Soooo i'm back
i just want Windows 7 already
is it possible to take the second SSD i have put it into and old tower and boot and install windows from there and when its done put that back into my main computer
please help me
You can't just install Windows to a drive on one machine (i.e. CPU, motherboard, etc.) and then transplant the drive to a second machine. Not legal for licensing and activation reasons, and very challenging for replacing drivers that got installed for the first set of hardware and now have to deal with a new set of hardware.
There really are two "proper" approaches to wanting to run both Win7 and Win10 on the same machine and have them both be available, either separately or simultaneously. The simultaneous approach establishes Win10 as the basic Windows environment and platform, and then you run Win7 inside a VM (virtual machine) window inside of Win10 (just like any other program). This gives you full Win7 capability to run one or more Win7 programs in a Win7 environment, but facilitated through the VM capability of Win10. So you have BOTH worlds available simultaneously, and you can choose to live mostly (or always) in Win7 this way if you prefer, while at the same time being able to be in Win10 at the same time.
Alternatively, the second more traditional approach is to separately install both Win7 (which you install first) and Win10 (which you install second), on two separate partitions of one or two HDD/SSD drives. Ideally you target a totally empty fully available drive. This allows you to choose to actually boot to either "primary" Windows at machine boot time, at which point the BIOS locates the "system reserved" partition where Boot Manager lives, and launches Boot Manager. A "Boot Manager menu" is then presented to you listing the one or more uniquely installed bootable Windows systems you can choose to go to, and Boot Manager will then make that happen.
Installing the "older" Windows, i.e. Win7, first causes the creation of the Boot Manager partition in the old Win7 format with the Win7 Boot Manager menu. Initially, only the one Win7 item will be on that menu. And the Win7 system partition itself (i.e. where Windows lives, and which will get the C drive letter when you eventually come up under the Win7 desktop) is also built. Depending on several factors the totally empty target drive will be partitioned as either MBR or GPT, and the two partitions allocated on it (with the Windows system partition either taking the entire rest of the drive, or it can be kept smaller if you want). Then if you want to later install Win10 to its own separate system partition on the same physical drive along with the Win7 system partition they will both fit.
The later install of Win10 as your second bootable Windows will discover the pre-existence of the Win7 Boot Manager "system reserved" partition with its pre-existing Boot Manager menu (which points to the Win7 system partition on this same drive) and when you target the Win10 install for the remaining free space on one drive (or alternatively point to free space on a second drive) the pre-existing Boot Manager will be updated to add the new information for the new second bootable Windows, i.e. Win10. So you will then see the TWO bootable Windows choices on the menu when you machine boot, with Win10 pre-selected as the default OS to automatically boot to if you don't press enter for 30 seconds. Or, you can use the arrow key to navigate to the Win7 item and press ENTER, to boot to Win7.
So, you must install Win7 first, and Win10 second, for this traditional Boot Manager dual-boot method. You can install to two partitions on one drive, or you can place Win7 on one drive (along with Boot Manager which gets created via the install of Win7 to an empty drive) and Win10 on a second drive. There's no special benefit to one drive or two, as Boot Manager can find both OS's from its menu information.
But, you must then be able to install Win7 from scratch to your Ryzen machine, and that's not possible without adding "missing USB 3.0 drivers" that were never provided with original Win7 installer from 2009. You're going to have to first create updated Win7 install media, that adds the missing USB 3.0 drivers for Ryzen (or Skylake, or whatever new hardware chipset your motherboard might have that requires USB 3.0 drivers which are missing from the old Win7 installer). If your target HDD/SSD is SATA then that's fine for Win7. But if your target SSD is M.2 PCIe NVMe then drivers for that target hardware is also missing from the retail 2009 Win7 installer. So the missing NVMe driver must also be added to your newly built updated Win7 installer along with the missing USB 3.0 driver, both added to the original 2009 Win7 installer either on CD/DVD or ISO file. The output typically is a new bootable USB flash drive (probably 8GB is the right size), and you will use this to install Win7 from.
After Win7 is installed, you next install Win10. And everything I said above would happen will happen. You will pick a target unallocated space for the Win10 system partition to get created in (which will become its C drive letter when you boot to Win10), wherever on whatever drive you want to place it on. The Win10 installer will convert the pre-existing Boot Manager software in the "system reserved" partition to be the new Boot Manager (you won't notice the difference), and will add the second Win10 line to the pre-existing Boot Manager menu, and will make that Win10 item line the default pre-selected bootable OS. Note that you can later change things about this Boot Menu, such as making Win7 the default pre-selected Windows to boot to automatically if no ENTER is pressed, change the default timeout period from 30 seconds to 10 seconds, etc.
So, if you don't want to run Win7 as a VM under Win10 (which hides the need to find missing drivers and recreate new Win7 install media for your Ryzen machine), then you're going to have to build new Win7 install media which will be usable on your Ryzen machine. And that means you must get USB 3.0 drivers, and optionally NVMe drivers if you're going to be targeting to M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Finally, for now while you're still running Win10, I recommend you quickly install
Stardock's Start10 software (it will cost you $4.99). This facilitates the old Win7 Start button and Start Menu and all related functionality, running on Win10 but making you believe you are running Win7. Simultaneously, if you want, you can also show the Win10 start button menu interface instead any time. You have both available for you to use at all times, any time you want to use one or the other.
Trust me, bringing back the old comfortable Win7 Start button and menu user interface makes Win10 very very very similar to Win7. You will calm down, I'm sure. Overall Win10 is faster, sleeker, prettier, etc., and it makes sense to use it (especially with new hardware where Win10 is the only way to get drivers going forward). But by reinstalling the old classic Win7 Start button and menu is really what everybody wants, and Start10 will do exactly that for you.
One more thing... many apps run in Win10 with "blurry font". Well known issue for a long time (started with Win8) related to Windows scaling (e.g. text at 125%) for high-resolution monitors (e.g. 1920x1200, 2560x1440, etc.). There has been much discussion about this, and many "solutions" offered on the internet. My own "solution" is simply to use "compatibilty mode" settings for each individual program's shortcut icon that you would normally double-click to launch the program, and that you want to eliminate the "blurry font" for. This method should work 100% of the time, or close to it.
Right-click on the program's shortcut icon, and select Properties. Then select the "compatibility" tab. Down near the bottom of the compatibility window, push the "change high DPI settings" to get a second properties window. On this second window down near the bottom check the "override high DPI scaling behavior" box, and leave "application" selected inside the "scaling performed by" listbox. Then OK your way back up and out.
The next time you launch this program the program will present its text font character output the same way it did in Win7, and there should be no blur whatsoever to text. So you can still set Windows desktop display properties text size to 125% (as I do for high-resolution large monitors, for improved readability) but the text is sharp and focused, and not blurry.
Give it a try. You can always undo it easily if you don't like the result, just by unchecking the "override high DPI scaling behavior" option I had you check.
I think that with this fix for blurry font, and use of Start10, you will find that Win10 is nothing but an improvement over Win7 in many regards. Yes, MS has moved some things around and you have to get used to the occasional somewhat new way to set and customize things, but after a while you will get used to it. The real "bring me back to Earth" solution for you is Start10, and the fix to un-blur text with that "compatibility" option setting.
