Building a Custom desktop PC.

What about this as videocard?
489507.jpg


EVGA GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 - 55nm
(896 MB)
:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:I WANT:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

~Lordbob
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hera
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Mint 9
CPU
Intel i5-2500k
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Memory
2x 4Gb Corsair VENGEANCE DDR3-1600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GeForce N260GTX Twin Frozr
Sound Card
Realtek HD OnBoard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS 24" Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
G.SKILL Phoenix Series 60GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3R 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA II
PSU
Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W
Case
Cooler Master Haf 932
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Razer Tarantula
Mouse
Razer Lachesis
Internet Speed
not fast enough
:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:I WANT:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

~Lordbob
This is the videocard that's in my Baby, Crysis @ 1680+1050 High Setting 2XAA 50+ FPS. On the snow mission coming out the mount 35+ FPS blow up the shacks down the hill at the same time 5+ FPS this card to me is the best bang for the buck Vs ATI HD 4850 that $399.99 on NCIX.ca
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Visiontek Radeon HD 4870 512MB GDDR5 PCI-E DVI-I HDMI VGA Video Card [/FONT]SKU: 30825. Nvidia got the New GTX 275 coming out soon so this card's price may drop.

If You feel I Helped Please Rep!! Thanks ;)
 

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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
PowerUsers build there Computer's
OS
Windows 7 Professional (64-bit)
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 45nm (Codename: Penryn)
Motherboard
ASUS P5Q Pro - P45 Chipset
Memory
OCZ PC2 8500 SLI 1066MHz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 670 (Codename: Kepler)
Sound Card
RealtekI ACL1200
Monitor(s) Displays
2X Acer V223W
Screen Resolution
1680+1050
Hard Drives
3x Western Digital Black (1TB)
PSU
PC Power & Cooling 610W Silencer
Case
Cooler Master HAF 912
Cooling
Zlaman CNPS9700
Keyboard
Logitech G110
Mouse
Logitech MX518
Internet Speed
6.5 Mbps Speedtest.net
Antivirus
What is a Antivirus?
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
So should i get the card? (EVGA GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 - 55nm
(896 MB)
)
 
You could check out Ino3D's offerings, that's what I have and it goes pretty good.

Inno3D Geforce GTX 260 GOLD OC

gtx260gold_oc.jpg



  • ProductInno3D Geforce GTX 260 GOLD OC
  • Processor CoresGTX 260
  • Graphics Clock (MHz)620
  • Processor Clock (MHz)1242Mhz
  • Memory Clock (MHz)2100Mhz
  • Memory Amount896 Mb
  • Memory Interface 448 bit
  • Memory Bandwidth (GB/sec)111.9
  • Texture Fill Rate (billion/sec) 36.9

  • 1. A PCI-Express compliant motherboard with full size expension slot
    2. 6-pin PCI Express supplementary power connector
    3. Minimum 400W or greater system power supply (with 12V current rating of 25A)
Note: 1. PCB, components, specification and packing are subjected to change without notice

This ones not to bad either

gtx_295_oc.jpg


  • Overview
  • Features
  • Specification
  • Download
Inno3D® are excited to launch 2 unrivaled graphics cards, the Inno3D® GeForce GTX 295 and Inno3D® GeForce GTX 285 that are built with the 2nd Generation NVIDIA® Unified Architecture and ready for all the advance features of Graphics Plus™.
Go Beyond HD

Take your DirectX 10 gaming beyond HD, with the power of Inno3D® GeForce® GTX 285. Place yourself in the center of the action and experience true gaming cinema in extreme HD (2560x1600) resolutions – all enabled by GeForce 200 series second generation unified architecture, NVIDIA SLI® technology, and incredible out-of-the-box performance for the latest games including Far Cry 2, Mirror’s Edge, and Call of Duty: World at War. With over 50% more performance than prior generation GPUs, Inno3D® GeForce GTX 285 tear through complex DirectX 10 environments and cinematic effects at blazing frame rates in beyond HD resolutions.
Experience Graphics Plus™

The Inno3D® GeForce GTX 285 with CUDA™ technology not only provides a best-in-class gaming experience, it also delivers Graphics Plus™. Experience jaw-dropping PhysX™ gaming effects, Stereoscopic 3D, and lightning fast video and image processing all accelerated by the GPU. Whether it’s experiencing a new world of realistic physical motion and massively destructible environments, strapping on your GeForce 3D Vision™ glasses to game in true Stereoscopic 3D, transcoding HD videos in minutes to your portable video player, or rapidly editing digital images using Adobe CS4, the Inno3D® GeForce GTX 285 does it all with incredible performance.
Power Multiple Monitors with Multiple GPUs

