BSOD When playing games - Driver related.

[Chronox]

Hi Noel, thanks for the response.

Well in my case it says "Windows Vista", but It came with Windows XP when i Bought it.

And I installed Windows 7 from a DvD a friend lend me wich was licensed for his company, including the keys and all that.

Should I go back to XP ? (I dont like Vista, it drains a lot of resources :C )

And does updating my system BIOS will fix this issues ?

Thanks !

 

[NoelDP]

Unless you bought the 'upgrade' the machine is only ever licensed for the version and edition of Windows on the COA sticker.
A volume License can ONLY be used in conjunction with a valid Pro COA sticker, and the versions/edition you currently have installed was one which was blocked from activation even before the launch of WIndows 7. ( - sorry - confused threads there!)
No matter how acquired, this installation cannot be genuine.

Your system specs say 2.5 GB RAM - this is an odd configuration, as one would expect anything above 1GB to be in whole numbers. This probably means that you have a 512MB stick and either 2x1GB sticks, or 512MB and 1x2GB stick - and is likely to be unstable as a result, in Win7.

Yes, you should revert back to XP, and (if you want) purchase a legal upgrade to Win7, assuming your system passes all the tests in the Upgrade advisor.

Note that if you do go for the Win7, you will need either a FUll Retail license, or a full Upgrade (not an Anytime Upgrade)

The current install has to be considered compromised by the presence of the Activation Exploit - nothing will gurantee that your system is clear until you reformat and reinstall with whatever legal OS you elect to use.

 

[Chronox]

I see, maybe that explains why my 2 512 MB DDR2 RAM died lol.

I will try to revert back to windows XP since vista is a bit ugly,

Thanks for the help people, I will post back when everything is done.

 

[Chronox]

BUMPY !

Now I have Win XP Professional SP3, installed all drivers and after a few days, the BSODs appeared again, and now they are more annoying, my PC freezed once and crashes randomly...

I would really like to change my PC but i dont have the cash to do so..

Maybe if guys can help me with analyzing this minidump file I attached we can detect the problem.

BTW I notice that my Nvidia driver uses a file named nv4_mini.sys and I investigated a bit and found that some PCs had problem with this file, any suggestions ?

 

[writhziden]

Analysis:

Realtek Audio:

One of your crashes pointed to Realtek Audio; update the drivers for your Realtek HD Audio device from your motherboard support site.​

avast!:

The other crash blames avast!. Remove avast! with the avast! Uninstall Utility and replace with either of these:

• Microsoft Security Essentials - Free Antivirus for Windows coupled with Malwarebytes. Do not start the free trial of Malwarebytes. Just use the standalone version, update it, and scan your computer once a week with Malwarebytes and with Microsoft Security Essentials.
  
  
• http://www.sevenforums.com/system-s...-system-security-combination.html#post1732627

The replacing avast! is just to test. It may not be the actual problem but is masking the true problem. MSE is less likely to do so.​

Hardware:

The Realtek related crash directly implicated hardware as the cause: Run some hardware checks.

• If you are overclocking any hardware, please stop.
  
  
• If you have an SSD, make sure the following are up to date:
  • SSD firmware
  • BIOS Version
  • Chipset Drivers
  • Hard disk controller drivers/SATA drivers
  • If you have a Marvell IDE ATA/ATAPI device, make sure the drivers are up to date from the Intel site or Marvell site and not from your motherboard/vendor support site.
  
  
• Run all but the advanced tests with SeaTools for HDDs.
  SeaTools for Windows
  
  SeaTools for DOS​
  
  
• Monitor temperatures during the following tests.
  
  Use the following programs to monitor the temperatures.​
  • Real Temp is a good CPU temperature monitor.
  • Speccy - System Information - Free Download will monitor all hardware temperatures.
  • HWiNFO, HWiNFO32 & HWiNFO64 - Hardware Information and Analysis Tools can be inaccurate for CPU temperatures, but is a good program for GPU temperature monitoring.
  • Use FurMark: VGA Stress Test, Graphics Card and GPU Stability Test, Burn-in Test, OpenGL Benchmark and GPU Temperature | oZone3D.Net to test the graphics card GPU. Let it run until the GPU temperatures even out or until the GPU temperatures reach a dangerous level (you can find the max temperature for your card on either the nVidia or AMD sites; if you are not sure, ask us). The goal is to get a steady temperature, find out if the GPU is overheating, or to see if there are any artifacts present in the test itself: look for strange pixelated patterns on the screen or colors that do not look like they belong. Then use the |MG| Video Memory Stress Test 1.7.116 Download to test your graphics card memory. Let the memory test run for at least seven passes; the more the better.
    
