Requesting tips on building PCs

FLaTLiN3D

New member
Local time
6:51 PM
Messages
57
Location
Southern Michigan
Hello everybody,
I've recently had an undying urge to build my own computer, hopefully from scratch. However I simply don't have an excess of money. How do you suggest I get the most "bang for my buck"? I love gaming so it would have to be quite a decent computer. What parts do you think would be the best for me? Parts for everything I mean.... CPU, GFX Cards, Sound Cards, etc, everything new.

Also, is it cheaper to build them yourself or buy gaming computers pre-built? Say, from Newegg?

Thanks in advance,
FLaTLiN3D
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite L675D-S7052
OS
MS Windows 7 HP 64Bit
Internet Speed
2MB/s ↓
Hi Flatlin3d

Building them is more fun and you can get exactly what you want, although pre-built computers usually benefit from the volume purchase the builder can get, which becomes their margin. In other words, I haven't found a huge difference, but that might be because of the specs I picked (cheap, in my case)

It is difficult to recommend something, mainly without knowing how much you are willing to spend and what performance you expect. Also, please fill in your present system's specs, so we know where you are coming from

What I recommend: check Newegg's public Wish Lists. There is a huge number of systems that you can compare at every price level. When you have a base one in mind it is better to give advice.

I hope this helps
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Wally, Innc.
OS
Windows 7 x64 finally!
CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 240
Motherboard
Biostar TA790GX XE
Memory
OCZ Platinum 4GB DDR2 1066 (will not work past 800MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R4670-MD1G Radeon HD 4670 1GB 128-bit GDDR3
Sound Card
ATI High Definition Audio Device Realtek ALC888
Monitor(s) Displays
HP w19e
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Green WD5000AADS 500GB SATA
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB SATA
PSU
Athena Power Micro ATX 400W
Case
HEC 6T 6T10BB Black MicroATX Mini Tower
Cooling
stock
Keyboard
wired, many keys
Mouse
HP wireless, 2 buttons, 1 wheel
Internet Speed
DSL 2Mb (recently getting 1.65M!)
Quite frankly, budget will determine everything.

Do you have a max dollar amount in mind?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Danpass 642
OS
Win 7 64 Pro
CPU
E4400
Motherboard
P5N-E SLI
Memory
2GB - G.Skill DDR2 800 F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire 100172L Radeon X1550 256mb
Sound Card
built-in
Monitor(s) Displays
Viewsonic 19"
Screen Resolution
1440x900
PSU
Ultra ULT-VX600
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Cooling
Stock Antec 120 and 140 fans on low plus two 120s for intake
Well, there are 3 things you should really NOT skimp on (especially for gaming):
1 Motherboard
2 CPU
3 GPU
(4) RAM
(5) HDD

I will assume you already have a nice monitor, KB, mouse, speakers, etc.

First thing you want to choose is your CPU. Pick your top 3 choices, and look for a motherboard that fits your top choice.
For the CPU, I recommend getting a good model, but don't worry about its speed! I say this because it makes MUCH more sense to simply overclock it instead. For that reason I recommend the AMD Phenom x4. Just make sure the clock multiplier is unlocked.
For the motherboard you want a high quality one. ESPECIALLY if you are considering OCing. Make sure it can take up to as much RAM as you want to add (ever). Make sure the RAM slots are compatible with your CPU (i.e. DDR, DDR2, DDR3), and it has the PCIe slots you need for the GPU (2 if you want more than 1) and the PCI slots for expansion cards.

Next up is RAM. Pick good sticks, but you don't need super high quality gaming modules. I use the base Crucial modules, and they work great. Again, the timings can be OCed later if you want, so you don't need the top of the line.

After this, your GPU. If you want good forward compatibility, go for the ATI 5870. The 5770 is good too if you don't want to spend that much. The 260GTX is an awesome card, but it does not have DX11. Again, you can EASILY OC your graphics card.

Last up would be the HDD. 7200rpm is standard, and fine in general. Get an SSD for the OS and games if you want, but they can be pricey. The 10000rpm Velociraptor might not be a bad choice instead.

The case is important too, as it can affect your temps. Get a case with good fans (or go Watercooling, but that is pricey). As long as it fits your stuff (watch out if you get a big GPU), it should be fine.

~Lordbob
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hera
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Mint 9
CPU
Intel i5-2500k
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Memory
2x 4Gb Corsair VENGEANCE DDR3-1600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GeForce N260GTX Twin Frozr
Sound Card
Realtek HD OnBoard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS 24" Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
G.SKILL Phoenix Series 60GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3R 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA II
PSU
Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W
Case
Cooler Master Haf 932
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Razer Tarantula
Mouse
Razer Lachesis
Internet Speed
not fast enough
Hi Flatlin3d

Building them is more fun and you can get exactly what you want, although pre-built computers usually benefit from the volume purchase the builder can get, which becomes their margin. In other words, I haven't found a huge difference, but that might be because of the specs I picked (cheap, in my case)

It is difficult to recommend something, mainly without knowing how much you are willing to spend and what performance you expect. Also, please fill in your present system's specs, so we know where you are coming from

What I recommend: check Newegg's public Wish Lists. There is a huge number of systems that you can compare at every price level. When you have a base one in mind it is better to give advice.