Put the power of the Inno3D® GTX 295 to work across multi-monitors and unleash an awesome dual screen 3D experience. Use one monitor for the up-close action while commanding your armies on the second monitor, or experience full-screen multi-GPU gaming performance on your primary monitor, while keeping tabs on your IM and email. With the Inno3D® GeForce GTX 295, you won’t miss a beat in the virtual world, or the real world.
Inno3D® GeForce GTX 295 and Inno3D® GeForce GTX 285 are the fastest and build with the most advance technologies in the market. We have also bundled Warmonger (ready for NVIDIA® PhysX technology) full version game. With outstanding performance and extreme game play we are definitely hanging on the edge of our seats to see what is installed in 2009.



  • 2nd Generation NVIDIA® Unified Architecture
    The 240 enhanced processor cores that provide incredible shading horsepower is achieved via delivery of the second generation architecture with 50% more gaming performance over the first generation.
  • NVIDIA PhysX™ Ready
    GeForce GPU support for NVIDIA PhysX technology - enabling a totally new class of physical gaming interaction for a more dynamic and realistic experience with GeForce. The PhysX processor is noted for being specifically designed to accelerate dynamic physical motion and interaction in games such as Ghost Recon Advanced Warfighter 2 (GRAW 2).
  • NVIDIA® Unified Architecture
    Fully unified shader core dynamically allocates processing power to geometry, vertex, physics or pixel shading operations, delivering up to 2X the gaming performance of prior generation GPUs
  • GigaThread™ Technology
    Massively multi-threaded architecture supports thousands of independent, simultaneous threads, providing extreme processing efficiency in advanced, next generation shader programs
  • NVIDIA® SLI™ technology
    Delivers up to 2X the performance of a single graphics card configuration for unequaled gaming experiences by allowing two cards to run in parallel. The must-have feature for performance PCI Express graphics, SLI technology dramatically scales performance on today’s hottest games
  • NVIDIA® Lumenex™ Engine
    Delivers stunning image and floating point accuracy at ultra-fast frame rate
  • 16x Anti-aliasing
    Lightning fast, high quality anti-aliasing at up to 16x sample rates obliterates jagged edges
  • 128-bit floating point High Dynamic-Range (HDR)
    Twice the precision of prior generations for incredibly realistic lighting effects-now with support for anti-aliasing
  • NVIDIA® Quantum Effect™ Technology
    Advanced shader processors architected for physics computation enable a new level of physics effects to be simulated and rendered on the GPU-all while freeing the CPU to run the game engine and AI
  • NVIDIA® ForceWare® unified Driver Architecture (UDA)
    Delivers a proven record of compatibility, reliability and stability with the widest range of games and applications. ForceWare ensures the best out-of-box experience for every user and delivers continuous performance and feature updates over the life of NVIDIA GeForce GPUs
  • OpenGL® 2.0 Optimizations and Support
    Ensures top-notch compatibility and performance for Open GL applications.
  • NVIDIA® nView Multi-Display Technology Advanced technology provides the ultimate in viewing flexible and control for multiple monitors.
  • PCI Express Support
    Designed to run perfectly with the PCI Express bus architecture, which doubles the bandwidth of AGP 8X to deliver over 4 GB/sc in both upstream and downstream data transfer
  • Built for Microsoft® Windows Vista
    Nvidia’s fourth-generation GPU architecture built for Windows Vista gives users the best possible experience with the Windows Aero 3D graphical user interface
  • NVIDIA® PureVideo™ technology
    The combination of high-definition video decode acceleration and post-processing that delivers unprecedented picture clarity, smooth video, accurate color and precise image scaling for movies and video


  • ProductInno3D Geforce GTX 295 oc
  • Processor Cores480
  • Graphics Clock (MHz)600
  • Processor Clock (MHz)1242Mhz
  • Memory Clock (MHz)2160Mhz
  • Memory Amount1792 Mb
  • Memory Interface 896 bit
  • Memory Bandwidth (GB/sec)223.8
  • Texture Fill Rate (billion/sec)

  • 1. A PCI-Express compliant motherboard with full size expension slot
    2. 6-pin + 8-pin PCI Express supplementary power connector
Note: 1. PCB, components, specification and packing are subjected to change without notice
 

