PC won't boot, making a clicking noise

missionman

New member
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Hey guys,

Recently came home from work and found my computer turned off (it was on when I left) I figured a simple Windows update...but to my dismay when I came to turn on my computer I heard this weird clicking noise (see video) I need to specify that the sound IS NOT emanating from the hard drives. In the video I disconnected the power source to all peripheral devices (Bluray drive, graphics card, hard drives) and the sound remains. The computer will not boot. I've also read in some other forums that this type of clicking noise (with about a 3 second gap) would indicate a RAM issue. I've removed all my RAM sticks but one, and then tried again...the sound remains (I tried this using another stick to avoid the chance that the stick I left in there was the defective one). I should also note that in this video I have not pressed the power button located at the front of the computer, I have tried this, and nothing happens (clicking sound ensues) the blue light for power goes on and off at the same frequency as the power on the motherboard.

I'm a little dumbfounded at the moment. Does anyone have any ideas?

Here's the youtube link, it may offer more information
YouTube - Computer won't boot, making a clicking sound.AVI

Here are my computer's specs (copy pasted from this site)
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU: i7 960
Motherboard: Gigabyte X58A-UD7 LGA 1366
Memory: 12GB DDR3 Crucial
Graphics Card(s): XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 765 MHz 1GB DDR5

Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB
Western Digital My Book Home Edition 1TB
Western Digital My Book 1TB

Case: Antec p193
Cooling: Nexus FLC-3000 92MM CPU Heatsink
Power Supply: Antec CP-850
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i7 960
Motherboard
Gigabyte UD7 LGA 1366
Memory
12GB DDR3 Crucial
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 765 MHz 1GB DDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Samsung
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB
Western Digital My Book Home Edition 1TB
Western Digital My Book 1TB
Case
Antec p193
Cooling
Nexus FLC-3000 92MM CPU Heatsink
You have what is known as the click of death.

Basically, your hard drive is dying.... If there is anything on there you want, get it into another computer QUICKLY and make backups. and then replace it.... obviously

Click of death - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Medion Erazer (note to self: insert model number) - with custom additions
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i5 7400 @ 3.00GHz
Motherboard
OEM supllied with PC
Memory
8GB 2133Mhz DDR4 (OEM supplied)
Graphics Card(s)
Gygabyte Windforce GTX 1050Ti (Factory Overclocked)
Sound Card
Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer Al1980 + HKC
Screen Resolution
1360*768(HKC) / 1280*1024(Acer)
Hard Drives
1TB Toshiba
1TB WD Caviar Green
120GB Samsung Evo 840
PSU
OEM supplied (no power rating on case)
Case
OEM Supplied
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless
Mouse
Logitect Wireless
Internet Speed
40Mb/s Down 10Mb/s Up
Antivirus
Defender
Browser
Firefox

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i7 960
Motherboard
Gigabyte UD7 LGA 1366
Memory
12GB DDR3 Crucial
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 765 MHz 1GB DDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Samsung
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB
Western Digital My Book Home Edition 1TB
Western Digital My Book 1TB
Case
Antec p193
Cooling
Nexus FLC-3000 92MM CPU Heatsink
Could be Power supply tripping on and off
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built Custom Computer.
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
i7-4770K
Motherboard
Asus Z87 Sabertooth
Memory
16Gig DDR3-2400
Graphics Card(s)
Gigabyte GT740
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Benq 27" - Dell 23' - Benq 22"
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 128g SSD
1xWestern Digital Caviar Green 1tb
2xWestern Digital Caviar Green 2 tb
PSU
Seasonic 760 watt Platinum
Case
Coolermaster Haf - X
Cooling
Noctua NH-C12P CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech illuminated keyboard
Mouse
Logitech Perfomance MX
Internet Speed
Cable = speeds to 20Mbps downsteam and 512kbps upsteam
Antivirus
Avast Internet Security
Browser
Firefox
My first guess would be Power Supply. Here is a link for a testing method. The trick is to short pin 15 (Black - Ground) & 16 (Green - Power On) on the 24pin power connector and this should allow the power supply to come on. You can check the voltages with a meter or a quick test would be to plug in a fan to the power supply. Read the instruction and if you have any questions, please post back before testing.

