Checking CPU Temp

IggyAZ

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Many of us take it for granted that all is well in our computers that we have built.
Today someone mentioned a program called Speccy to identify hardware in your system. (I personally use Belarc Advisor) Well I downloaded it and started looking at my internal CPU temps.
Hummm they seem to be a little high.
CPU 0% idle was 42c
CPU loaded to 75% 61c

Well I decided to do a little checking and removed the CPU heatsink & fan and noticed that only 3 of the 4 clips were properly mounted to the MB.
My fault on build. Too much in a rush. :eek:

Long story short. Removed, cleaned and re-installed with new paste and mounted correctly to MB.
Final Results
CPU 0% idle was 30c
CPU loaded to 75% 43c

Checkout the difference temperatures between the two programs.
CoreTemp2 and Speccy


Which one do you use or like?
 

My Computer

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PC/Desktop
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Self Built
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Windows 10 Pro
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Intel i5
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I have a fatherboard
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I'm old and lost a few chips
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Yup
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Yup
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Samsung 32" UHD
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Samsung 860 EVO drives
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450 Watt and some fans that blow
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Yes I am cool. lol
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Iggy:

I'm surprised that you could operate that long with one clip bad! I'd have thought temps would have been very high instead of only a few degrees. I guess that shows that modern CPUs usually have a lot of headroom before they throttle.

I am a bit suspicious of all of these monitoring programs. You'd assume both Speccy and Coretemp would be reading from the same source and would simply report what they saw in the BIOS.

I have both Coretemp and HWMonitor on my PC. Just for kicks, I just ran Orthos to stress test my PC to see how both of those apps would track the rising temps. They both read 36 when I started Orthos and both got as high as 54. Coretemp seemed to display the rising temp a few seconds before HWMonitor did, but they never differed by more than 1 degree.

I'm keeping HWMonitor because it also displays HD temperatures, but I can't find a simple program that also monitors motherboard temps. Intel Desktop Utilities does that, but there is no Win 7 version yet.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Had similar issue in past.

This is why anymore I always advise to trash the stock push pin HS, pick up a decent aftermarket with a Bolt on kit. only $6 or so for the bolt kits,and sooo much better and easier :) lot less headache IMO


As far as temp programs, I use my guardian that came with my DFI board.
Also liked REAL TEMP for Intels
but my onboard is just as accurate, and shows basically everything else .. (chipset, PWM area, voltages etc) so I just use it. :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
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EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
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Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
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Seasonic x750
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Corsair 600T SE White
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eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
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Saitek Cyborg
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Kaspersky
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IE
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LG BD/DVD
Wishmaster:

Any particular bolt on kit you recommend and are they generally usable with any heatsink that is appropriate for that motherboard?

Can they be removed and transferred to another board? I thought I read that they used adhesive?

The guy who came up with the 4 pin Intel system should be tied to an anthill.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
HAHA I agree.

Something like:
Newegg.com - XIGMATEK ACK-I7363 CPU Cooler - CPU Fans & Heatsinks

Theres other types, and other brands obviosly, but only familiar w/Xigmatek brand myself.

I think once you set it on the MOBO it needs to stay. At least thats how mine seems. I could be wrong, but it looks to me as if trying to remove it will just ruin it/or dmg the MOBO possibly.

I dont think they will not fit the stock HSinks. they should however be compatable with any heatsink that has the little bolt on arms.(even for the push pin adapters)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
I've been using Everest Ultimate to monitor my CPU & GPU since cleaning my lappy and applying Arctic Silver 5. Are the other two better?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Sony Vaio FZ21Z
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Windows 7 Ultimate x64 ®™
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Intel Core 2 Duo (2.2 GHz)
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Sony (Intel Chipset)
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2x 2GB Corsair (667 MHz)
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NVIDIA 8600M GS (256MB)
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Sigmatel
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15.4" TFT X-Black
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1280x800
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Western Digital 300GB Scorpio Black (7200rpm)
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Logitech Anywhere MX
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Sky 5MB
I believe I read that some of those bolt on kits include some type of tape that protects the adhesive--like on a bandaid. If you simply don't remove the protective tape, you can then easily transfer the kit to another board because you haven't used the adhesive.

Sound plausible?

I looked at a free version of Everest a few days ago. It provided all kinds of info I didn't need and that I can get from other programs.

For simple temp monitoring, it isn't any better. Coretemp and HWMonitor are just a single screen.

Here is HWMonitor:
 

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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Wishmaster:

How much of an ordeal is it to remove the Intel push pins? That's one of the things i heard can be annoying.

2 minutes?

20 minutes and a lot of swearing?

