs say "custom build"

Now you are talking about Gateway.

Would you please explain the discrepancy?

 

[karlsnooks]

Ah ha! I see that I am the one who made the mistake.

The instructions are for a Gigabyte Bios, although I said following in the post # 5

Here's how to update a Gateway bios:

UPDATE GIGABYTE BIOS WITH Q-FLASH

My mistake and thanks for point the error out to me.

 

[exitPr0gram]

Ah ha! I see that I am the one who made the mistake.

The instructions are for a Gigabyte Bios, although I said following in the post # 5

Here's how to update a Gateway bios:

UPDATE GIGABYTE BIOS WITH Q-FLASH

My mistake and thanks for point the error out to me.

LOL. It happens. No harm done.

 

[exitPr0gram]

Well guys.....

When my AC in my apartment went out it looks like it messed with my thermal paste rendering it useless. Which is why it kept shutting off (Thank god for fail-safe) and i put some new arc lite along with an H100 cooling system on it to prevent this from ever happening again.

I really do appreciate all of your guys's input on this.

One thing i learned... If it shuts down twice in a row, leave it alone and jump straight to troubleshooting the processor overheating. As this is one of the more serious things that could be wrong, unless of course other factors state this is obviously not the problem. The thermal paste may be no good and that's the LAST thing we want is for out processor to go... unless your Graphics card costs more, then its a tie =) .. If you think its the power supply a simple paperclip test should help narrow it down.

If i'm wrong on any of this please correct me. I always ask questions and get answers so i would like to contribute some how with answers of my own.

Thanks again guys.

 

[exitPr0gram]

exitprogram,

Use quality parts with plenty of headroom, in other words, a higher wattage rating than you think you need.

Do not overclock.

Here's how to update a Gateway bios:

UPDATE GIGABYTE BIOS WITH Q-FLASH

Ø Insert a USB stick (256 mb is more than enough)
Ø WIN + E | right-click on the drive
Ø Format | set FAT32 as the FileSystem | uncheck Quick Format |
Start button | Close button after format finished

Ø WIN + E | right-click on the drive
Ø Properties | Tools tab | Check Now button |
Checkmark both boxes | START button


Ø Go to the Gigabyte website Gigabyte Homepage
Ø Click on Support and Downloads (in the menu at the top)
Ø In the Downloads' Model Name box, enter your motherboard model, for example,GA-Z68X-UD4-B3, click on Search
Ø In the Results section, click on BIOS
Ø You are now at the Downloads page for your motherboard

Ø In the row For the most recent BIOS, in the Download Here column,
select your desired download source, for example, America
Ø Click on the Save button

Ø You have now Downloaded the Bios update file which is a
self-extractor, for example, mb_bios_ga-z68x-ud4-b3_f10.exe
Ø Extract the file (simply run the file you downloaded to extract)
Ø Copy the file with a name like Z68XUD4.F10 to the USB stick.
Ø Leave the USB stick connected.
Ø Shutdown your computer.

Ø Power Up your computer.
Ø Immediately start continuously tapping the END key on the keyboard.
Ø The Main Menu of Q-Flash will appear on the screen.
Ø Select HDD-1.0 and hit ENTER
Ø Select the Bios update file and hit ENTER
Ø Press ENTER when Are you sure to update BIOS? appears.
Ø The monitor will display the update progress.
Ø When the update is finished, press any key.
Ø You are now back at the Main Menu

Ø Remove the USB stick.
Ø Press ESC and then press ENTER to exit Q-Flash.
Ø Your system will reboot.

Ø Immediately start tapping DEL (the Delete key) to enter BIOS
Ø Select Load Optimized Defaults and hit ENTER
Ø Select Save and Exit Bios and press Y
Ø Your system will restart and the procedure is complete.

==================================================

When you say higher wattage rating and quality parts with more head room... What were you referring to? I was told the 750W PSU i have is more than enough, and this case gives me plenty of space considering what i have inside of it.

I'm willing to take your advice but i'm unsure of what you mean because all of my parts seem to have far more than enough space/power. Especially now that i've added liquid cooling and a case with more ventilation and fans.

 

[F5ing]

exitprogram,

Use quality parts with plenty of headroom, in other words, a higher wattage rating than you think you need.

Do not overclock.

When you say higher wattage rating and quality parts with more head room... What were you referring to? I was told the 750W PSU i have is more than enough, and this case gives me plenty of space considering what i have inside of it.

I'm willing to take your advice but i'm unsure of what you mean because all of my parts seem to have far more than enough space/power. Especially now that i've added liquid cooling and a case with more ventilation and fans.

I think you've understood what I believe Karl was referring to. If you've got a high quality PSU that's rated for 750W and all the devices it feeds only consume 300W, you've got 450W of headroom. Plenty of spare capacity available to acommodate the internal surges that occur when the connected devices require it.

 

[exitPr0gram]

exitprogram,

Use quality parts with plenty of headroom, in other words, a higher wattage rating than you think you need.

Do not overclock.

When you say higher wattage rating and quality parts with more head room... What were you referring to? I was told the 750W PSU i have is more than enough, and this case gives me plenty of space considering what i have inside of it.

I'm willing to take your advice but i'm unsure of what you mean because all of my parts seem to have far more than enough space/power. Especially now that i've added liquid cooling and a case with more ventilation and fans.

I think you've understood what I believe Karl was referring to. If you've got a high quality PSU that's rated for 750W and all the devices it feeds only consume 300W, you've got 450W of headroom. Plenty of spare capacity available to acommodate the internal surges that occur when the connected devices require it.

Ah ok. I figured that's what you were talking about i just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing anything.