Windows 7 battery (Consider replacing)

Hello Som, and welcome to Seven Forums.

In addition, you might run a Power Efficiency Diagnostics Report to see what the results say. It has a "Battery analysis" section to help you get more information about your battery.

Hope this helps,
Shawn

Battery:Last Full Charge (%)
The battery stored less than 40% of the Designed Capacity the last time the battery was fully charged.

Design Capacity 44400
Last Full Charge 17483
Last Full Charge (%) 39


I also have two errors of:
USB Suspend:USB Device not Entering Suspend

and one:
CPU Utilization:Processor utilization is high
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
Som,

Do you have the Windows 7 chipset driver version, and the latest BIOS for your laptop installed? I have seen issues like this before when people do not.

If you do, then your battery may be nearing the end of it's life.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

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Self built custom
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64-bit Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
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Intel i7-8700K OC'd to 5 GHz
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64 GB (4x16GB) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3600 MHz
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Som,

Do you have the Windows 7 chipset driver version, and the latest BIOS for your laptop installed? I have seen issues like this before when people do not.

If you do, then your battery may be nearing the end of it's life.

The latest BIOS from Toshiba for A300 is from 2009. The is no update. Where do I get the Win7 chipset driver from?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

My Computer

OS
Win7
There should be a Vista chipset driver you can get from Toshiba, or you can google "A300 windows 7 chipset driver".

EDIT: I got my battery down to the point that the laptop will not start but lights come on for a second, and the meter on the battery still has one light (out of five) coming on. Should I try to discharge the battery further?
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built custom
OS
64-bit Windows 11 Pro for Workstations
CPU
Intel i7-8700K OC'd to 5 GHz
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus XI Formula Z390
Memory
64 GB (4x16GB) G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-O11G-GAMING
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x Samsung Odyssey G7 27"
Screen Resolution
2560x1440
Hard Drives
1TB Samsung 990 PRO M.2,
4TB Samsung 990 PRO PRO M.2,
TerraMaster F8 SSD Plus NAS
PSU
Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W
Case
Thermaltake Core P3
Cooling
Corsair Hydro H115i
Keyboard
Logitech wireless K800
Mouse
Logitech MX Master 4
Internet Speed
2 Gb/s Download and 100 Mb/s Upload
Antivirus
Malwarebyte Anti-Malware Premium
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Logitech Z625 speaker system,
Logitech BRIO 4K Pro webcam,
HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M477fdn,
APC SMART-UPS RT 1000 XL - SURT1000XLI,
Galaxy S23 Plus phone
EDIT: I got my battery down to the point that the laptop will not start but lights come on for a second, and the meter on the battery still has one light (out of five) coming on. Should I try to discharge the battery further?

Fully draining a battery can damage it beyond repair.
It is advised not to do that.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Alienware Aurora ALX R4
OS
Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3930K (3.2GHz - 4.5GHz)
Motherboard
Alienware Aurora-R4 x79
Memory
4x Samsung 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (16GB 1600MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce GTX 690
Sound Card
SteelSeries Siberia Elite
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp U3011
Screen Resolution
2560x1600
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB, Seagate 1TB Desktop Hybrid HDD, 2x Western Digital 4TB Green HDD
PSU
875W Some Dell PSU <.<
Case
Alienware Aurora ALX
Cooling
Custom Liquid Cooling (EK CPU & GPU blocks) dual EK 480RAD
Keyboard
Logitech G710+ Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios (50 mbps average)
Other Info
Server: Intel NUC D54250WYK: i5-4250U, 16GB, 256 GB mSATA, Windows Server 2012 R2
EDIT: I got my battery down to the point that the laptop will not start but lights come on for a second, and the meter on the battery still has one light (out of five) coming on. Should I try to discharge the battery further?

Fully draining a battery can damage it beyond repair.
It is advised not to do that.

I didn't. I drained it a little more, but not 100%. I let it charge, which took about twice as long as it has in the past to recharge, but no change. I was actually hoping something would change so that the OP would have evidence that it worked.

EDIT: I think I mentioned before that my battery has reached the point that my computer doesn't even realize it is there, and needs to be replaced anyway.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10
I didn't. I drained it a little more, but not 100%. I let it charge, which took about twice as long as it has in the past to recharge, but no change. I was actually hoping something would change so that the OP would have evidence that it worked.

EDIT: I think I mentioned before that my battery has reached the point that my computer doesn't even realize it is there, and needs to be replaced anyway.