Prybar and hammer?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I would say its plausible, YES. I would guess you would need to set the HS, and start the bolts thru and so as to align them before bolting the MOBO into the case though.
I just went ahead and glued mine to the board.



Ive only dealt with after market HS that have a bolt on arm on each side that hold the push pins.
The entire arm can be removed and replaced with the bolt-thru type arms, for use with a bolt through kit. (which is held in place with a single screw at the base)
Which is fairly simple.

if you mean removing the pins from something like the stock HS, I truly do not know, sorry. Im not even sure if its possible.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
Iggy:

I'm surprised that you could operate that long with one clip bad! I'd have thought temps would have been very high instead of only a few degrees. I guess that shows that modern CPUs usually have a lot of headroom before they throttle.

I am a bit suspicious of all of these monitoring programs. You'd assume both Speccy and Coretemp would be reading from the same source and would simply report what they saw in the BIOS.

I have both Coretemp and HWMonitor on my PC. Just for kicks, I just ran Orthos to stress test my PC to see how both of those apps would track the rising temps. They both read 36 when I started Orthos and both got as high as 54. Coretemp seemed to display the rising temp a few seconds before HWMonitor did, but they never differed by more than 1 degree.

I'm keeping HWMonitor because it also displays HD temperatures, but I can't find a simple program that also monitors motherboard temps. Intel Desktop Utilities does that, but there is no Win 7 version yet.

The CPU temp was running up around 61c which is about 140 degrees and now it runs about 32c which is about 88 degrees . I conside that substatial change.

Anyway the point was that I needed to look closer next time especially if I had higher than normal temps. My E6750 max temp is 95c which is way up there.

In reguards to the different program temps I have no answer why such a difference. It's just a reference point and the software may read that digital signal differently. No loss.

Anyway I'm presently running 32c most of the time.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel i5
Motherboard
I have a fatherboard
Memory
I'm old and lost a few chips
Graphics Card(s)
Yup
Sound Card
Yup
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" UHD
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 EVO drives
PSU
450 Watt and some fans that blow
Case
Small tower
Cooling
Yes I am cool. lol
Keyboard
Who needs a keyboard?
Mouse
Logitech Laser G7 wireless
Internet Speed
Zippy fast UP and DOWN
Antivirus
I got a shot
Browser
The new Improved EDGE 2020
I would say its plausible, YES. I would guess you would need to set the HS, and start the bolts thru and so as to align them before bolting the MOBO into the case though.
I just went ahead and glued mine to the board.

Ive only dealt with after market HS that have a bolt on arm on each side that hold the push pins.
The entire arm can be removed and replaced with the bolt-thru type arms, for use with a bolt through kit. (which is held in place with a single screw at the base)
Which is fairly simple.

if you mean removing the pins from something like the stock HS, I truly do not know, sorry. Im not even sure if its possible.

Next time I do a build I will look into other fan options. Thanks
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel i5
Motherboard
I have a fatherboard
Memory
I'm old and lost a few chips
Graphics Card(s)
Yup
Sound Card
Yup
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" UHD
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 EVO drives
PSU
450 Watt and some fans that blow
Case
Small tower
Cooling
Yes I am cool. lol
Keyboard
Who needs a keyboard?
Mouse
Logitech Laser G7 wireless
Internet Speed
Zippy fast UP and DOWN
Antivirus
I got a shot
Browser
The new Improved EDGE 2020
I would say its plausible, YES. I would guess you would need to set the HS, and start the bolts thru and so as to align them before bolting the MOBO into the case though.
I just went ahead and glued mine to the board.

Ive only dealt with after market HS that have a bolt on arm on each side that hold the push pins.
The entire arm can be removed and replaced with the bolt-thru type arms, for use with a bolt through kit. (which is held in place with a single screw at the base)
Which is fairly simple.

if you mean removing the pins from something like the stock HS, I truly do not know, sorry. Im not even sure if its possible.

Next time I do a build I will look into other fan options. Thanks

Iggy, do you mean remove the pins from the heatsink itself or removing them from thne mobo as in changing heatsinks? I've swapped push pin heatsinks and a couple of motherboards and CPU's with push pins and never had a problem with removing them. Also, I've never had a problem installing them. I'm not particularly fond of them and I've considered the bolt ons, but I really hate to have to take out the mobo to do it.