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My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Brew
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate Vista Ultimate x64
CPU
Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16Ghz @ 3.8Ghz
Motherboard
eVGA 750i FTW
Memory
2x2Gigs Patriot PC2-6400 LL
Graphics Card(s)
Inno3D GeForce GTX260 216 SP
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VW222U 22" 2ms Response time
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
SATA 150GB
SATA II 250GB
USB IDE 750GB Ext.
PSU
HYTEC 600W & Thermaltake 650W Toughpower Power Exp
Case
Thermaltake Armor LCS (Liquid Cooling System)
Cooling
Liquid Cooling System
Keyboard
Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech G9 Gaming Mouse
If i buy one of those you recommended Mr. Grim, i will go way over my budget :(
 
Always get a quality PSU. Do some research on these and remember...unlike other hardware, the PSU touches EVERYTHING in your system!


Well i did my research, and acording to many reviews Corsair is supposed to be a good company that makes reliable PSUs, right ? However my Corsair 620 W psu died on me in a little under a year of use, and i was shocked, cause by all accounts it is supposed to be a good, durable and sturdy psu. None of my components are overclocked, everything is on default settings, so i have no idea what went wrong.

My friend has a Corsair 520 W psu that he swears by, and has more powerfull components then me, and his quadcore CPU is heavily OCd (i have core2duo ), yet he has no problems with his psu. :confused:
I had to return my psu to the store where i bought it ( that was 2 weeks ago ), still haven't recieved an answear from the store as to whether they are going to give me a new PSU.

I guess the moral of the story here is that even the supposedly good brandname PSUs can be just as unreliable.

:( :cry: :mad:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Basic 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420 (2.13 Ghz)
Motherboard
Asus P5B-E Plus
Memory
2x1 GB Kingston KVR DDR2 800Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Saphire ATI HD4870 512MB
Sound Card
Creative Audigy 4 PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster T220
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
WD 320GB (Sata2)
Maxtor 250GB (ATA133)
Maxtor 80GB (ATA133)
PSU
Coolermaster Silent Pro 700Watt
Case
Chieftec midi tower case
Cooling
stock cpu cooler/fan
Keyboard
Logitech UltraX Premium Keyboard (usb 2.0)
Mouse
Logitech MX518 gaming grade optical mouse 1800dpi(usb2.0)
Well i did my research, and acording to many reviews Corsair is supposed to be a good company that makes reliable PSUs, right ? However my Corsair 620 W psu died on me in a little under a year of use, and i was shocked, cause by all accounts it is supposed to be a good, durable and sturdy psu. None of my components are overclocked, everything is on default settings, so i have no idea what went wrong.

My friend has a Corsair 520 W psu that he swears by, and has more powerfull components then me, and his quadcore CPU is heavily OCd (i have core2duo ), yet he has no problems with his psu. :confused:
I had to return my psu to the store where i bought it ( that was 2 weeks ago ), still haven't recieved an answear from the store as to whether they are going to give me a new PSU.

I guess the moral of the story here is that even the supposedly good brandname PSUs can be just as unreliable.

:( :cry: :mad:

Could be that you get dirty power (meaning low or fluctuating voltages) or maybe a surge, do you have serge protection on your computer?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Brew
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate Vista Ultimate x64
CPU
Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16Ghz @ 3.8Ghz
Motherboard
eVGA 750i FTW
Memory
2x2Gigs Patriot PC2-6400 LL
Graphics Card(s)
Inno3D GeForce GTX260 216 SP
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VW222U 22" 2ms Response time
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
SATA 150GB
SATA II 250GB
USB IDE 750GB Ext.
PSU
HYTEC 600W & Thermaltake 650W Toughpower Power Exp
Case
Thermaltake Armor LCS (Liquid Cooling System)
Cooling
Liquid Cooling System
Keyboard
Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech G9 Gaming Mouse
No i dont think i have a surge protector, my computer is plugged into a power strip - heres a definition for what im referring to as found on wikipedia :

"A power strip (also known as a plug board, power board, power bar, distribution board, gangplug, plugbar, multibox, extension lead or relocatable power tap) is a strip of sockets that attaches to the end of a flexible cable and allows multiple devices to be plugged in. As such it can be considered a type of trailing socket though that term is more often used for single and double cable mounted sockets. The term is also used to refer to the complete assembly with the power strip on one end and a plug on the other. Power strips are often used when many electrical devices are in proximity, especially with audio/video and computer systems."