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ht/power-supply-test-multimeter.htm

Here is a quick Tutorial on this site. Check it out first.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/86648-psu-jump-start.html?ltr=P

Jim :geek:
 
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My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro w/Media Center 64bit, Windows 7 HP 64bit
CPU
Phenom II X6 1100T
Motherboard
ASUS M5A99X EVO
Memory
Crucial Balistic 8gb DDR3-1866 CL9
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R6850 Cyclone IGD5 PE
Sound Card
On Board
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VE258Q 25" LED with DVI-HDMI-DisplayPort
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
Two WD Cavier Black 2TB Sata III, WD My Book Essential 2TB USB 3.0
PSU
Seasonic X650 80 Plus GOLD Modular
Case
Corsair 400R
Cooling
Antec Kuhler H2O 620, Two 120mm and four 140mm
Keyboard
Logitech K120
Mouse
Logitech Marble Mouse USB, Logitech Precision Game Pad
Internet Speed
15MB
Antivirus
Norton IS 2013, Malwarebytes Pro Beta 2
Browser
IE-11, FF-27
Other Info
APC UPS ES 750, Netgear WNR3500L Gigabit & Wireless N Router with SamKnows Test Program, Motorola SB6120 Gigabit Cable Modem. Brother HL-2170W Laser Printer, Epson V300 Scanner
My first guess would be Power Supply. Here is a link for a testing method. The trick is to short pin 15 (Black - Ground) & 16 (Green - Power On) on the 24pin power connector and this should allow the power supply to come on. You can check the voltages with a meter or a quick test would be to plug in a fan to the power supply. Read the instruction and if you have any questions, please post back before testing.

PSU Test - How to Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter - Test PSU

Here is a quick Tutorial on this site. Check it out first.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/86648-psu-jump-start.html?ltr=P

Jim :geek:

Thanks alot for the response Jim,

I will be doing the test later on it the day. But just to clarify, would the "Click Of Death" still occur even if power as been cut-off from the drives? It seems logical that it wouldn't but I've been surprised by weirder things when it comes to the internal workings of this fascinating machine we call our computer.
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i7 960
Motherboard
Gigabyte UD7 LGA 1366
Memory
12GB DDR3 Crucial
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 765 MHz 1GB DDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Samsung
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB
Western Digital My Book Home Edition 1TB
Western Digital My Book 1TB
Case
Antec p193
Cooling
Nexus FLC-3000 92MM CPU Heatsink
No it wouldn't :) sorry missionman... that was me not reading the thread properly. I saw "the computers clicking" and assumed "Click of Death"
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Medion Erazer (note to self: insert model number) - with custom additions
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i5 7400 @ 3.00GHz
Motherboard
OEM supllied with PC
Memory
8GB 2133Mhz DDR4 (OEM supplied)
Graphics Card(s)
Gygabyte Windforce GTX 1050Ti (Factory Overclocked)
Sound Card
Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer Al1980 + HKC
Screen Resolution
1360*768(HKC) / 1280*1024(Acer)
Hard Drives
1TB Toshiba
1TB WD Caviar Green
120GB Samsung Evo 840
PSU
OEM supplied (no power rating on case)
Case
OEM Supplied
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless
Mouse
Logitect Wireless
Internet Speed
40Mb/s Down 10Mb/s Up
Antivirus
Defender
Browser
Firefox
It could be the power supply fan if it has ball bearing or a component is failing in the PSU. Did you find out why it was off, i.e. family member, power failure, lightning storm etc?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DELL XPS Studio 435T
OS
Vista 64 Ultimate, Windows 7 64 Ultimate, Ubuntu 9.10
CPU
i7 975 3.3 GHz Extreme (Factory OC'd to 3.6 GHz)
Motherboard
DELL provided
Memory
18 Gb Tri-Channel 1066
Graphics Card(s)
ATI 5970 2048 Mb
Sound Card
X-Fi Extreme Gamer
Monitor(s) Displays
Vizio 37" HD-TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
1.5 Tb HDD
1.5 Tb HDD
2.0 Tb Network Drive
512 Gb Crucial SSD
PSU
DELL Provided 475 watts
Case
DELL
Cooling
3 fans
Keyboard
Logitech Performance K350 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech Performance MX Wireless
Internet Speed
3 Mb up 750 Kb down
Other Info
Bamboo Fun Tablet, Belkin N+ Wireless router, Pioneer Dolby System Wireless Headphones, Bose 5.1 Dolby Surround Sound System, LifeCam VX 3000 Webcam, Blu-Ray/Hi Def DVD +RW combo and Blu-ray +RW,l 15 in 1 media card reader, Logitech Rumblepad 2, Hauppauge 2250 DTV Tuner with MS Media Center Remote