I hope this helps

Here's one from that list called 'cheap gaming computer'

Newegg.com - Once You Know, You Newegg





.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Danpass 642
OS
Win 7 64 Pro
CPU
E4400
Motherboard
P5N-E SLI
Memory
2GB - G.Skill DDR2 800 F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire 100172L Radeon X1550 256mb
Sound Card
built-in
Monitor(s) Displays
Viewsonic 19"
Screen Resolution
1440x900
PSU
Ultra ULT-VX600
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Cooling
Stock Antec 120 and 140 fans on low plus two 120s for intake
I built my first one about 6 months ago and it was a lot easier than I thought. I also had some good help from this forum.
It was very useful to be able to get online for help if you are uncertain at any point.
I used my existing pc or you could get a friend with a laptop round.
Also I spent weeks researching components so I could be sure everything was compatible and I was getting the very best components I could afford.
I think it's crucial to look at everything, right down to the case fans as they can vary tremendously yet a good one costs the same as a rubbish one.
I agree with the earlier post that motherboard, cpu and gpu plus ram are very important but also the case you buy can make a lot of difference to how easily the build goes. Think big and preferably with a slide out mobo tray.
I also believe that a good monitor is essential. That's the bit that you look at all the time after all.
I spent about half as much on my monitor as I did on the pc components but it is a fantastic monitor.
Mind you, if you've got a good pc you can save for a top range monitor for later.
You need to give us a price and I'm sure you will get lots of recommendations.

Good luck, John:D
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
The Monolith. 3.1
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
CPU
i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
2x4GB Corsair Vegeance DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX GTX 260 Black Edition
Sound Card
none-through large stereo hi fi
Monitor(s) Displays
Croosover 27MDP LED IPS Dell 2408 WFP
Screen Resolution
2560x1440 1920x1200
Hard Drives
1x Samsung 840Pro 128GB SSD
1x Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB
PSU
Corsair AX 850 Watt
Case
Cooler Master ACTS 840
Cooling
Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro
Keyboard
Enermax Aurora
Mouse
Logitech Ballmouse
Internet Speed
20MBPS
Watch out!
I made a new custom build last week. And, when I put it together it didn't work. I had to send the CPU, Motherboard & Memory all back as I had nothing to test the parts on. They found that the CPU was a dud and now I have a new one on delivery...

Shop at Laptops - Cheap Laptops, TVs, Netbooks & PC Monitors | Ebuyer.com for all your Computer needs and they dish out good service too. UK only!
 

My Computer

OS
Stools
Don't skimp on the PSU either. A bad power supply could ruin all of that. Of course that doesn't mean ago and buy the $250 psu. Many decent ones come in at $60-100.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Pro 64bit build 7601 SP1
CPU
Intel Core I5 3570K 3.4Ghz w/ Zalman CNPS9900NT RT
Motherboard
MSI Z77A-G45 Gaming
Memory
G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GbXL ; 4Gx2
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA Geforce GTX 770 Superclocked
Sound Card
Creative Sound Blaster Z
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual ViewSonic VX2770Smh-LED Black 27"IPS-Panel
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Kingston Hyper X 240GB SSD Win8 Pro 64bit 6GB/s Sata III
Intel 335 Series SSD 240GB Win8 Storage 6GB/s Sata III
Intel 320 Series SSD 600GB Storage 3GB/s Sata II
Western Digital Scorpio Black 1TB - Docked via Esata
PSU
Coolermaster GX 750W
Case
Corsair Vengence C70
Cooling
Coolermaster 120mm and Enermax 140mm
Keyboard
Corsair Vengence K70
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
22mbps+
Browser
Firefox, Chrome, IE
Other Info
Swan M50W 2.1 speakers
APC UPS
Thermaltake BlacX HDD Dock
Samsung BD Optical Drive
Netgear WNDR4500
Research, research, research. A good start is to check out what parts the gaming PC makers use, that way you can figure out compatibility. I think decide on CPU 1st, that will determine your MB choices, then you can determine what Ram. GPU choice will be determined by what games you want to play, and at what settings. PSU will be decided by what the other parts will be, whether you plan to SLI or Crossfire (now or in the future). Better to go overkill a bit on PSU. Oh, and get an 80+ certified PSU.

Let's say for instance you decide on an 15 750 CPU (my choice, see my specs). Then you will be choosing from 1156 MB's. Then based on which you choose you know what Ram you can use, etc. If you build your own, research individual parts at the forums such as Tom's Hardware, Annand Tech, Overclockers Club, etc.

Have a look at AVA Direct, they have great configuration choices, and gives you good ideas at what should be compatible. Newegg often has good combo deals (CPU and PSU's, or Case and PSU's, etc). Ask questions, and work at the final config. You can then post at the various forums and ask them to review your choices. You will get varying opinions, but may actually find, for instance, a Ram choice you hadn't considered. And you'll get a varied real world usage sample.