Power strip - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Basic 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420 (2.13 Ghz)
Motherboard
Asus P5B-E Plus
Memory
2x1 GB Kingston KVR DDR2 800Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Saphire ATI HD4870 512MB
Sound Card
Creative Audigy 4 PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster T220
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
WD 320GB (Sata2)
Maxtor 250GB (ATA133)
Maxtor 80GB (ATA133)
PSU
Coolermaster Silent Pro 700Watt
Case
Chieftec midi tower case
Cooling
stock cpu cooler/fan
Keyboard
Logitech UltraX Premium Keyboard (usb 2.0)
Mouse
Logitech MX518 gaming grade optical mouse 1800dpi(usb2.0)
Yeah that's not a surge protector, if you have spent allot of money on your computer and you want to protect it then you need a surge protector, i have bought one a about a month ago and still haven't used it yet for some stupid reason :o
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Brew
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate Vista Ultimate x64
CPU
Core 2 Duo E8500 3.16Ghz @ 3.8Ghz
Motherboard
eVGA 750i FTW
Memory
2x2Gigs Patriot PC2-6400 LL
Graphics Card(s)
Inno3D GeForce GTX260 216 SP
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS VW222U 22" 2ms Response time
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
SATA 150GB
SATA II 250GB
USB IDE 750GB Ext.
PSU
HYTEC 600W & Thermaltake 650W Toughpower Power Exp
Case
Thermaltake Armor LCS (Liquid Cooling System)
Cooling
Liquid Cooling System
Keyboard
Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard
Mouse
Logitech G9 Gaming Mouse
About two months ago, a power outage killed my nice 19" lcd. So I got a 22" wide to replace it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
self built
OS
7600.20510 x86
CPU
P4 550 3.4 GHz HT running at 3.5 GHz
Motherboard
MSI PM8M3-V (MS-7211 v1.x) Micro-ATX mainboard
Memory
OCZ 2 GB(2x1GB) DDR400mHz running @ 414 mHz
Graphics Card(s)
HIS Radeon HD 3850 IceQ 3 Turbo HDMI Dual DL-DVI AGP
Sound Card
MOTU Traveler firewire studio interface 192 kHz 24 bit
Monitor(s) Displays
22" widescreen Acer X223W LCD, 17" Compaq P75 CRT
Screen Resolution
1680x1050 and 1280x1024
Hard Drives
SATA I x2 WD, 400 GB and 120 GB, SATA 2 WD Caviar Black 1 TB
PSU
350W generic
Case
Cybertronpc, it glows blue
Cooling
stock cpu fan, Ice-Q 3 gpu and system, many case fans
Keyboard
Logitch Classical Keyboard 200
Mouse
Logitech Mediaplay cordless
Internet Speed
1792/448 kbits/sec
Other Info
SATA II PCI fake RAID adapter, 1 GB Readyboost, original ATI Remote Wonder (even works with WMC perfectly), Logitech Rumblepad 2 game controller x2
Hey Sergio,

Yes. For it's price range the Core 216 is excellent and you can be assured great performance. :D

You can always spend more or less and find "better" cards (frames per dollar, or just muscle etc). :huh:

Again if the 216 fits your budget, it is the best card at that price point. Below are two external views on your card.

Guru3d's verdict, keep in mind EVGA cards overclock well and you could reach SSC speeds on a base or mid clocked card...:p This is just a review and not a comparrision:

"The Verdict
Yeah, seriously I really do like the new [COLOR=#000080 !important][COLOR=#000080 !important]GTX[/COLOR][/COLOR] 260 GPUs. Though the initial additional performance of the 24 extra cores do not show much potential at reference speeds, but they do kick in along with the rest once you start to overclock the card. Luckily there's board-partners like [COLOR=#000080 !important][COLOR=#000080 !important]EVGA[/COLOR][/COLOR] and BFG providing us with overclocked editions of such products. Now granted, the overclocked editions are more expensive. But we expect the product as test to hover at roughly 300 USD. Making it just as expensive as a radeon [COLOR=#000080 !important][COLOR=#000080 !important]HD[/COLOR][/COLOR] 4870 yet the performance to that product was matched. What also caught our attention is the fact that this superclocked edition performance is extremely close to the GeForce GTX 280 performance wise. So that's saving 100 bucks there for only a very small performance differential. The reality is that the GTX 280 can overclock as well too though. But granted guys, this is a very decent set of performance and thus value for your money. Surely not the cheapest products but at that 300 dollar price base you do get a high-end product, and there is a lot to say for that for sure.
The Geforce GTX 260 core 216 is in fact a GeForce GTX 280, with a small chunk of memory missing, and one shader cluster with 24 shader cores disabled. Other then that, there is just no difference whatsoever.
So in general the Core 216 edition cards offer a small small step in performance over the regular GTX 260 products, but the faster clocked Core 216 products, darn it, that's where value starts kicking in for sure.
Even when we fire up the hottest game released this month, S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Clear Sky and test at high quality and then that uber high DX10 enhanced mode, we still get a lot of performance out of it. The sheer amount of shader power versus a very decent amount of frame buffer size helps a lot with the hottest titles.
So again; for say 299 USD you get to play around with a card that is performing really close to GTX 280 performance.
imageview.php
Combine it with the step-up program and very extensive warranty policy, I have to say that is a golden little gem there in our test rig. Definitely another candidate worth for our Top Pick award.
So the bottom line. The GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 is merely a notch faster than it's predecessor .. making it compete fiercely with the competitors best Single-GPU product. None the less, the real trick is the new 279 USD pricing level. Add to that the additional performance and then the real candy .. the overclocked models from the board partners like EVGA, they are slightly more expensive at 300-320 USD, but worth the extra dough and that extended eVGA warranty.

Here is "Toms" version, which for the money offers the ATI solution and so a bit of a comparrision. Like I have said before I tend to the Nvidia side but for about the same price can not argue: :huh:

"Best PCIe Card For ~$180 : Tie

Good 1920x1200 performance

Radeon HD 4870 1 GBCodename: RV770 Process: 55 nm Universal Shaders: 800 Texture Units: 40 ROPs: 16 Memory Bus: 256-bit Core Speed MHz: 750 Memory Speed MHz: 900 (3,600 effective) DirectX/Shader Model: DX 10.1/SM 4.1
For a chunk of change more than the 512 MB version, you can have a full 1 GB of video memory on your Radeon HD 4870. Is it worth it? That depends whether or not you play titles that can take advantage of more graphics [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]RAM[/COLOR][/COLOR]. This decision might require a bit more diligence on your part, but if you have the budget for it, a 1 GB Radeon HD 4870 isn't a bad buy by any stretch of the imagination.
GeForce GTX 260 (Core 216)
Codename: GT200Process: 55 nm Universal Shaders: 216Texture Units: 72ROPs: 28 Memory Bus: 448-bit Core Speed MHz: 576 Memory Speed MHz: 999 (1,998 effective) DirectX/Shader Model: DX 10/SM 4.0
While these cards might not sport a full 1 GB of RAM like the Radeon HD 4870 does in the same price range, they do offer advantages in titles that run better on the GeForce GT200 architecture. Once again, a little diligence is required on the part of the buyer to find out which card is the best adapted for his or her favorite titles, and once again, whether or not the motherboard [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]supports[/COLOR][/COLOR] SLI or CrossFire.
Note that we are recommending the newer "Core 216" version of the GeForce GTX 260, instead of the older version with 192 shader [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]processors[/COLOR][/COLOR]. Check the specifications of any card before you purchase.
"

Hope this information helps, I have been very pleased with EVGA so I highly reccommend them :D

Cheers!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ground Up
OS
Windows 7 x64 build 7068
CPU
AMD Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.6 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P AM3
Memory
2x 2GB G.Skill DDR 3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 285 @ 702 core 1609 shader 2648 memory
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek ALC889A
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX2640w
Screen Resolution
1900 1200
Hard Drives
SAMSUNG 7200 320GB (Boot)
Seagate 500GB (Games, Music, Files, Work)
WD 1TB X 2 (DVD's and Blu Rays)
PSU
Corsair TX850w (12v 70Amps), Backup: CyberPower 810watt UPS
Case
Antec 3000
Cooling
ZEROtherm 120mm Copper CPU, 4 X 120mm Case & 1 140mm Case
Keyboard
Microsoft Natual 4000
Mouse
Logitech G5
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Work System: Win7 x64 7068, Phenom II X4 940 @ 3.6, ASRock K10N780SLI mb, EVGA GTS 250 512mb video, Corsair TX650 power, 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 6400, Seagate 250GB, and a lil 17" old LCD.
Could be that you get dirty power (meaning low or fluctuating voltages) or maybe a surge, do you have serge protection on your computer?