Laptop:Alienware M17x, Q9100 CPU, 8Gb RAM, 1920x1200 WUXGA LCD driven by 4870's in CrossFireX, Bl

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built
OS
Windows 7 Ult, Windows 8.1 Pro,
CPU
Q9650-4.275GHz, E8600 4.5GHz, E6750-3.8GHz
Motherboard
Evga 780i FTW
Memory
G.Skill PC2 9600 1200Mhz 5 5 5 15 2T
Graphics Card(s)
GTX480
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2
Monitor(s) Displays
HannsG
Screen Resolution
1680X1050
Hard Drives
GSkill Phoenix Pro 120GB SSD
PSU
ThermalTake Toughpower 1000Watt modular
Case
ThermalTake XaserV
Cooling
Xigmatek S1283
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech G9
Internet Speed
T1

thats the video I posted....

After doing the testing as Jim so elegantly explained the problem seems to be surprisingly, and sadly isolated to my motherboard.

I first used the multimeter to get power read-outs for the power supply and everythying checked out fine.

1. I took my cp-850 and put it in another computer and it booted up fine.

2. Took another power supply and put it in my desktop that is the source of the problem and the same "click on/off" problem continued to occur.

At this point since nothing else was connected to my computer other than the PSU and the motherboard. I find it hard not to say that the motherboard is not the source of the problem. I'll be contacting Gigabyte shortly to get a replacement.

OHH FUN!

THanks to everyone for their help
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i7 960
Motherboard
Gigabyte UD7 LGA 1366
Memory
12GB DDR3 Crucial
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 765 MHz 1GB DDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
32" Samsung
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB
Western Digital My Book Home Edition 1TB
Western Digital My Book 1TB
Case
Antec p193
Cooling
Nexus FLC-3000 92MM CPU Heatsink
clicking optical drive at start up no monitor activity

Clicking optical drive along with flashing orange processor light blinking simultaneously with blue light on Blu-ray drive. About 2 clicks a second. No monitor activity just clicking and blinking.

This is an 8-9 year old ADK (love their products btw) video editing bay with Windows 7 / dual processor 24gb ram. All original components except for video card and optical drive.

Turned on one day and heard clicking sound (2 clicks a second) from Blu-ray drive. Positively the optical drive clicking and not the OS drive. The orange processor light on case and blue light on Blu-ray burner would flash simultaneously with click. No monitor activity.

What I did:

After Googling issue I proceeded to:
Removed all ram and compressed air canned all slots
Compressed air canned entire case
Replaced motherboard battery
Disconnected optical drive before a test start up
Tried 2 different keyboards in case of a stuck key

No luck...

What I contemplated next was resetting BIOS by removing motherboard battery for 5 minutes.

But, before I did I:

turned off PC by pressing start button for 5 seconds
pulled a/c plug from wall and had the PC sit an hour
Pressed start button while unplugged for 5 seconds.
Plugged in and pressed start button. It click click clicked for 3 seconds then started up. Couldn't get F1 or F2 to access BIOS unless I wasn't fast enough with the key tapping. After booting the PC works normal.