Your 1st choice, when deciding on CPU will be AMD or Intel actually, those are vastly divergent paths! Good luck, best thing is don't rush, ask questions, narrow choices down, and then pull trigger. Get a total of parts then see if can make that same configuration at AVA direct, you may find (like me) that for $50 more than a pile of parts, and a windows install disc, you can get a professionally wired, configured, assembled, tested, OS and drivers istalled PC. With a 3 yr warranty to boot! I wanted to build my own, but for $50, just the 3yr warranty alone made that a no brainer! Good luck. A Guy
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Home x64
CPU
INTEL Core i5-750 Quad-Core 3.37GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P7P55D
Memory
HyperX Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Superclocked 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 32MA68HY 32" IPS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Evo 120GB, SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda® 7200.12, SATA 3 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache
PSU
ANTEC TruePower New TP-550, 80 PLUS, 550W
Case
ANTEC Three Hundred Illusion
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, 4 x 120mm 1 x 140mm Noctua's
Internet Speed
85 + Mbps
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Vivaldi
Okay I updated my system specs like you suggested.... I'm not really sure about a price range at the moment, pretty much however much money it takes me. I'll just save up or whatever. Do you think that This is a good choice perhaps? Good choice meaning I'm getting what I'm paying for. It has good reviews, but I'd like some third-party advice.... The iBUYPOWER's seem to be decent machines for a relatively low price, but is the hardware worth paying for? I'm completely computer-illiterate when it comes to hardware. I don't know what is better than the next unless is an obvious choice. I don't necessarily need to build it myself I suppose, it would simply bring unnecessary complications to the entire upgrading process.

Tell me what you think,
FLaTLiN3D

Edit: The motherboard IS the main part inside of the computer, correct? Meaning the largest part, big green rectangle with leads and such?
Could you explain to me what each part looks like and what type of port it goes into? I know what the RAM sticks look like, I can also visually recognize the PSU, and HDDs, but that's about it. What does the CPU look like? I'm asking because if I do decide to upgrade my computer I need to make sure which part is what.... I also know what the fans and the heat-syncs look like, but those are obvious.
**Also, when working on computers, is it really necessary to wear static-electricity eliminating gear? Because I fiddle with the inside of my pc all the time and it works just fine.**

What do you think of this comparison?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite L675D-S7052
OS
MS Windows 7 HP 64Bit
Internet Speed
2MB/s ↓
I have to tell you, it's not overly hard to build your own PC, but based on your last post...will you have a PC savvy person to help? No offense. If you don't know what a CPU looks like, then how are you going to know how to correctly apply thermal compound to your CPU cooler, amongst other things. Just my 2 cents.

Now, iBuyPower...I have to say, at 1st I was looking at them and CyberpowerPC...until I started researching them and seeing what people had to say about them. They seem to be hit or miss, either you get a great system and love it, or you get a pile of trouble. many posts of them subbing parts without asking, trouble getting repairs, etc. Here, read some posts at Reselleratings, looks like mostly positive reviews lately. Their prices are certainly good:

iBUYPOWER.COM - ibuypower.com - Reviews, Ratings and Prices at ResellerRatings

BBB rating

BBB Business Review of iBuyPower.com - Computer Dealers Retail - El Monte, CA

iBUYPOWER: High Performance Custom Gaming Computers and Notebooks

CyberpowerPC (quite possibly the same company it is said)

CyberPower PC. - Custom Built Gaming PC and Gaming Laptops

CyberPower / cyberpowerpc.com / cyberpowersystem.com - cyberpowerinc.com - Reviews, Ratings and Prices at ResellerRatings

BBB Business Review of Cyberpower, Inc. - Computer Dealers Retail - Baldwin Park, CA

I made the decision not to go with them because of their reputations, and my ever escalating build quality (lol, I went overkill). Just some food for thought. A Guy

Have a look here:

http://desktop-computers.avadirect.com/Socket_AM3_Desktop_PC
 
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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Home x64
CPU
INTEL Core i5-750 Quad-Core 3.37GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P7P55D
Memory
HyperX Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Superclocked 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 32MA68HY 32" IPS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Evo 120GB, SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda® 7200.12, SATA 3 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache
PSU
ANTEC TruePower New TP-550, 80 PLUS, 550W
Case
ANTEC Three Hundred Illusion
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, 4 x 120mm 1 x 140mm Noctua's
Internet Speed
85 + Mbps
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Vivaldi
I have to tell you, it's not overly hard to build your own PC, but based on your last post...will you have a PC savvy person to help? No offense. If you don't know what a CPU looks like, then how are you going to know how to correctly apply thermal compound to your CPU cooler, amongst other things. Just my 2 cents.

I also don't wish to offend either, but I have to echo Guy's statement/questions. Either have someone knowledgeable on hand for a complete scratch build, or have someone/ some company build it for you.

It is not difficult to build a PC, but it can certainly be daunting for first timers. It also makes troubleshooting in case something doesn't work properly that much more difficult.

The best way to learn how to recognize individual components is to view newegg / google/bing images.

