Solved CPU Temperature Overheat

[paulpicks21]

I believe the voltage range for that CPU is 1.13 - 1.4V.

If on auto the bios of the motherboard is setting it to 1.5v then that is way too high. If the cpu is at that voltage it could explain the high temps, well I think so anyway. I must admit I have no knowledge of that CPU but 1.5v on any CPU is a heck of a lot and temps will get very high very quick.

You have to ask the question as to why the motherboard bios on AUTO is setting the voltage so high. It could be a number of things. Have you tried removing the CPU from the socket and re-seating it? That could be worth doing. For some reason the motherboard is throwing too many volts at the CPU, whether it's a bad connection or whether the motherboard or CPU has been damaged or gone faulty I don't know.

If that doesn't work then I would suggest you read the online manual for how to set the voltage manually and get in and set it to say 1.2v as quick as possible after booting to avoid any damage if you can.

Not sure what else to suggest.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I think I have to enable Extreme OV to access the other voltages for the CPU. There is CPU Vcore (1.5v) and CPU Voltage. I'm not sure which one is set too high as other values are messed up as well. It's like my CMOS jumper has incorrectly configured my voltage settings or something.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Can you please measure the rail voltages at the 24 pin plug using a digital multimeter as I still would like to see those readings.

Plastic and alcohol is what I used with an Acer back place that I swear was super glued on

Mike try the Arctic Silver cleaning and prep solutions the clean solution will eventually remove just about anything and I have removed some pretty awful hard compounds with it.

Another solution is citrus oil left to soak and then cleaned off with rubbing alcohol I think you know it as.

With that hard compound you had it could possibly have been the adhesive type too

 

[DavidE]

Did you ever Load Optimized Defaults after resetting BIOS with the jumper pin ?

Some motherboards also have a Load Fail-Safe Defaults option.
If your BIOS has such an option you could try that.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I don't have a multimeter. The PSU isn't the fault. It started when I removed the jumper pin.

I'll try loading fail safe. If I keep trying to power it on and it keeps saying this over heating, won't it damage it more?

 

[DavidE]

You never said if you ever did a Load Optimized Defaults after resetting BIOS.
No one here knows for sure except you, if you did this.

Do you have your motherboard manual ?
Hopefully info is in there documenting how to Load Defaults.
It may be as easy (quick) as enter BIOS, tap a function key, and save and exit.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I haven't loaded optimised defaults, no. My BIOS does have this. However, I'm installing a new cooler right now as I've read way too many temperature issues with this cooler. I'll post back with updates.

I have attached 2 photographs of the CPU. Luckily it doesn't look damaged or burnt. Thank goodness!

 

[DavidE]

Good luck with the new cooler and hopefully that will fix the high temp warning.

As you never loaded optimized defaults that could explain why the voltages are set the way they are.
You are using "factory defaults".

Even if the new cooler fixes the temp warning, i would not want to run the system with voltages higher than they should be.
I would still Load Optimized Defaults, check voltages, and go from there.

 

[ThrashZone]

Plastic cpu holder looks like it melted :/

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Good luck with the new cooler and hopefully that will fix the high temp warning.

As you never loaded optimized defaults that could explain why the voltages are set the way they are.
You are using "factory defaults".

Even if the new cooler fixes the temp warning, i would not want to run the system with voltages higher than they should be.
I would still Load Optimized Defaults, check voltages, and go from there.

I did the CMOS clear jumper pin again and will also be sure to load optimised defaults.

Plastic cpu holder looks like it melted :/

That's the top of the CPU pump block. The heatsink/thermal pad is on the bottom of the block.

Here is that "scratch" I was telling you guys about. Those very tiny little scratches. It's the one right under the sticky pad.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Here are a few pictures now the new Corsair cooler is installed. I powered on and kept my hand on the pump block and radiator, they were nice and cool. Temperature still says 127C but it doesn't increase nor decrease at all. Which comes to the conclusion that the little scratch on the board that I did right next to the CPU socket may have been a voltage and temperature sensor strip. Either way, the CPU does not actually get hot at all. I'm going to try and flash the BIOS to update/reinstall a fresh update on it just in case. I can do this via the BIOS with ASUS EZ Flash. I have my MacBook here (on it right this second) so I can use that to download the BIOS flash file.

I may have to purchase a new motherboard, however.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hmm well if the PSU is ok then that is your decision myself I would be measuring it because without it working properly then nothing else is going to to work properly everything depends on it functioning at all and the limits on volts for example have extremely fine tolerances as you are well aware:sarc:

This is the manual https://www.asus.com/au/Motherboards/CROSSHAIR_IV_FORMULA/HelpDesk_Manual/ and the relevant parts start where I have marked in the pic

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Apologies for the double/triple post.

I tried to load defaults but the voltages are still in the red. They don't change. It's like it's at default voltage values. I successfully flashed/updated my BIOS but still no change. The CPU VDDA Voltage is at 1.5v for some reason and some voltage values in red show 0.4v but in red?

EDIT: My PSU is perfectly fine I believe. When I power up now, it doesn't say in POST "WARNING: CPU Temperature Overheat" anymore. (since installing the Corsair cooler and removing the CoolerMaster one) But the voltages are still incorrect.

