Solved need suggestions on new hardisk
- Thread starter eviliony
- Start date
The above is new to me. Could someone enlighten me as to the differences on SATA 1, SATA 2 and SATA 3? Thanks,
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writhziden
Closed by request.
As I understand it, hdds do not even use the full capabilities of SATA 2, so SATA 3 versus SATA 2 regarding an hdd does not really make a difference. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong. I am writing this from memory based on something one of the Gurus said on these forums.
See post #8 and post #9.
See post #8 and post #9.
Last edited:
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You are absolutely correct. No mechanical hard drive can break the sata 2 barrier much less sata 3. It was only fairly recently that SSDs could break the barrier. In my opinion, there is no sense in paying more for a sata 3 mechanical hard drive. Sata 2 hard drives will be just as fast.
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My last "cheap" Seagate Barracuda was a sata 3. I just noticed by chance then realized it meant nothing really.
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If I am buying a HD, do I have to make sure it is a SATA 2 and not a SATA 1 or is there no SATA 1 on the market now?
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- OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
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I believe that finding a new SATA 1 drive at this time is highly unlikely.
I believe that the Sata 1, 2, and 3 designations are unofficial. They're SATA 1.5, 3, and 6 Gbps. 1.5Gbps is over 187 MBps, which is fast enough for many mechanical drives. That was good enough for the original Raptor (10,000 RPM) drives from Western Digital.
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I think SATA 2 (3Gb/s) is the de facto baseline now so I'd go with that but in this old test it appears the difference between SATA 1 (1.5Gb/s) and SATA 2 is marginal at best.
SATA vs SATA II
This gives a better description of SATA 1,2,3
Serial ATA - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
My conclusion: Pick a Sata 2 for a spinner (if it's sata 3 compatible fine but won't make a difference)
SATA vs SATA II
This gives a better description of SATA 1,2,3
Serial ATA - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
My conclusion: Pick a Sata 2 for a spinner (if it's sata 3 compatible fine but won't make a difference)
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If your question was would it work, any sata drive will work they are all backward compatible.
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It was a certain build period defined by the serial numbers, any of them outside those specific serial numbers are working just fine, I have a 7200.11 as a primary HDD in one of my computers and have had good performance with it for three years.
Firmware Update for Seagate 7200.11
This was around Jan '09.
Some of the new hard drives are SATA revision 3.0 (SATA 6 Gbit/s) and can't reach SATA revision 2.0 speeds.
I bought a new HDD, just before the price increase, and recently discovered it is a SATA 6 Gbit/s model. Can't say that I notice any difference in performance.
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So did I and you won't notice any difference. But then given backward compatibility (3Gb/s should work in a 6Gb/s port) I fail to see the point unless it is an assurance of backward compatibility.
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Hi.. So i followed u guys advices and bought myself the WD 2TB caviar black..
I do full-format for its first use and stupid me that i connect it using hdd adapter and usb 2.0..
The format process so slow.. I guess theres no turning back now ryte since its been running 20% and i dont want to risk by cancelling it so i just might better off wait tho its gonna take a very loonngg time
But its still gonna run fine ryte whether i format it using sata or adapter? Its only the time taken that differs ryte? Afraid that i might risk the disk.. Im getting paranoid now lol
I do full-format for its first use and stupid me that i connect it using hdd adapter and usb 2.0..
The format process so slow.. I guess theres no turning back now ryte since its been running 20% and i dont want to risk by cancelling it so i just might better off wait tho its gonna take a very loonngg time
But its still gonna run fine ryte whether i format it using sata or adapter? Its only the time taken that differs ryte? Afraid that i might risk the disk.. Im getting paranoid now lol
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A "quick format" takes only seconds. A "full format" will take several hours. I never heard of a problem in cancelling an in-progress full format, but it's your choice.
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I'd just let it run.
Furthermore for a new HDD I'd be even more patient and run a full scan for bad blocks (~ 4 hours for 2TB depending on PC). Given the price of HDDs now if I get bad blocks, the HDD gets returned.
Furthermore for a new HDD I'd be even more patient and run a full scan for bad blocks (~ 4 hours for 2TB depending on PC). Given the price of HDDs now if I get bad blocks, the HDD gets returned.
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Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1Intel i7 2600kG.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GBNvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 300...
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- Own build
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- Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
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- Intel i7 2600k
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- ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
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- G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
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- Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
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- Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
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- 1920x1080
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- Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
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- Seasonic M12II 520W
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- Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
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- Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
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- Logitech MK520 (wireless)
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- Logitech MK520
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- 6-7 Mbps
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- Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
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- Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
and i have been running the full format for almost 12 hours and it is so slow that it is now with 33% ... lol i should hv known that using the adapter will slow the process... now im just gonna wait :sigh:
so after its been formatted i wiill run the chkdsk on it?
so after its been formatted i wiill run the chkdsk on it?
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That is too long.
I suggest you stop it and do
(1) Disk Clean (NOT Clean all)
(2) a quick format. Set disk primary NTFS.
(3) file system check (should be minutes)
(4) a scan for bad blocks. Now this will take time but you will get progress feedback.
If these processes are confusing to you get back.
I suggest you stop it and do
(1) Disk Clean (NOT Clean all)
(2) a quick format. Set disk primary NTFS.
(3) file system check (should be minutes)
(4) a scan for bad blocks. Now this will take time but you will get progress feedback.
If these processes are confusing to you get back.
My Computer
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Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1Intel i7 2600kG.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GBNvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 300...
- Computer type
- PC/Desktop
- Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
- Own build
- OS
- Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
- CPU
- Intel i7 2600k
- Motherboard
- ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
- Memory
- G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
- Graphics Card(s)
- Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
- Monitor(s) Displays
- Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
- Screen Resolution
- 1920x1080
- Hard Drives
- Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
- PSU
- Seasonic M12II 520W
- Case
- Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
- Cooling
- Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
- Keyboard
- Logitech MK520 (wireless)
- Mouse
- Logitech MK520
- Internet Speed
- 6-7 Mbps
- Antivirus
- Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
- Browser
- FireFox
- Other Info
- Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
okay... im formatting it via disk management and i dont know how to stop it.. there is no button or anything for me to click and yes it is too long... now it on 46% ... 
secondly what do u mean by disk clean? the HDD is still new..
and a system check? is it scan disk? as well as step no.4?
secondly what do u mean by disk clean? the HDD is still new..
and a system check? is it scan disk? as well as step no.4?
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