EXAMPLE:
Newegg.com - Motherboard, Asus Motherboard, Gigabyte Motherboard, MSI Motherboard, Intel Motherboard, Motherboard Reviews

Newegg.com - Intel CPU, AMD CPU, Intel Processor, AMD Processor, Intel Core i7, AMD Phenom


**Also, when working on computers, is it really necessary to wear static-electricity eliminating gear? Because I fiddle with the inside of my pc all the time and it works just fine.**

No.

However taking simple precautions such as not rubbing static inducing shoes on carpet floors prior to directly touching components is advisable.

When removing / installing components, don't place them on carpets, blankets etc (anything that can create static basically).

If in doubt, touch something metal like a screwdriver or even the case prior to 'fiddling'.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Systems by SmartEyeball
OS
8 Pro x64
CPU
i7 3770K 4.6GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77 WS
Memory
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2666mhz
Graphics Card(s)
x2 EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked SLI
Sound Card
SB X-FI Surround 5.1 PRO USB / ATH-AD900 Headphones
Monitor(s) Displays
x3 Dell U2410 / 58" Samsung
Screen Resolution
5760*1200/ 1920*1200
Hard Drives
2x Intel 520 240GB (RAID 0) * 2x WD Caviar Blacks 2TB (RAID 0) * 2TB WD Caviar Black * Sony Optirac DVD
PSU
Silverstone Strider Evolution 1200W
Case
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Topre Realforce // Ducky Shine MX Black // Filco Ninja TKL
Mouse
Thermaltake Theron (Highly Recommended) + Razer Imperator
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE, FF, WaterFox
Other Info
GT Extreme V2 Sim Racing Cockpit + 40" LCD and K/B Mouse stand ▼
Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel + Clubsport V1 Pedals + CSR shifter/7G-H ▼Saitek X52 Pro ▼ TrackIR 5 Pro
Buttkicker v2 Seat Rumbler with Dedicated 5.1 and Sub Woofer attached to frame ▼
=
Bloody Big Grin
Thank you for all your help! A Guy, that link was very interesting, the one where you can choose the parts yourself.... I am "computer savvy" in most aspects, I simply haven't had the required tools and income to become skilled in the hardware portion of computers, everything else I can do... Are you saying that it would be a better choice to build it on hardwood floors instead of carpeting? Makes sense to me.

My problem isn't so much as recognizing the parts, it's figuring out where they go in the motherboard, does it matter? Or is it just wherever the cords fit?? Am I making this more complicated than what it really is? :confused:

Does the case really effect the outcome of the computer that much or is it basically just visual? Apart from the number of drives that can be mounted. Is bigger better with cases? So I could fit more HDDs or does it really not matter? I guess I would only really need one HDD if I'm getting a new computer because it would most likely be a TB hard drive.

That last link you provided, A Guy, is very useful indeed.... However I'm still not sure which parts are better than others.... Like.... I don't know the difference between
AMD, Sempron 140 2.7GHz, AM3, HT 1600MHz, 1MB L2 cache, 45W, 45nm, retail
and
AMD, Athlon II X2 215 Dual-Core 2.7GHz, Am3, HT 4000MHz, 1MB cache, 65W, 45nm, OEM

The second one costs more so I assume it's higher quality. But I don't like going by "if it costs more, it must be better"..... Could you help me figure out what those numbers REALLY mean? I understand that GHz is gigahertz, MHz is megahertz, and so on... But I'm not really sure what it means to have 4000MHz.... Do you know what I mean?

Also with cooling systems... Am I to believe that the higher quality parts I have, the higher quality cooling system I shall require? Are liquid cooling systems safe? I'm not sure how they work but can they spill or what? Can they possibly render computers useless if you... tip them on their sides? Or how does that work?

And what if I buy a part that doesn't fit onto the motherboard? Like a cooling system, they're all different shapes and sizes, how do I decide whether or not it would fit and properly work? Measure my parts?

*^*I was looking at parts, and I noticed some of the network cards say "32 Bit" does this mean I would have to use a 32Bit OS to use this part?

Also, is thermal grease required when I have a decent cooling system?


I came up with this combination for only 524$.... Would I be getting what I'm paying for?But more importantly, would these items work together with minimal hassle? Basic Configuration
 
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My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite L675D-S7052
OS
MS Windows 7 HP 64Bit
Internet Speed
2MB/s ↓
As far as connectors go, the modern stuff is very nearly plug and play, it will only fit in one spot. Sometimes though there are two or more spots (like USB connections on the motherboard) and there could be slight differences. Not sure if it was the card reader but plugging into one USB area was the low speed and the other spot was the high speed.

Sometimes it may fit but you don't want to use that connection, such as with onboard sound options.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Danpass 642
OS
Win 7 64 Pro
CPU
E4400
Motherboard
P5N-E SLI
Memory
2GB - G.Skill DDR2 800 F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire 100172L Radeon X1550 256mb
Sound Card
built-in
Monitor(s) Displays
Viewsonic 19"
Screen Resolution
1440x900
PSU
Ultra ULT-VX600
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Cooling
Stock Antec 120 and 140 fans on low plus two 120s for intake
As far as connectors go, the modern stuff is very nearly plug and play, it will only fit in one spot. Sometimes though there are two or more spots (like USB connections on the motherboard) and there could be slight differences. Not sure if it was the card reader but plugging into one USB area was the low speed and the other spot was the high speed.

