Solved CPU Temperature Overheat

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Hey guys.

Just a quick update. I am currently on the same motherboard until Monday where a new board (ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z AM3+) will be delivered. Same CPU, same everything except using a Corsair Liquid Cooler. I've dismissed/ignored the BIOS temperature and voltage warnings and proceeded to boot into Windows, however, Windows has refused to start some services including my graphics drivers and a lot of others. (not sure why)

I was able to boot into Windows and launched HWMonitor and it confirms that my CPU temperature is PERFECTLY fine. It reads between 18-20 degrees Celsius. So this confirms it is the boards sensor(s) and not the CPUs sensor.

 

[DavidE]

Have you looked in Event Viewer to see if there are any errors that might explain why some services don't start ?

Run a System File Check (up to 3 times) to see if you have any errors that can't be fixed.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1538-sfc-scannow-command-system-file-checker.html

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I've noticed that my PSU is warm and that the fan isn't spinning on CorsairLink. Usually the fan doesn't kick in unless the temperature of the PSU gets warm..but usually allows me to control that fan manually. It isn't. Also my AMD Graphics drivers aren't loading still. Apparently there is no AMD driver loaded.. so I'm currently downloading the latest driver update.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Mate I don't know if I asked this before but run my little ditty as I am just curious as to the health of your PSU and especially if it is getting warm. I did notice in the CPUID readouts re the 3.3 v being a shafde over 2v and that is not right. The PSU is after all the thing that drives the rest of the components and if it is bad then needs something doing about it.
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
Power Supply 101: A Reference Of Specifications - Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Hi.

I'll do this as soon as I've got my BSOD solved mate. Thank you.

My video drivers, PSU fan/CorsairLink is working again. PSU is cool (cold cool) which is a good sign.

http://www.sevenforums.com/bsod-hel...-drivers-crimson-16-4-1-win7.html#post3237215

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Here is some information. Full reports are on Dropbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dt12qzlbv7f59lu/sensors.CSV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6y59vw8uqifwuq/KYLEPC.HTM?dl=0

 

[Mellon Head]

The voltages and temps look good to me.

Just a question, and it might be something to address after you get this overheating issue fixed up...

Your RAM is DDR3-1600. Why are you clocking it at 1333? Is there a stability issue?

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

The voltages and temps look good to me.

Just a question, and it might be something to address after you get this overheating issue fixed up...

Your RAM is DDR3-1600. Why are you clocking it at 1333? Is there a stability issue?

The BIOS sets those clocks by default for some reason. It always has unless I've been overclocking.

 

[Mellon Head]

Yeah, the BIOS will always set your RAM at 1333, no matter if it's faster or not. You don't have to OC the CPU, but you can enable the XMP profile in your BIOS (or set the speed and timings yourself if it has no XMP setting, like my ASUS board). It's not actually overclocking. It's just making your RAM run at the proper speed.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yep as Mellon Head has said mate why the RAM clock at 1333? ti is quite easy to clock it a but more nd the PSU looks pretty ok to me.

 

[BorisTheAnimal]

Why 14GB of RAM?

It's just for me a very odd number to run with RAM, normally you would have 2x8 or 4x4 but now it seems you have 3x4 + 1x2, any reason behind it or did you just happen to buy that kind of a setup?

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Why 14GB of RAM?

It's just for me a very odd number to run with RAM, normally you would have 2x8 or 4x4 but now it seems you have 3x4 + 1x2, any reason behind it or did you just happen to buy that kind of a setup?

I'm not sure. I still have 2x2GB Dominator sticks but they kept causing blue screens. The 4 I have at the moment are Vengeance. I had 3x4GB sticks sent to me by a friend as they were spare ones he had.

So I set my DRAM timings and the DRAM frequency to 1600 but it still clocks at 800 something MHz. Annoying.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

I had 3x4GB sticks sent to me by a friend

Yep well having 12GB is ok but it does mean that although you maybe using the same brand with the same timings that they could be slightly out of whack with each other.
Generally speaking it is always better tho buy sticks in matched pairs - that is ones that have come from the same production batch.
So if the 12GB was say a matched pair of 4GB sticks and a matched pair of 2GB sticks then it would be better than trusting it to luck they run in harmony rather than take pot luck that they will run good together.

Myself if I wanted more than 8GB I would buy the matched pair of 8GB or just one stick of 16GB.

If you are interested this is a good article Everything You Need to Know About the Dual-, Triple-, and Quad-Channel Memory Architectures - Enabling Dual Channel (Intel and AMD Socket AM3+) of 10 - Hardware Secrets

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I'll take a look at that article. Thanks for the tips, IC.

 

[Mellon Head]

So I set my DRAM timings and the DRAM frequency to 1600 but it still clocks at 800 something MHz. Annoying.

It will clock at 800 MHz. Remember that this is dual data rate RAM. You have to multiply the base clock speed by two in order to get the actual RAM speed. If it is clocking at 800, then the real RAM speed is actually 1600. My 1866 RAM clocks at 933 MHz.

It's very confusing. Some programs report the raw RAM speed, and others report the actual speed. Trust me, your RAM is working fine now.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

Thank you. I've added Rep for you for that post.

Either way, on Monday I'll be stripping my system down and replacing the Asus Crosshair IV Formula motherboard with a brand new Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z (AM3+) motherboard. So hopefully we'll be able to close this thread once and for all.

I am still running my system right now on the same motherboard I have the voltage and temperature sensor issue. CPU temp is perfectly fine though. System has been running for 3 hours but with BSODs, so I'm also trying to get help with that in the BSOD support forum. CPU temp is rating currently at 17-20C idle and 22-24C on load.

 

[IoNGeNeRaL]

I am going to mark this thread/issue has solved as I have successfully installed my new Crosshair V Formula-Z and the sensors are fine. (definitely wasn't a sensor issue in the CPU). I'd like to thank you ALL who took time out of your busy days to respond and help me. You're all awesome!

 

[Mellon Head]

Yay! It works!

 

[Solarstarshines]

I only read the first part of this thread but i can tell you from experience some water coolers come with crappy fans and if you really want a unit working to the fullest buy after market static pressure fans


When i get a new cooler i use my own paste not the one that came with it plus i swap the fans out unless they are a specific type anyway bottom line is water cooling is just more than setting up the block it's making sure of getting the best airflow and how you flip the fans as well

 

[ICIT2LOL]

I only read the first part of this thread but i can tell you from experience some water coolers come with crappy fans and if you really want a unit working to the fullest buy after market static pressure fans


When i get a new cooler i use my own paste not the one that came with it plus i swap the fans out unless they are a specific type anyway bottom line is water cooling is just more than setting up the block it's making sure of getting the best airflow and how you flip the fans as well

Yep well I agree with all that and as you have already seen I have my own personal way of applying compound. So far I have been lucky with the fans as the coolers I have had are the better known brands and they usually come with a decent fan. Just a by the by I always try and fit another exhaust fan between the cooler one - larger if possible to the external vent As a general rule I tend to over fan a machine and so far have been able to keep the noise to a bearable level. Unfortunately the old Nexus Silents are hard to get now so it is a matter of trial and error.