    
  • Run http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/100352-hardware-stress-test-prime95.html to determine any hardware problems. Run all three tests for a few hours each. If you get errors, stop the test and post back here.
    
    
  • Follow the steps for doing CPU stress test using IntelBurnTest
  
  
• Run the boot version of Memtest86+ paying close attention to Parts 2 and 3 of the tutorial. Also, in case Memtest86+ misses anything and comes up with no errors, run the extended version of the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool for at least five passes. These you may want to run overnight since they take a long time to complete (run them an hour before bed each of the next two nights and check before going to sleep that they are still running).
  
  
     Warning

  Before you proceed with the following, answer these two questions: Are you still under warranty? Does your warranty allow you to open up the machine to check hardware? If you are unsure of the answers to these questions, contact your system manufacturer. :warn:WARNING: The steps that follow can void your warranty!!!
  
  
  For Part 3: If You Have Errors: If you swap any memory components, follow these steps for ESD safety:
  1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
  2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
  3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
  4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.
  Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[Chronox]

Hi Mike (Sorry I looked at your profile lol)

1)I followed your instructions, Reinstalled Realtek HD driver with the CORRECT ONE, same with Avast, I unistalled it folowing your instructions, and installed MSE. After that I installed SeaTools but looks like I cant perform tests idk why.

2) Downloaded and ran FurMark Benchmark for half an hour (99% gpu usage), the max temperature achieved was 74 C (stable) and my GPU max temperature is 105 C so I think its fine.

Last night I could play for hours and hours without problems, until today my PC froze multiple, times and gave me a PAGE_FAULT_IN_NON_PAGED_AREA BSOD (No minidump because my PC froze during the BSOD lol).

3)So today I ran IntelBurninTest and I recieved an error (results), it seems that my CPU is unstable due to temperatures (now it makes sense why it crashes more during the day, it is very hot here in Barranquilla during the day: 28-34 C !! )

I will attach the CPU BURN IN THEST results here, thanks for your time Mike.

 

[NoelDP]

Seatools is VERY picky about the installed language - it fails for me when I use English (British), rather than English(US) as the host language!
If you're using a language outside the very narrow selection it supports, try adding the base language and see if it helps.

 

[Chronox]

Well that will be hard, Im using a Spanish version of XP, and it seems I cant set it to English unless I reinstall windows...Again.

=(

 

[NoelDP]

So long as it's Spanish (Espagna), rather than Latin-American Spanish, you should be OK.

You can always download Seatools for DOS, create the boot disk, and run that

 

[Chronox]

Hi ppl. Well I skipped the SeaTools analysis and focused on the overheating problems.

Yesterday I turned my room`s air conditioner, until night, no BSOD, crashes,freezes, and today I opened the ATX case sideways to keep it cool without an air conditioner, and nope im not gettin more BSODs, Freezes or anything.

I think its jsut my CPU overheating.. And its really hot here where I live... I will report back later if anything happens. (hope not.)

ATTACHMENT: Interl Burnin Test with The case open, without air conditioner in use.

 

[writhziden]

That does sound fairly conclusive, but it is difficult to know for sure given the small amount of time that has passed with adequate cooling. Let us know after you have had a chance to test more (by doing your normal routine with better cooling) whether that does solve the problem.

Also, when is the last time you removed dust from the system?

Dust Removal:

To remove dust, follow the subsequent general procedure. If you have a desktop bought from Dell, HP, Sony, Lenovo, etc. make sure removing the desktop casing will not void your warranty first. Call the company if you are still under warranty and ask if it is okay to remove the casing and blow dust out. The procedure described is fine for laptops; just make sure no stickers are on panels saying if you remove the panel it will void the warranty.