Sometimes it may fit but you don't want to use that connection, such as with onboard sound options.
Would this computer come with the basic things in the back of it? Places to plug in monitors, USB ports, Ethernet hub... that kind of thing... Or would i have to install it? O____O That would suck.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite L675D-S7052
OS
MS Windows 7 HP 64Bit
Internet Speed
2MB/s ↓
Hmmn. The answer to a lot of your questions is yes.
It does matter a great deal where you stick things on the motherboard, if you put them in the wrong place either it won't work or you will ruin some expensive stuff you've paid good money for.
A case is not just for looks, it affects the efficiency of your cooling system and is important in terms of having the possibility of upgrading in the future. A 1TB hard drive may seem a lot but is soon filled if you put a lot of software and games plus media files on it.
Also, you want to game right? You need to think hard about your graphics card. Your ability to play new, complex and demanding games depends on both the power of your CPU and your graphics card.
The more powerful CPUs and graphics cards require more power (PSU) and produce more heat, hence the need for a case with good cooling properties and a good cooler for your CPU.
I agree that just because something costs more it's better is not necessarily true but in general it is.
There is a great deal of difference between an AMD Sempron and an AMD Athlon II. So much so that I could write pages on it.
The CPU cooler sits on top of the CPU. Thermal grease or paste enables the cooler to transfer heat to the cooler where it is cooled by fans blowing through a block of metal fins. It is essential.
You're running a 32 bit OS at the moment. If you intend upgrading to 64 bit you need compatible parts.
I wouldn't even think of watercooling. It is complicated and expensive and only really necessary if you are seriously overclocking top range components (CPU and GPU).
I looked at your basic configuration and it looks ok but I notice you have not included an optical drive. How you going to load your games?

All in all I have to agree with Smartey and A Guy. You don't seem to be ready for this yet. I hate to say that because a lot of my friends didn't think I could build my own computer and I did it, but I think I had more idea than you do right now. I had done lots of hardware upgrades to my existing pc-swapped out the motherboard, fitted a new CPU and cooler, upgraded RAM etc.
Also I had been reading PC magazines for years, studying complicated tutorials online and really working hard on understanding how pcs work. I had been reading this forum (and Vista forum) religiously for years. Reading threads I could barely understand and then looking stuff up until I could. It took a lot of study basically.
I'm really sorry to rain on your parade but I'm worried that if you go ahead you'll end up trashing a load of expensive parts.
If I were you I would go to a quality online pc builder. Look at their configuration in your price range and read up on comparisons of the various components.
Then either order what you want or go to a local pc builder and have it built for you.
I did this a few years ago. I decided on the parts I wanted, costed them and took a list in to a local pc shop.
The guy made a few suggestions for changes, which I had already considered anyway, and gave me a price for the build.
I had costed just under £800 for components and he charged me £60 to build it, install the OS and give me a guarantee.
I'm not sure where you are but if you let us know people can recommend companies to do business with.
If you go this route, continue to take part in this forum and study up on the basics then you can upgrade your pc a few times and build the next one yourself.:)
I really would not attempt it if you don't know where to stick things on the motherboard, sorry.

Best wishes, John
 
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My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
The Monolith. 3.1
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
CPU
i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
2x4GB Corsair Vegeance DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX GTX 260 Black Edition
Sound Card
none-through large stereo hi fi
Monitor(s) Displays
Croosover 27MDP LED IPS Dell 2408 WFP
Screen Resolution
2560x1440 1920x1200
Hard Drives
1x Samsung 840Pro 128GB SSD
1x Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB
PSU
Corsair AX 850 Watt
Case
Cooler Master ACTS 840
Cooling
Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro
Keyboard
Enermax Aurora
Mouse
Logitech Ballmouse
Internet Speed
20MBPS

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Advent
OS
Dual-boot: Windows 7 HP 32-bit SP1 & Windows XP Pro 32-bit SP2.
CPU
AMD Phenom X4 9550 2.8Ghz
Motherboard
FOXCONN A6VMX (Socket 940)
Memory
4.0GB RAM
Graphics Card(s)
256MB On-board ATI Radeon X1200 Series
Sound Card
UnKnown
Monitor(s) Displays
19" TFT Mointor
Screen Resolution
1400 by 900
Hard Drives
500GB Western Digital WDC
Keyboard
HP Keyboard
Internet Speed
Dial-up via Mobile phone (Three)
Other Info
80GB External Hard-drive.