Hmmm I doubt that that was what caused the psu to die,
because when i wrote my previous post, i forgot to mention that when i went to the store to return my psu, the salesman was surprised that a good psu like corsair would die, and said that recently another customer returned another dead Corsair psu ( an even stronger one, i thinke he said it was a 750 W corsair psu )...
So a coincidence or just bad luck, or maybe bad quality controll on manufacturer's part.... ?

:confused:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Basic 64bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo 6420 (2.13 Ghz)
Motherboard
Asus P5B-E Plus
Memory
2x1 GB Kingston KVR DDR2 800Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Saphire ATI HD4870 512MB
Sound Card
Creative Audigy 4 PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster T220
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
WD 320GB (Sata2)
Maxtor 250GB (ATA133)
Maxtor 80GB (ATA133)
PSU
Coolermaster Silent Pro 700Watt
Case
Chieftec midi tower case
Cooling
stock cpu cooler/fan
Keyboard
Logitech UltraX Premium Keyboard (usb 2.0)
Mouse
Logitech MX518 gaming grade optical mouse 1800dpi(usb2.0)
icoola77,

I live in the "mountains" and so have shaky power at best, outages, dipps, spikes etc. I maintain 9 computers in the area, firends and family, and have seen first hand issues caused by power. 3 of those computers on power strips, and over the years they are the ones I have had to replace a hard drive, a power supply and a LCD on. 3 more cpus are on surge protectors and have seen only minor issues, one LCD but it was really old anyway. The last 3 are on UPS's and really do feel they have the least hardware issues.

I have Corsair PS in my 2 cpus, a TX850 and a TX650, and they rock for me. I hope they do not have the issues you mentioned, (knock, knock, on the wood picture).

I like UPS's and feel they are worth the money for regulated power to the system and monitor. Just got my Cyberpower from Newegg a 810 watt for $150 with free shipping..:D Had a 500 watt Trip Lite that worked just fine but with my system wanted a stronger one.

I agree that power supplies get overlooked a lot, I replaced a stock one on my Dad's and watched as his cpu temp dropped by almost 10C! Having the power on demand makes a huge difference. Anyway just wanted to share my experience with UPS's for you. I say get one..:p

Cheers!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ground Up
OS
Windows 7 x64 build 7068
CPU
AMD Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.6 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P AM3
Memory
2x 2GB G.Skill DDR 3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 285 @ 702 core 1609 shader 2648 memory
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek ALC889A
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX2640w
Screen Resolution
1900 1200
Hard Drives
SAMSUNG 7200 320GB (Boot)
Seagate 500GB (Games, Music, Files, Work)
WD 1TB X 2 (DVD's and Blu Rays)
PSU
Corsair TX850w (12v 70Amps), Backup: CyberPower 810watt UPS
Case
Antec 3000
Cooling
ZEROtherm 120mm Copper CPU, 4 X 120mm Case & 1 140mm Case
Keyboard
Microsoft Natual 4000
Mouse
Logitech G5
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Work System: Win7 x64 7068, Phenom II X4 940 @ 3.6, ASRock K10N780SLI mb, EVGA GTS 250 512mb video, Corsair TX650 power, 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 6400, Seagate 250GB, and a lil 17" old LCD.
I too live in the "mountains" and also have shaky power that's why you need:

Surge Suppressors (Protectors)

The simplest form of power protection is any one of the commercially available surge protectorsthat is, devices inserted between the system and the power line. These devices, which cost between $20 and $200, can absorb the high-voltage transients produced by nearby lightning strikes and power equipment. Some surge protectors can be effective for certain types of power problems, but they offer only very limited protection.

Surge protectors use several devices, usually metal-oxide varistors (MOVs), that can clamp and shunt away all voltages above a certain level. MOVs are designed to accept voltages as high as 6,000V and divert any power above 200V to ground. MOVs can handle normal surges, but powerful surges such as direct lightning strikes can blow right through them. MOVs are not designed to handle a very high level of power and self-destruct while shunting a large surge. These devices therefore cease to function after either a single large surge or a series of smaller ones. The real problem is that you can't easily tell when they no longer are functional. The only way to test them is to subject the MOVs to a surge, which destroys them. Therefore, you never really know whether your so-called surge protector is protecting your system.
Some surge protectors have status lights that let you know when a surge large enough to blow the MOVs has occurred. A surge suppressor without this status indicator light is useless because you never know when it has stopped protecting.