Unplugging for an hour then it miraculously starting prompted me to narrow it down to a power supply problem. I've read they can weaken as they age. I had nothing to lose so replaced with an EVGA Supernova 1000 G2 80plus gold and like butter it started with no clicks or blinks.

A few months Before the clicking and flashing started I had an incident while in Premiere editing HD 60p. The NVIDIA prompt window popped up and told me the card stopped working.... Really dont remember exactly what it said but after that incident I could not edit 60p without the timeline stuttering forward and backward. That was when the power supply lost a rail or something sinister. I hope this helps out anyone experiencing the same problem I was having. Good luck and stay calm when troubleshooting. There's always a solution out there.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ADK turnkey editing bay
OS
Windows 7 pro 64 bit
Memory
24
This is what I would do: (I'm considering that you have a small beep speaker on the MB)
- Remove the power cord from the PS and wait 1 min to capacitors discharge
- Disconnect from the MB: Drives (HDD and ODD), all memory, Graphics card, keyboard and mouse.
- Connect the power cord to the PS and press start.
- You should hear 3 beeps (no memory). If you don't, you probably have a problem on the PS, MB or CPU's. Measure the PS voltages. Replace the PS if you don't have a voltmeter.
- If you hear the 3 beeps (no memory), Remove the power cord from the PS and wait 1 min to capacitors discharge, and insert one memory stick. Try to boot.
Report

Computer POST and beep codes
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
If you closely read my entire post you'll see that my problem was resolved by replacing the PSU. It was a shot in the dark. This post was drafted for future PC users (especially 60P 1080 + 4K editors using CC Adobe Premiere) having issues similar to mine. Thank you for your time in advance.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ADK turnkey editing bay
OS
Windows 7 pro 64 bit
Memory
24
YES, I did a closely read on your post.
You took a whole page to describe a problem, that for me wasn't solved. It isn't clear.

As you post it to help other people, can you please explain how a PSU failure is specifically connected to software (especially 60P 1080 + 4K editors using CC Adobe Premiere) ?
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
Sorry for taking up a whole webpage Megahertz. It's not like I'm using up any ink. This was an ongoing 4 month troubleshoot. I Googled and thoroughly read all posts having the issues I was having but no one really had the answer or solved the problem. In this case it could have been any of the usual suspects. I replaced PSU as a last resort hoping and praying it wasnt the motherboard. My prayers were answered. Come to find out a weak power supply will cause 4K and 1080 60P 4:2:2 10bit at 100mbps video to lag or stutter on your timeline or source window. The higher end video cards need that extra power to handle this task. A weak PSU cannot deliver the juice so my intention as a digital video editor was to hip others to look for these signs. True professional Editing bays are really expensive and we don't like to replace them or have them disabled when deadlines are looming. This post was to help an editor like me to quickly troubleshoot and resolve. Your original reply post to my first post will help other editors as well. We thank you for taking the time to reply.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ADK turnkey editing bay
OS
Windows 7 pro 64 bit
Memory
24
Despite of your best intentions, your text wasn't clear.
The issue with the weak power source isn't related to the software but to the graphics card.
All powerful Graphics card has a minimum PS requirement.
What I'm saying is that the problem you faced would have happen with any demanding software like games, Photoshop, Autocad rendering etc on a computer with powerful Graphics card with a weak PS.
 

My Computers My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
Are you happy you got the last word in hertz? Editors rely on their editing bays working at 100%. Most of us aren't gamers and our editing bays are our main tool. If I can help one fellow editor out there which was my intention and not to irritate you then this was worth my time posting. When your editing bay is down panic sets in. Hoping this will help another editor cut through the weeds and get back up and running again. Gimme a break bro.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ADK turnkey editing bay
OS
Windows 7 pro 64 bit
Memory
24
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