Also I have an old Windows XP Laptop for backup/occasional use etc.
Hmmn. The answer to a lot of your questions is yes.
It does matter a great deal where you stick things on the motherboard, if you put them in the wrong place either it won't work or you will ruin some expensive stuff you've paid good money for.
A case is not just for looks, it affects the efficiency of your cooling system and is important in terms of having the possibility of upgrading in the future. A 1TB hard drive may seem a lot but is soon filled if you put a lot of software and games plus media files on it.
Also, you want to game right? You need to think hard about your graphics card. Your ability to play new, complex and demanding games depends on both the power of your CPU and your graphics card.
The more powerful CPUs and graphics cards require more power (PSU) and produce more heat, hence the need for a case with good cooling properties and a good cooler for your CPU.
I agree that just because something costs more it's better is not necessarily true but in general it is.
There is a great deal of difference between an AMD Sempron and an AMD Athlon II. So much so that I could write pages on it.
The CPU cooler sits on top of the CPU. Thermal grease or paste enables the cooler to transfer heat to the cooler where it is cooled by fans blowing through a block of metal fins. It is essential.
You're running a 32 bit OS at the moment. If you intend upgrading to 64 bit you need compatible parts.
I wouldn't even think of watercooling. It is complicated and expensive and only really necessary if you are seriously overclocking top range components (CPU and GPU).
I looked at your basic configuration and it looks ok but I notice you have not included an optical drive. How you going to load your games?

All in all I have to agree with Smartey and A Guy. You don't seem to be ready for this yet. I hate to say that because a lot of my friends didn't think I could build my own computer and I did it, but I think I had more idea than you do right now. I had done lots of hardware upgrades to my existing pc-swapped out the motherboard, fitted a new CPU and cooler, upgraded RAM etc.
Also I had been reading PC magazines for years, studying complicated tutorials online and really working hard on understanding how pcs work. I had been reading this forum (and Vista forum) religiously for years. Reading threads I could barely understand and then looking stuff up until I could. It took a lot of study basically.
I'm really sorry to rain on your parade but I'm worried that if you go ahead you'll end up trashing a load of expensive parts.
If I were you I would go to a quality online pc builder. Look at their configuration in your price range and read up on comparisons of the various components.
Then either order what you want or go to a local pc builder and have it built for you.
I did this a few years ago. I decided on the parts I wanted, costed them and took a list in to a local pc shop.
The guy made a few suggestions for changes, which I had already considered anyway, and gave me a price for the build.
I had costed just under £800 for components and he charged me £60 to build it, install the OS and give me a guarantee.
I'm not sure where you are but if you let us know people can recommend companies to do business with.
If you go this route, continue to take part in this forum and study up on the basics then you can upgrade your pc a few times and build the next one yourself.:)
I really would not attempt it if you don't know where to stick things on the motherboard, sorry.

Best wishes, John
I didn't include optical drives because I already have some that I could use. I did plan on upgrading to 64 Bit... I realize that I shouldn't assemble it myself just yet, that's why I was customizing it online... It would come all pre-assembled wouldn't it...? How do I determine the strength of the PSU that I need with all my parts? Even if I do wind up destroying some equipment, doesn't really matter to me... Money really has no value to me. I would learn from the experience and that's what matters most to me...

Even if I don't wind up building it myself... I would still like to have some sort of customization.... Do you think that's a good idea or should I simply buy one stock from Newegg? Also, on that 'Basic Configuration' would all of those parts work on a 64 bit system? And is the PSU powerful enough?
I simply NEED to upgrade from this pile of junk that I have now. Check my system specs, it's sad.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite L675D-S7052
OS
MS Windows 7 HP 64Bit
Internet Speed
2MB/s ↓
@Flatlin3d:

As is the case with so many things in life, the question, "What is the best thing to do," in all of its forms, piques as many different responses as there are responders.

I have always been served best by doing what I want for my reasons, confined only by the resources that are available to me at any given time which assumes the following priority:

1. No mater what you want or what is best, your budget will dictate your choices. So, if someone suggests you get that n-core processor that has a blazing n-Hz speed - that costs $1200 - and you cannot afford it, what matter is it that it is the best thing to do?

2. What is going to be the PRIMARY use of your machine? If you play games on the weekends for a few hours but spend 90% of your time on the Net surfing, messaging, reading emails, etc., what will work best for you 90% of the time?

3. Research. But research what: what is the best? No. First research/learn what the components do and how they interact. Too often you read forum posts that evaluate components in the abstract or in a vacuum. "This gizmo is capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound." Fortunately, after a bit of research, you learn that leaping tall buildings is of no practical use playing "Call of Duty," e.g., and you wisely decide you do not need the gizmo. More significantly, you learn that many components are incompatible with other components. For example, you cannot place an ABC socket CPU into an XYZ socket mobo.

4. Because of the dependency of one component on another, where does one start? CPUs dictate or otherwise limit one's choices of a mobo - or - mobos dictate or limit one's choices of a CPU. Since these two components serve as the brain and skeleton on which your system will be built, one or the other is the only viable starting point for me. To be sure, you can decide upon any other aspect/feature of any other component as being the most important: it's a matter of preferences.

5. Before you make any final decisions, almost every mfr make component specs and manuals readily available for DLs. In conjunction with your research, these documents will tell you if the component will serve your needs and guide you during the installation process.