Underwriters Laboratories has produced an excellent standard that governs surge suppressors, called UL 1449. Any surge suppressor that meets this standard is a very good one and definitely offers a line of protection beyond what the power supply in your PC already offers. The only types of surge suppressors worth buying, therefore, should have two features:

  • Conformance to the UL 1449 standard
  • A status light indicating when the MOVs are blown
Units that meet the UL 1449 specification say so on the packaging or directly on the unit. If this standard is not mentioned, it does not conform. Therefore, you should avoid it.
Another good feature to have in a surge suppressor is a built-in circuit breaker that can be manually reset rather than a fuse. The breaker protects your system if it or a peripheral develops a short. These better surge suppressors usually cost about $40.


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PowerUsers build there Computer's
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ASUS P5Q Pro - P45 Chipset
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Good stuff PhoneyVirus,

Just as a little follow up, if going the UPS route the UL 1449 standard there is UL 1778:

"UL 1449 Document Information:
Title
UL Standard for Safety Surge Protective Devices

An SPD that has a battery backup feature or other uninterruptible power supply equipment shall also comply with the applicable requirements in the Standard for Uninterruptible Power Supply Equipment, UL 1778."

With common outages in my area the UPS gives me a few minutes to shut down my system and so save my spot in my games :D. Really just to shut the system down and save data.

The CyberPower I have (810) will run my monitor and pc for about 7-9 minutes and so plenty of time to shut down. I also like the security of knowing that the monitor and pc are on battery regulated power so get clean power all the time. It has 4 outlets with battery voltage regulator and 4 with surge protection, of course only the monitor and pc are on the battery.

Just my 2 cents, at the minimum I agree with PhoneyVirus 100% on the UL 1449 surge protector. For my primary system a UL 1778 UPS, secondary systems 1449's. :)

Cheers!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ground Up
OS
Windows 7 x64 build 7068
CPU
AMD Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.6 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P AM3
Memory
2x 2GB G.Skill DDR 3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 285 @ 702 core 1609 shader 2648 memory
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek ALC889A
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ViewSonic VX2640w
Screen Resolution
1900 1200
Hard Drives
SAMSUNG 7200 320GB (Boot)
Seagate 500GB (Games, Music, Files, Work)
WD 1TB X 2 (DVD's and Blu Rays)
PSU
Corsair TX850w (12v 70Amps), Backup: CyberPower 810watt UPS
Case
Antec 3000
Cooling
ZEROtherm 120mm Copper CPU, 4 X 120mm Case & 1 140mm Case
Keyboard
Microsoft Natual 4000
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Logitech G5
Internet Speed
Cable
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Work System: Win7 x64 7068, Phenom II X4 940 @ 3.6, ASRock K10N780SLI mb, EVGA GTS 250 512mb video, Corsair TX650 power, 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 6400, Seagate 250GB, and a lil 17" old LCD.
the monitor and pc are on battery regulated power so get clean power all the time. It has 4 outlets with battery voltage regulator and 4 with surge protection, of course only the monitor and pc are on the battery.
This is for everyone not just in reply to you, ibocpro:

Most UPSes these days are either standby or line-interactive, not on-line type.

Standby just feeds the components plugged in line power then switches when voltages go outside of a pre-set range, say below 108 volts and above 132 volts, they do not protect from any line noise or such. this is the cheapest UPSes that use this.

Line interactive is now the most popular... they basically have an inline variable transformer that varies the voltage (some have a more complex setup) and the battery inverter (the part that makes the battery give power to the stuff when the power goes out) is usually used as the line interactive transformer. This gives pretty clean power but not as good as a true on-line UPS. this is by far the most common type of UPS out now.

on-line UPSes basically have no direct connection from the power coming in to the power going out, they are always charging the battery and always running your equipment off the battery, this can give the cleanest power (it depends on how good the inverter is, some use stepped approximation which isnt so good but most use a much better sine wave creation method) and also wear out batteries the fastest. If you want the best protection and also the cleanest power, use this type, but be prepared to replace the batteries every few years.
 