EDIT#2: I don't suppose anyone could add me on Skype (kyleice45) and help me on a more instant basis?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Well I will leave my two cents as is and I think I mentioned a bit earlier - am not sure anymore that maybe the temp sensing system is up the swanee.

 

[DavidE]

From everything i've read in this thread, if you really did scratch a MB sensor I believe you will need a new Motherboard (MB) to fix the Temp/Voltages issues.
I can't tell from the screen prints about the scratches, I'm senior and my eyesight isn't like it was many years ago

If you do get a new MB you may have a licensing concern.
If you have a Retail Win 7 license, it can be transferred to a new PC/motherboard.
If it's an OEM license, it's tied to the original MB, and could be a problem transferring it to a different MB.
If you work with MS and explain the situation, they may allow you to use your OEM license with a new (different) MB.
Just something to be aware of.

If you now don't get the "POST "WARNING: CPU Temperature Overheat" error,
If you can run Windows, you might be able to use what you have now, as-is.
However, if you ever do get a real CPU temp problem it might fry the CPU (and MB) without warning.
I don't know for sure, i never had the issue you have.

If you do decide to get a new MB make sure it supports all your hardware (CPU, RAM, GPU, etc.) and they have a money back guarantee if things don't work for whatever reason and you need to return it.
Some of these lessons are costly, but that's how we all learn.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

From everything i've read in this thread, if you really did scratch a MB sensor I believe you will need a new Motherboard (MB) to fix the Temp/Voltages issues.
I can't tell from the screen prints about the scratches, I'm senior and my eyesight isn't like it was many years ago

If you do get a new MB you may have a licensing concern.
If you have a Retail Win 7 license, it can be transferred to a new PC/motherboard.
If it's an OEM license, it's tied to the original MB, and could be a problem transferring it to a different MB.
If you work with MS and explain the situation, they may allow you to use your OEM license with a new (different) MB.
Just something to be aware of.

If you now don't get the "POST "WARNING: CPU Temperature Overheat" error,
If you can run Windows, you might be able to use what you have now, as-is.
However, if you ever do get a real CPU temp problem it might fry the CPU (and MB) without warning.
I don't know for sure, i never had the issue you have.

If you do decide to get a new MB make sure it supports all your hardware (CPU, RAM, GPU, etc.) and they have a money back guarantee if things don't work for whatever reason and you need to return it.
Some of these lessons are costly, but that's how we all learn.

This is the ultimate conclusion I've come to. The voltages say "CPU VDDA 1.5v", but when I check that voltage in the extreme tweaker it's showing normal. All voltage options are on Auto and show normal voltage values, yet voltage monitor seems to say 1.5v for CPU voltage and 0.5v for whatever it was in the picture. Surely this isn't what the real voltage is?

 

[BorisTheAnimal]

I read this on some other support forum:

Remember, Thermal paste is an insulator... just less of an insulator than an air pocket. Paste should be the minimum amount needed to remove the air gap between two plates of metal... it does not take much. Keep in mind it should be an organic pea sized bit of paste, not some genetically engineered mondo-sized pea.

Too much paste will act like a blanket keeping the CPU hot and preventing heat transfer to the cooler.

And I'm just wondering if those last lines of text is your problem?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Too much paste will act like a blanket keeping the CPU hot and preventing heat transfer to the cooler

Well in theory that may be correct but the physics for want of a better term of it is that the compound should in theory become liquid enough the infiltrate the microscopic scratches and pits that machining of the two surfaces leave behind and again in theory therefore become a continuous medium of for heat transfer between those two surfaces.

The thickness of the medium is really decided and maintained by the pressure exerted by the clamping force exerted by the CPU retention mechanism (and viscosity of the heated compound) which ideally bring the two surfaces into very close contact - there should never be an allowance for any compound to become a blanket as described. If there is such a build up like that produces any excessive gap then the compound is in my mind far too thick a consistency to produce the very close contact that is required for the heat transfer to take place.

Now the transfer rate of any compound apart from the metallic ones (very expensive) will never equal the thermal coefficient of the metals that are producing and removing the heat generated - in the past copper was a common material for these - good although but very expensive. I am not sure but think that most these days are manufactured from aluminium which does not have that good a thermal coefficient number - a good deal less than copper or silver (the best).

Some compounds like the one brand I mentioned use a metallic base ie silver which as everyone knows is the most efficient material at conducting heat, and to use that term again in theory be one of the most efficient mediums available. A ref link The Heatsink Guide - Case Cooling

I also consider the correct cleaning of any surfaces before the compound is applied to ensure that they are as perfectly clean as possible and the Arctic Silver brand cleaner kit does just that by first cleaning and then preparing the surface for greater contact.

I have used many different types of compound from ceramic. to micro diamond etc and my results have always come up with the Arctic Silver as producing the best results.

I am not an expert on all this and stand to be corrected but it is my own logical manner of looking t=at the problem.

 

[Mellon Head]

Before you buy a new motherboard, try setting Load Line Calibration to "Off"

It causes nothing but problems on my ASUS board and causes my CPU to overheat.

 

[MeOnMine]

I agree with Boris, the OP's pic in post 27 shows a bit too much paste.
The scratch on the underside of the M/B in post 30 does not look significant.
I.E. it appears that the laquor has been scratched but not cut through the copper track.
( a better pic would help)

Wayne