6. Finally, if you do enough research, you will, usually, be able to glean a consensus, which recognizes that fact that "one person's food is another's poison"; if the majority of users are being poisoned, you might consider dining elsewhere.

What do I do:

1. First choose CPU (brain): what, whose. For my very specific reasons, which are not germane to this thread, per se, I ALWAYS choose AMD. Here, rather than trying to be provocative, I anticipate rejoinders to the contrary, which will enforce my point that everyone has their own/borrowed opinions. The question that needs to be answered is always, "What do you want?"

2. Next I choose mobo (skeleton): which, whose? Your choices are greatly narrowed due to the fact that the mobo must be able to accept the CPU. For very specific reasons, I ALWAYS choose ASUS. Why? Doesn't matter. Here, however, you have any number of mfrs from which to choose. How on earth do you decide between 10 different mfrs of, apparently, the same mobo? Your research will point out the differences between these "same" mobos, as well as their reliability, warranty, costs, and other factors that your research may alert you to.

3. Next I choose gfx card. As in the case of mobos, a large number of mfrs make the "same" cards. I ALWAYS choose ATi for very specific reasons. That helps but now whose? By the way, are you considering an SLI or XFire array? That might greatly influence your choice of card(s). And, do you realize that many cards are so large as to block the use of two or three expansion slots. Planning on a number of PCIe cards? They all going to fit?

4. Next I choose RAM. This choice is largely dictated by the mobo, the CPU a secondary influence. A factor many people do not realize is that regardless of the RAM's rated maximum speed, the mobo may step it down to a lesser "maximum" speed depending. On what? Research. My mobo does that in some cases.

5. Next I choose a PSU. First question: how many watts? Whose? Modular or not? The PSU must have sufficient power to drive your system. You can go to any number of sites that allow you to list your components upon which a minimum wattage value will be calculated for you. Is this a valid approach? Many researchers agree that people often overpower their machines. My favorite example is a house service panel. You may have a 200A panel but if you add up all of the breakers you have 300A worth. You underpowered? No. The electric company/builder know that people do not use every light/receptacle simultaneously. So too with computing: all of my components are not under a maximum load at the same time.

6. Of course, all of this stuff has to fit into a case - whose options are legion.

7. Next I choose the monitor; talk about legion. There are hundreds of monitor mfrs, sizes, resolutions, types, matte v. glossy screens (each addresses different applications), type of connectors (Sub-D, DVI, DVI-D, dual layer DVI), etc., etc., etc. Research

8. Finally, I cannot remember his name but an MIT prof, several years back, accurately noted a principle that applies to computer obsolescence (the ? principle) which observed that, what is new today, becomes obsolete after six months. A question I always answer for myself is, "How long do I wish to use this computer before I have/want to upgrade." I responded to a post a few days ago to a man who was happy with his machine that he got - seven years ago. What makes you happy?

Way back when in this thread A Guy said, "research, research, research." Couldn't agree more.

One more thing: the actual mechanics of computer building is 98% mystique and 2% being able to plug tab A into slot A.

Monk


 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Dual boot XP Pro SP3x86 and Win7 Pro x64
CPU
AMD Phenom II x3 720 BE OCed to 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
Asus M3A79T Deluxe
Memory
2x2GB OCZ OCZ2RPR10664GK PC2-8500 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATi Radeon 4830 HD x2 (XFire)
Sound Card
Integrated (SoundMax)
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual: LG L227WTG/LG M237WD
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050; 1920 x1280
Hard Drives
3 WDC WD7501AALS-00J7B0
PSU
Zalman 750HD Modular
Case
Antec 900
Cooling
4 120mm, 1 200mm fans
Keyboard
Black with lots of keys
Mouse
Razer Lachesis, Logitech RumbePad2, Logitech Marble
Internet Speed
Who counts
Other Info
7:1 SS
Thank you for all your help! A Guy, that link was very interesting, the one where you can choose the parts yourself.... I am "computer savvy" in most aspects, I simply haven't had the required tools and income to become skilled in the hardware portion of computers, everything else I can do... Are you saying that it would be a better choice to build it on hardwood floors instead of carpeting? Makes sense to me.
Yes. You need to discharge static from your body, but NOT INTO YOUR COMPUTER. It WILL destroy something (I blew out a motherboard and CPU this way).
When I work on mine, I DO NOT wear rubber soled shoes (they insulate you, you need to be grounded), and I hook a static band to the case. You don't need the static band, you can just touch the case.

My problem isn't so much as recognizing the parts, it's figuring out where they go in the motherboard, does it matter? Or is it just wherever the cords fit?? Am I making this more complicated than what it really is? :confused:
More or less there is only one spot something will fit, and only one way. For instance, RAM usually will have 4-8 slots, but the sticks will only fit in ONE way. HOWEVER, you WILL need to read your mobo manual to know which slots to use first. Generally RAM is dual or triple channel (which means 2 or 3 sticks at a time), and they need to be put into slots 1 and 2 (and 3) to work correctly.