Draining fully and recharging has no effect on lithium-ion batteries, they have no memory effect like nickel cadmium batteries do. You can keep a lithium-ion battery powered up all day long and it will not effect it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Alienware Aurora ALX R4
OS
Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3930K (3.2GHz - 4.5GHz)
Motherboard
Alienware Aurora-R4 x79
Memory
4x Samsung 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (16GB 1600MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce GTX 690
Sound Card
SteelSeries Siberia Elite
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp U3011
Screen Resolution
2560x1600
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB, Seagate 1TB Desktop Hybrid HDD, 2x Western Digital 4TB Green HDD
PSU
875W Some Dell PSU <.<
Case
Alienware Aurora ALX
Cooling
Custom Liquid Cooling (EK CPU & GPU blocks) dual EK 480RAD
Keyboard
Logitech G710+ Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios (50 mbps average)
Other Info
Server: Intel NUC D54250WYK: i5-4250U, 16GB, 256 GB mSATA, Windows Server 2012 R2
Actually, many people find that cycling a Li-ion battery helps some problems with them. Li-ion batteries have whats called a smart chip inside them. . Supposedly the smart chip in the battery sometimes thinks the battery is fully charged when it isn't. Completely discharging the battery forces the chip to reset. On Microsoft's support site they also recommend doing this to try to solve the problem th OP has. Its not for the same reason as far as I know. Apparently they think the mobo doesn't detect the battery correct;y. If it would have no effect at all, why would MS and thousands of others, including people on this site recommend it?
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10
What does the Chipset do?
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
I installed the cipset but the message is still there and the battery is draining
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
Som,
If you read the similar threads down below you will find replacing the battery problems others had.

View attachment 87361
1. Get your system backed up ASAP
2. You may end up replacing the battery after all said and done.
Keep us posted as to what you have done.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP M9077c
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel(R)Core(TM)2 quad [email protected] 2.39GHz
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ASUSeK
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6GB DDR2 6400
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GeForce 8500/512MB
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Realtek High Def Audio
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HP w2408 LCD 24" widescreen
Screen Resolution
1920x1200
Cooling
6 pack of Bud
Keyboard
MS wireless Inteli
Mouse
MS wireless Inteli
Som,
If you read the similar threads down below you will find replacing the battery problems others had.

View attachment 87361
1. Get your system backed up ASAP
2. You may end up replacing the battery after all said and done.
Keep us posted as to what you have done.

I've backed up everything. That's one of the first things I did. I'll look for a fix because I doubt it is the battery itself
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
I've backed up everything. That's one of the first things I did. I'll look for a fix because I doubt it is the battery itself

The fix...is to replace your battery. It is a year old now and batteries start to die around that time. They do not last forever. Windows is merely reporting what the hardware is telling it. And the hardware is telling Windows the battery is coming to the end of life.

If there is a bug, the bug is in the hardware or in the manufacture drivers for the hardware.
Also downgrading to Windows XP won't fix the problem, your battery will still be dieing.
Windows XP just won't tell you about it like Windows 7 does.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Alienware Aurora ALX R4
OS
Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3930K (3.2GHz - 4.5GHz)
Motherboard
Alienware Aurora-R4 x79
Memory
4x Samsung 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (16GB 1600MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce GTX 690
Sound Card
SteelSeries Siberia Elite
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp U3011
Screen Resolution
2560x1600
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB, Seagate 1TB Desktop Hybrid HDD, 2x Western Digital 4TB Green HDD
PSU
875W Some Dell PSU <.<
Case
Alienware Aurora ALX
Cooling
Custom Liquid Cooling (EK CPU & GPU blocks) dual EK 480RAD
Keyboard
Logitech G710+ Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios (50 mbps average)
Other Info
Server: Intel NUC D54250WYK: i5-4250U, 16GB, 256 GB mSATA, Windows Server 2012 R2
When you get a new battery, you can use this article for ways to keep it going for a longer amount of time.
How to prolong lithium-based batteries

A part of the article:
Simple Guidelines

Avoid frequent full discharges because this puts additional strain on the battery. Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory. (In this respect, lithium-ion differs from nickel-based batteries.) Short battery life in a laptop is mainly cause by heat rather than charge / discharge patterns.

Batteries with fuel gauge (laptops) should be calibrated by applying a deliberate full discharge once every 30 charges. Running the pack down in the equipment does this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate and in some cases cut off the device prematurely.

Keep the lithium-ion battery cool. Avoid a hot car. For prolonged storage, keep the battery at a 40% charge level.

Consider removing the battery from a laptop when running on fixed power. (Some laptop manufacturers are concerned about dust and moisture accumulating inside the battery casing.)

Avoid purchasing spare lithium-ion batteries for later use. Observe manufacturing dates. Do not buy old stock, even if sold at clearance prices.

If you have a spare lithium-ion battery, use one to the fullest and keep the other cool by placing it in the refrigerator. Do not freeze the battery. For best results, store the battery at 40% state-of-charge.