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Tifa (self built)
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Windows 7 Beta (and others, multiboot)
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Intel e1500 (Conroe core2duo 2.2Ghz, 800Mhz FSB, 512KB L2)
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Gigabyte GA-EP43-UD3L (P43/ICH10 chipset)
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4x 2GB Kingston PC800 DDR2
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BFG GeForce 7900GS/OCE 256MB PCIE 1.0 x16
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Built in Realtek Azalia (192KHz @ 24 bit max)
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Acer AL2216W 22" 1680x1050 LCD, using DVI connector
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1680x1050
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Seagate ST3320620AS 7200.10 320GB 16MB SATA2 HD
PSU
Silverstone ST400
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Ultra Wizard ATX (modded neg pressure single fan cooling)
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Scythe S-FLEX SFDB SFF21F 1500RPM 120MM (intel stock HSF)
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Old IBM PS/2 104 key
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Microsoft Lasermouse 6000
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DSL 3Mbit/512kbit
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Intel PRO1000/GT PCI, 9K jumbo frames
RCA RT2500 Home Theatre Headunit for sound reproduction
Hey Jaqie,

Right you are, from the CyberPower 810 documentation:

"Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) - AVR technology will stabilize the AC signal and maintain a safe voltage level without switching to battery-mode. This conserves battery life, and delivers a cleaner signal to your connected equipment."

And even still the battery has a 3-6 year life, so the cost is up there for UPS's. Still I do like the regulated power and battery for outages, :p

Cheers!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ground Up
OS
Windows 7 x64 build 7068
CPU
AMD Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.6 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P AM3
Memory
2x 2GB G.Skill DDR 3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 285 @ 702 core 1609 shader 2648 memory
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek ALC889A
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX2640w
Screen Resolution
1900 1200
Hard Drives
SAMSUNG 7200 320GB (Boot)
Seagate 500GB (Games, Music, Files, Work)
WD 1TB X 2 (DVD's and Blu Rays)
PSU
Corsair TX850w (12v 70Amps), Backup: CyberPower 810watt UPS
Case
Antec 3000
Cooling
ZEROtherm 120mm Copper CPU, 4 X 120mm Case & 1 140mm Case
Keyboard
Microsoft Natual 4000
Mouse
Logitech G5
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Work System: Win7 x64 7068, Phenom II X4 940 @ 3.6, ASRock K10N780SLI mb, EVGA GTS 250 512mb video, Corsair TX650 power, 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 6400, Seagate 250GB, and a lil 17" old LCD.
I want to get one of those big battery surge protectors, like this:
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Cyberpower-CP1500AVRLCD-UPS-Display-8-Outlet/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_cp_e_1?pf_rd_p=413863501&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000NDA5E0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0GVXDK4RMNGGBVT3VEQ4]Amazon.com: Cyberpower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - LCD Display 1500VA/900W AVR 8-Outlet RJ11/RJ45/Coax Tower USB: Electronics[/ame]

That is what you are talking about right?

~Lordbob
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Hera
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64, Mint 9
CPU
Intel i5-2500k
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Memory
2x 4Gb Corsair VENGEANCE DDR3-1600
Graphics Card(s)
NVidia GeForce N260GTX Twin Frozr
Sound Card
Realtek HD OnBoard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
ASUS 24" Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
G.SKILL Phoenix Series 60GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3R 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA II
PSU
Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W
Case
Cooler Master Haf 932
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Razer Tarantula
Mouse
Razer Lachesis
Internet Speed
not fast enough
Yep,

I have the model below that one, the CP1350AVRLCD @ 810 watts.:D
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ground Up
OS
Windows 7 x64 build 7068
CPU
AMD Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.6 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P AM3
Memory
2x 2GB G.Skill DDR 3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 285 @ 702 core 1609 shader 2648 memory
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek ALC889A
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX2640w
Screen Resolution
1900 1200
Hard Drives
SAMSUNG 7200 320GB (Boot)
Seagate 500GB (Games, Music, Files, Work)
WD 1TB X 2 (DVD's and Blu Rays)
PSU
Corsair TX850w (12v 70Amps), Backup: CyberPower 810watt UPS
Case
Antec 3000
Cooling
ZEROtherm 120mm Copper CPU, 4 X 120mm Case & 1 140mm Case
Keyboard
Microsoft Natual 4000
Mouse
Logitech G5
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Work System: Win7 x64 7068, Phenom II X4 940 @ 3.6, ASRock K10N780SLI mb, EVGA GTS 250 512mb video, Corsair TX650 power, 2x 2GB G.Skill DDR2 6400, Seagate 250GB, and a lil 17" old LCD.
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