Does the case really effect the outcome of the computer that much or is it basically just visual? Apart from the number of drives that can be mounted. Is bigger better with cases? So I could fit more HDDs or does it really not matter? I guess I would only really need one HDD if I'm getting a new computer because it would most likely be a TB hard drive.
The case is both. You can buy a really nice looking case that has terrible cooling (which is generally rare) or a bad looking case with just fine cooling. I like a cool case (see my thread on it), but a boring one can be fully functional.
Size only matters if you have a LARGE video card (HD5770, 260GTX, etc), and want to put a lot of HDDs, CD drives, etc in it. I tend to only like the full tower cases, I am sick of small ones, too hard to work with. But it is a personal choice.
The case can make a difference with cooling though. If you get one that is fully enclosed with no fans, it will hold heat, which isn't good. You want one that comes with a few fans to move air at the very least.

That last link you provided, A Guy, is very useful indeed.... However I'm still not sure which parts are better than others.... Like.... I don't know the difference between
AMD, Sempron 140 2.7GHz, AM3, HT 1600MHz, 1MB L2 cache, 45W, 45nm, retail
and
AMD, Athlon II X2 215 Dual-Core 2.7GHz, Am3, HT 4000MHz, 1MB cache, 65W, 45nm, OEM

The second one costs more so I assume it's higher quality. But I don't like going by "if it costs more, it must be better"..... Could you help me figure out what those numbers REALLY mean? I understand that GHz is gigahertz, MHz is megahertz, and so on... But I'm not really sure what it means to have 4000MHz.... Do you know what I mean?
Well... As a general rule, yes.
The first CPU there is a single core, and the second is a dual core (the X2). 4000MHz is 4GHz (1000MHz to a GHz)
When you look at a processor, the clock speed actually matters less than they push. What you want to look for is a solid clock speed (3.5GHz for single core, 3GHz for dual, 2.5GHz for quad), with a good Front Side Bus (FSB), L1 L2 and L3 cache. These will all factor into your processor speed. If you intend to overclock (ever) make sure to get an unlocked CPU (which means you can increase the clock speed).

Also with cooling systems... Am I to believe that the higher quality parts I have, the higher quality cooling system I shall require? Are liquid cooling systems safe? I'm not sure how they work but can they spill or what? Can they possibly render computers useless if you... tip them on their sides? Or how does that work?
No. The high quality fans cost about the same as the low quality ones, but perform differently. The fans are determined by your case. If you case has mounts for 4 120MM fans, then you need 120mm fans. When you look at fans, look for high Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) and RPM. If you care about noise (I don't) then you want a low decibel fan (dBA).
Bearing type doesn't matter unless you have a purpose for it.

Liquid cooling is something I am considering, and yes it is safe if done right. However, a good base system for JUST CPU is around $250 to start.
If it spills, then yes it can ruin your computer (water is conductive). Tipping them SHOULD NOT spill them, but probably should be thrown around.....

And what if I buy a part that doesn't fit onto the motherboard? Like a cooling system, they're all different shapes and sizes, how do I decide whether or not it would fit and properly work? Measure my parts?
If you get a CPU cooler, you need to get one that is compatible with your CPU socket. You will find that on your CPU description (look for socket type) and just find a good cooler that matches it. If possible, you want an all copper heatsink with a nice fan.
For regular case fans, the size in millimeters is all you need. They are all cross compatible.

*^*I was looking at parts, and I noticed some of the network cards say "32 Bit" does this mean I would have to use a 32Bit OS to use this part?
I am not sure, but I don't think so.

Also, is thermal grease required when I have a decent cooling system?
YES YES YES. It is required for ANY cooling system. The reason for this is that the top of the CPU and the bottom of the CPU cooler (which touch together) are NOT completely smooth or flat. There are microscopic canyons, bumps, ridges, etc. The thermal grease is used to fill in JUST those valleys and ridges. That is why you use only a thin layer. Arctic Silver 5 is considered the best compound, and for about $5 you may as well get some. You DO NEED thermal paste though.

I came up with this combination for only 524$.... Would I be getting what I'm paying for?But more importantly, would these items work together with minimal hassle? Basic Configuration
Not bad.
Your processor is good, but it is an AM3 socket, and your cooler is not. You will need to check that.
I would also get 4Gb of RAM, not 2.
For the graphics card, don't get a 220. Go with the 8800GTX, the 260GTX, or a 400 series. Or go ATI with a HD5770, 5870, etc. Don't get low profile.
You will probably want a bigger HDD, but that is a good one. You can always add more later.
I would also get a DVD burner if you don't have one (only about $50).
the network card is fine, but it is NOT wireless, it will need an ethernet cord.

~Lordbob
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hera
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Mint 9
CPU
Intel i5-2500k
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Memory
2x 4Gb Corsair VENGEANCE DDR3-1600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GeForce N260GTX Twin Frozr
Sound Card
Realtek HD OnBoard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS 24" Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
G.SKILL Phoenix Series 60GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3R 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA II
PSU
Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W
Case
Cooler Master Haf 932
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Razer Tarantula
Mouse
Razer Lachesis
Internet Speed
not fast enough
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