I'm thinking about buying two batteries and using whats mentioned in the the last paragraph. If I buy two, I'll switch them every month or two, to keep both lasting a little longer than this one did, but still have one in all the time. My usage habits make it impractical to have no battery at all. Plus I'll have two for long trips.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba P775-S7100
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5-2450M @2.5 GHz
Memory
6 GB DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD 3000
Monitor(s) Displays
Built-in 17.3" LED; 22" Insignia NS-L22Q-10A
Screen Resolution
1600x900; 1360x768
Hard Drives
750 GB Hitachi
1TB Seagate FreeAgent External
Internet Speed
Verizon DSL Speed(Down/Up): 3360 Kbps / 800 Kbps
Antivirus
MSE and MBAM Pro
Browser
IE10
My last laptop had this problem. I refused to buy another battery if Windows 7 was just gonna damage it. Join the other hundreds of people with this problem. Hopefully my new netbook that came with Windows 7 doesn't mess up like that.

Windows 7 and the battery error "consider replacing your battery" (Part 1)

EDIT: 10 Parts!! Last time I checked that thread, it only got to part 2. Microsoft really needs to do something about it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAF X
OS
Windows 7 Pro 64 Bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 930 @ 3.52
Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R
Memory
6GB G.SKILL PI Series (2x3GB)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX 5970 Black Edition
Monitor(s) Displays
Syncmaster XL2370
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
2X OCZ Vertex 2 60GB RAID0
PSU
CORSAIR HX750
Case
HAF X
Cooling
Thermaltake Frio
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech VX Nano(Old)
Internet Speed
~300kbps Download :'(
Say if I do get a new battery and this happens again a few weeks after (as I have read that this has happened) then what? buy another one?.....again?
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
I'm thinking about buying two batteries and using whats mentioned in the the last paragraph. If I buy two, I'll switch them every month or two, to keep both lasting a little longer than this one did, but still have one in all the time. My usage habits make it impractical to have no battery at all. Plus I'll have two for long trips.

Same here. That's why I need to find a fix. I need mine for work and this problem is really bad. I don't really want to be buying an unnecessary battery if the one I have is fine and Win7 is telling me to change it. I have a feeling it's a fault with Win7.
 

My Computer

OS
Win7
Say if I do get a new battery and this happens again a few weeks after (as I have read that this has happened) then what? buy another one?.....again?

Then you talk to Toshiba. And tell them there hardware or drivers are faulty.
But your battery is old, alright. Your problem is an old battery.

Idon't know if Toshiba does the same but some batteries have indicator lights on them, press and hold it for a few seconds. Or look in the BIOS it will sometimes have information on battery condition unaffected by whatever OS you may have.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Alienware Aurora ALX R4
OS
Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3930K (3.2GHz - 4.5GHz)
Motherboard
Alienware Aurora-R4 x79
Memory
4x Samsung 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (16GB 1600MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce GTX 690
Sound Card
SteelSeries Siberia Elite
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp U3011
Screen Resolution
2560x1600
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB, Seagate 1TB Desktop Hybrid HDD, 2x Western Digital 4TB Green HDD
PSU
875W Some Dell PSU <.<
Case
Alienware Aurora ALX
Cooling
Custom Liquid Cooling (EK CPU & GPU blocks) dual EK 480RAD
Keyboard
Logitech G710+ Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios (50 mbps average)
Other Info
Server: Intel NUC D54250WYK: i5-4250U, 16GB, 256 GB mSATA, Windows Server 2012 R2
I didn't. I drained it a little more, but not 100%. I let it charge, which took about twice as long as it has in the past to recharge, but no change. I was actually hoping something would change so that the OP would have evidence that it worked.

EDIT: I think I mentioned before that my battery has reached the point that my computer doesn't even realize it is there, and needs to be replaced anyway.

Draining fully and recharging has no effect on lithium-ion batteries, they have no memory effect like nickel cadmium batteries do. You can keep a lithium-ion battery powered up all day long and it will not effect it.

Sadly, while this sounds great, it simply isn't true. I deal with batteries from customers every week who leave them plugged in and the batteries are no longer capable of charging....and they are LiOn. We've managed to revive a few by multiple cycles, but not most. Unfortunately, they are just as susceptible to this as NiCad batteries.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate RTM (Technet)
CPU
3.00 gigahertz Intel Core2 Duo E8400
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5K/EPU Rev 1.xx
Memory
4GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon X1950 Pro
Sound Card
Built in HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Gateway LCD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
ST3160023A [Hard drive] (160.04 GB) -- drive 0, rev 8.01, ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 2, rev 3.AAK
ST3500630AS [Hard drive] (500.11 GB) -- drive 1, rev 3.AAK
Keyboard
Logitech G11
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 5000
Internet Speed
13.44 Mbps
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