I love to tinker, but removing mobo's usually means a 3-4 hour job for me. :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self build
OS
Windows 10 Home
CPU
Intel Core i5 3550
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V LX (LGA1155)
Memory
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GEForce GTX 970 SSC
Monitor(s) Displays
Hanns-G 23.6", Acer 17"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1440x900
Hard Drives
Sandisk SSD 256 GB
WD500GB
WD640GB
Seagage Ultra + 1TB ext.
BWD 800GB
WD 1TB ext
PSU
Antec 650w
Case
Cooler Master Centurion 534
Cooling
COOLER MASTER GeminII S524, 3 120 mm case fans.
Keyboard
Logitech MK300
Mouse
Logitech MK300
Internet Speed
Cable
Antivirus
MSSE, Malwarebytes
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
I just discovered something last week that may be common knowledge to you folks. I have a couple of CPU speed programs that, obviously, tests the speed of your CPU. I've overclocked my Q9550 a bit and have been using Real Temp for quite a long while. My CPU was showing a speed of 3612 MHz which satisfied me as BIOS was showing 3.6 GHz.

Several days ago when I didn't have Real Temp running I checked the CPU again and it showed 3719 MHz. I used another program and it showed the same. I used the other program with Real Temp running and it showed 3612 MHz, same as the other one.

I don't know why the slight drop with Real Temp, as SpeedFan shows the higher number each time.

Any ideas, or is this a common thing?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self build
OS
Windows 10 Home
CPU
Intel Core i5 3550
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V LX (LGA1155)
Memory
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GEForce GTX 970 SSC
Monitor(s) Displays
Hanns-G 23.6", Acer 17"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1440x900
Hard Drives
Sandisk SSD 256 GB
WD500GB
WD640GB
Seagage Ultra + 1TB ext.
BWD 800GB
WD 1TB ext
PSU
Antec 650w
Case
Cooler Master Centurion 534
Cooling
COOLER MASTER GeminII S524, 3 120 mm case fans.
Keyboard
Logitech MK300
Mouse
Logitech MK300
Internet Speed
Cable
Antivirus
MSSE, Malwarebytes
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
I just discovered something last week that may be common knowledge to you folks. I have a couple of CPU speed programs that, obviously, tests the speed of your CPU. I've overclocked my Q9550 a bit and have been using Real Temp for quite a long while. My CPU was showing a speed of 3612 MHz which satisfied me as BIOS was showing 3.6 GHz.

Several days ago when I didn't have Real Temp running I checked the CPU again and it showed 3719 MHz. I used another program and it showed the same. I used the other program with Real Temp running and it showed 3612 MHz, same as the other one.

I don't know why the slight drop with Real Temp, as SpeedFan shows the higher number each time.

Any ideas, or is this a common thing?

I'm not an expert with OC but I did see that my BIOS has a setting that throttles down my speed to 2 gig when not working and back up to 2.7 gig when needed. I think it is called Enhanced Itel SpeedStep. I have my Enabled in BIOS. If you always want Max speed it should be Disabaled in BIOS.
I just checked your MB and I think it is called...


CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) (Note)
[FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow][FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow]Enables or disables Intel CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) function, a CPU power-saving function in system halt state. When enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption. (Default: Enabled) [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow]Also it is set by default to Enabled.[/FONT]
[/FONT]
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel i5
Motherboard
I have a fatherboard
Memory
I'm old and lost a few chips
Graphics Card(s)
Yup
Sound Card
Yup
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" UHD
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 EVO drives
PSU
450 Watt and some fans that blow
Case
Small tower
Cooling
Yes I am cool. lol
Keyboard
Who needs a keyboard?
Mouse
Logitech Laser G7 wireless
Internet Speed
Zippy fast UP and DOWN
Antivirus
I got a shot
Browser
The new Improved EDGE 2020
I've overclocked my Q9550 a bit 3.6 GHz.
Several days ago when I checked the CPU again and it showed 3719 MHz.

OVERCLOCKING a bit... WOW! How many fans do you have to cool that Q9950 Quad?
I think if you put your system in the refigerator you could get 4Gz out of it. :eek:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel i5
Motherboard
I have a fatherboard
Memory
I'm old and lost a few chips
Graphics Card(s)
Yup
Sound Card
Yup
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" UHD
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 EVO drives
PSU
450 Watt and some fans that blow
Case
Small tower
Cooling
Yes I am cool. lol
Keyboard
Who needs a keyboard?
Mouse
Logitech Laser G7 wireless
Internet Speed
Zippy fast UP and DOWN
Antivirus
I got a shot
Browser
The new Improved EDGE 2020
I just discovered something last week that may be common knowledge to you folks. I have a couple of CPU speed programs that, obviously, tests the speed of your CPU. I've overclocked my Q9550 a bit and have been using Real Temp for quite a long while. My CPU was showing a speed of 3612 MHz which satisfied me as BIOS was showing 3.6 GHz.

Several days ago when I didn't have Real Temp running I checked the CPU again and it showed 3719 MHz. I used another program and it showed the same. I used the other program with Real Temp running and it showed 3612 MHz, same as the other one.