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Remove the casing for a desktop, or remove any screwed on panels and disc drives for laptops.
5. Blow out the dust inside by using a can of compressed air or a low pressure compressor. You will want to put the computer on a desk or table so you can maintain the can in an upright position if using a can of air. Blow into all crevices on the motherboard, heat sinks, cards, modules, etc. for a desktop. Blow into vents, opened panels, disc drive areas, USB ports, and the keyboard if it is a laptop. You may also want to blow inside the disc drive by replacing the drive to the laptop, starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step. For a desktop, you may also want to blow inside the disc drive by starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step.
6. Replace casing for the desktop. Replace panels and disc drive (if you have not already done so) for the laptop.
7. Plug power supplies in. AC adapter for the desktop. Battery and then AC Adapter for the laptop.
8. Start the computer and see if performance is better.

Easier Laptop steps:

1. Get a can of compressed air...
2. Shut down and turn off your system...
3. Unplug the system from any docking stations...
4. Remove the AC Adapter and then remove the battery...
5. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to ensure all power is drained from the components. This closes the circuit and allows any remaining power to dissipate; it also clears the temporary memory of corruption and resets hardware/software connections. No permanent changes are made to the system doing this step...
6. Use the can of compressed air to blow into every vent, crevice, keyboard key, USB port, VGA/monitor port, etc...
7. Replace the battery and then plug in the AC Adapter...
8. Replace the docking station...
9. See how the system runs after doing all these steps...

   Warning

:warn:WARNING: Never use a vacuum cleaner or hair drier to clean dust out of your system!!

 

[Chronox]

Hi Mike.

Its been days and PC didnt crash once... Until today...

I was just surfing the web(NOT GAMING), just in firefox) and got a BSOD: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

Minidump Attached to this post.

I think the overheating was just 1 problem, maybe I got more than 1 or 2. But the BSOD just happened once in days.

Thanks for the help !

UPDATE: PC crashed 2 and 3 times now, once when booting windows after another crash, all of them BSOD.

 

[writhziden]

Do you have the latest version of SpeedFan installed? I see a very old driver from 1996 installed that may cause conflicts even on XP.

Also, did you install XP fresh after removing Windows 7?

One of your crashes is pointing to your HD Audio driver as the cause. Re-install/update your Realtek HD Audio drivers.


I am wondering about a possible IMU failure to your processor. What RAM configuration are you running?

 

[Chronox]

Hi Mike ! Thaanks for the reply.

Well im running version 4.46 for speedfan, and wich driver is from 1996, maybe I can update it or something.

Yes, I installed XP after deleting EVERYTHIGN from the harddrive, fresh install.

I also reinstalled a "more appropiate" driver version for my sound card ( Integrated Realtek ALC888S Audio ) Minutes later after having those BSODs, no more BSODs so far.

Uhm, about my RAM configuration, well idk what are you asking precisely for, but I use Two 1GB DDR2 RAM Sticks (SAMSUNG) @ 333 MHz.

 

[writhziden]

Alright, just wanted to make sure the 512 MB RAM was removed. Sounds good. I'd still like a little more info about the RAM config, though:

Download and install CPU-Z and Upload screenshots of the CPU, Mainboard, Memory, and SPD tabs. In the SPD tab, upload an image of each slot.​

Let us know how things go after a few days with the sound card drivers.

 

[Chronox]

Hi Mike, here are my CPU-Z screenies !

*Attached* The 2nd slot for the SPD tab is EXACTLY the same, except for the Serial number,
BTW what can I do about the old driver thingy ?

 

[writhziden]

From what I was told, that old driver does not typically cause problems, so leave it for now.

You need to upload an image of the other slots under the SPD tab.

 

[Chronox]

Here, lol I told you it was the same

No crashes so far.

 

[writhziden]

Good news on stability. I just wanted to check the Week/Year to make sure they matched. Many users think the RAM is the same even if it is bought/manufactured at different times. Methods change in manufacturing that can sometimes cause conflicts if RAM is bought at different times, so I always like to make sure. Yours looks good!

 

[Chronox]

Thats good news, and good news here too, no BSODs so far, if things continue as this I think I will mark the thread as solved

Thanks for the help Mike.