I don't know why the slight drop with Real Temp, as SpeedFan shows the higher number each time.

Any ideas, or is this a common thing?

Showing different clocks in different programs?

If i were you, i would look at what the Bios has to say and see if it matched CPUZ.
Bios tend to be more accurate than software.
If they match, I would say its just a error in the other programs.

What speed does it say in the Win. assesment screen?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
I think it's just a read error in Real Temp. BIOS, CPU-Z, siw and Windows all say it's 3.6 GHz. Temps read the same in all programs so the may reason I use it is still valid. I just thought it was strange to see the difference.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self build
OS
Windows 10 Home
CPU
Intel Core i5 3550
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V LX (LGA1155)
Memory
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GEForce GTX 970 SSC
Monitor(s) Displays
Hanns-G 23.6", Acer 17"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1440x900
Hard Drives
Sandisk SSD 256 GB
WD500GB
WD640GB
Seagage Ultra + 1TB ext.
BWD 800GB
WD 1TB ext
PSU
Antec 650w
Case
Cooler Master Centurion 534
Cooling
COOLER MASTER GeminII S524, 3 120 mm case fans.
Keyboard
Logitech MK300
Mouse
Logitech MK300
Internet Speed
Cable
Antivirus
MSSE, Malwarebytes
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
[/QUOTE]

I'm not an expert with OC but I did see that my BIOS has a setting that throttles down my speed to 2 gig when not working and back up to 2.7 gig when needed. I think it is called Enhanced Itel SpeedStep. I have my Enabled in BIOS. If you always want Max speed it should be Disabaled in BIOS.
I just checked your MB and I think it is called...


CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) (Note)
[FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow][FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow]Enables or disables Intel CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) function, a CPU power-saving function in system halt state. When enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption. (Default: Enabled) [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial Narrow,Arial Narrow]Also it is set by default to Enabled.[/FONT]
[/FONT][/QUOTE]

I do have it disabled. The only way I can tell is if it's enabled CPU-Z will show a slower clock speed when there is little activity and when it's disabled the max speed shows all the time.

I've seen pros and cons for each side of disabling or enabling, but prefer at this time to keep it disabled.

I'm not a real big fan of OC'ing, but with the versatile Q9550 and the Gigabyte mobo I just had to try it. Probably will go back to stock in the near future. I can't really see that much difference, anyhow, but I tend to think slow. :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self build
OS
Windows 10 Home
CPU
Intel Core i5 3550
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77-V LX (LGA1155)
Memory
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GEForce GTX 970 SSC
Monitor(s) Displays
Hanns-G 23.6", Acer 17"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1440x900
Hard Drives
Sandisk SSD 256 GB
WD500GB
WD640GB
Seagage Ultra + 1TB ext.
BWD 800GB
WD 1TB ext
PSU
Antec 650w
Case
Cooler Master Centurion 534
Cooling
COOLER MASTER GeminII S524, 3 120 mm case fans.
Keyboard
Logitech MK300
Mouse
Logitech MK300
Internet Speed
Cable
Antivirus
MSSE, Malwarebytes
Browser
IE 10, Chrome
I'm done here. My CPU temps are all inrange now and actually running much cooler than before. You can also see how my CPU is trottled back to 1.999 Khz when not needed.


Thanks all.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Built
OS
Windows 10 Pro
CPU
Intel i5
Motherboard
I have a fatherboard
Memory
I'm old and lost a few chips
Graphics Card(s)
Yup
Sound Card
Yup
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" UHD
Screen Resolution
3840 x 2160
Hard Drives
Samsung 860 EVO drives
PSU
450 Watt and some fans that blow
Case
Small tower
Cooling
Yes I am cool. lol
Keyboard
Who needs a keyboard?
Mouse
Logitech Laser G7 wireless
Internet Speed
Zippy fast UP and DOWN
Antivirus
I got a shot
Browser
The new Improved EDGE 2020
Mild OC, leaving EIST and C1E enable is a good thing IMO.

I only disable it when seeing what the board will do and chsing those high clocks.

After Im done playing, I find a nice 24/7 OC a re-enable them both.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom (Self Build)
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7 2700k
Motherboard
eVGA P67 SLI
Memory
8GB Mushkin Redline Ridgebacks @1866
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX570 SC
Sound Card
XiFi Titanium HD
Monitor(s) Displays
LG W2453V
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel 320 80GB -- Intel X25-V 40GB --WD Black 1TB x2 -- WD Blue 640GB
PSU
Seasonic x750
Case
Corsair 600T SE White
Cooling
eVGA Superclocked CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Saitek Cyborg
Antivirus
Kaspersky
Browser
IE
Other Info
LG BD/DVD
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