New build not booting

blackroseMD1

(nothing can stop me now)
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So I built this computer about 5 months ago and it would start to boot, and then shut off. I posted about it here, and someone said that the mobo was probably fried. Well, today I finally got a new mobo and threw it in there. It booted up the first time, all the way to the "Please insert boot media" message. I put in the Win 7 DVD and restarted the comp. It started to boot, then immediately shut off. Same problem I was having last time. I know the mobo is good, because I took every precaution I could while installing it. I'm thinking that, even though the CPU cooler is running...the CPU is overheating. Could it be a lack of adequate thermal paste that is causing the issue? Any ideas are appreciated.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
Overheating would be my first guess too, but it isn't the only thing that might cause that. To check for an overheating issue, there should be a "PC Health" zone, or something like that in the BIOS. Check to see how hot your CPU is getting first, and we'll go from there. Also, make sure your CMOS jumper isn't shorted. Most boards won't even fire up with it shorted, but some do, but then shutdown shortly after firing up. If you find that your CPU is getting hotter than the shutdown temp that's set in the BIOS, you may have to raise it slighly, or even disable it, until you get a better heatsink [if it isn't dangerously hot]. Read the boards documentation meticilously.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
The only problem is...I can't even get to the bios at the moment. I'm planning on just running down to Fry's tomorrow and grabbing some thermal paste and seeing if that helps. If not, I may try swapping out my cooler from this comp to the new build to see if that helps.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
If your saying your not using thermal paste at all, then of course it's an overheating issue. Don't even attempt to run it like that. You will probably end up toasting your CPU.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
No, it has some thermal paste on there, but as I was installing the cooler, a bit came off on my hands. All that was on there was what was already on it from the factory.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
No, it has some thermal paste on there, but as I was installing the cooler, a bit came off on my hands. All that was on there was what was already on it from the factory.
That's not unusual. Most people over do it with the themal paste anyway. Thermal paste is only a filler for the microscopic peaks & valley's between the CPU, and heatsink. You only need a dab. What hardware do you currently have hooked up to the board? Try to get into the BIOS to see your CPU temp with just a single memory module installed [no HDD(s) or optical drive(s) hooked up].
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
I have a 7200 RPM HD, optical drive, 2x2GB DDR2 RAM sticks, Geforce 8800 GTS and a multicard reader. I'll work on it some more tomorrow, gonna crash right now.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
I have a 7200 RPM HD, optical drive, 2x2GB DDR2 RAM sticks, Geforce 8800 GTS and a multicard reader. I'll work on it some more tomorrow, gonna crash right now.

By way of agreeing with Mad Max....


This sounds like it might be hardware initialization errors...

When the system starts up is there any beeping from the internal buzzer/speaker?

You have one good clue... it's done this with two motherboards, so it's not likely the mobo itself... could be disks not spinning up, memory not fully seated, CPU problems, power supply...

For first boot I always minimize the hardware. Imbedded video, sound, etc. keyboard, mouse, 1 memory strip, 1 hard disk, no optical, no accessories... The only goal at that point is to get into the BIOS settings so you can configure them.

Then, as the build progresses, I add video, sound etc. each in their own restart of the system... That way if I run into problems I know what caused it!

One trick for the really stubborn ones --and I know this isn't kosher, so proceed with caution-- is to remove the CMOS battery, start the system up and let it error out on BIOS initialization. You should get a message saying "CMOS settings bad", "Press Del to enter setup" and some boards will even take you directly into the BIOS when that happens. Once in the BIOS put the battery back in... do your detection and settings, then reboot.... on about a 50:50 basis this fixes the problem for me.

I don't know if anyone else has noticed this but of late I've had a whole string of boards (mostly ASUS) where the CMOS checksum is bad and the thing won't start. The battery trick has almost become SOP with those boards.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew
OS
XP Pro SP3 X86 / Win7 Pro X86
CPU
Amd 64 x2 4200 (2.4ghz)
Motherboard
Asus M2N-MX SE Plus
Memory
Kingston DDR2 800 2gb
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GF-8400
Sound Card
Realtek on Motherboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer x-193bw
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Western Digital 500g
PSU
350watt In-Win
Case
In-Win
Cooling
Air
Keyboard
yes
Mouse
yes
Internet Speed
5mpbs
Other Info
Also ASRock ION 330 as HTPC (on XP).
Acer Aspire as GP netbook (on XP).
Are you using the stock CPU heatsink? Is it mounted properly? What color was your thermal paste?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Pro
I have a 7200 RPM HD, optical drive, 2x2GB DDR2 RAM sticks, Geforce 8800 GTS and a multicard reader. I'll work on it some more tomorrow, gonna crash right now.
Just use a single stick of RAM, your video card, and a keyboard hooked up to get into the BIOS, nothing else [but obviously your CPU & heatsink too...LOL]. You don't need a mouse to navigate the BIOS. You can hook the other stuff up after you get the BIOS stable.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
Thanks guys....I'll go hardware minimal tomorrow, as I was in meetings all day. I'm building this for my boss, so it's kind of crucial that I get it running.

One thing I noticed is that one of the heatsink's tabs (the ones that clip to the bottom of the keyboard after you push them through) is missing. It may be uneven contact with the CPU that's causing it. I hope not though...I would much rather buy thermal paste than a new cooler. :p
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
I the past few months I have had some BAD power supply units come with new bare bone cases. I get part way into the install & the computer freezes or shuts down. Can you try a different PSU ?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built them myself, Science Experiments !
OS
Win7 Enterprise, Win7 x86 (Ult 7600), Win7 x64 Ult 7600, TechNet RTM on AMD x64 (2.8Ghz)
CPU
AMD fx8350 4ghz, AMD-32 2400mhz, AMD-64 3200mhz, AMDx64 2.8G
Motherboard
SIS 755, ECS-K8M890M-M (Ult 7600), GigaByte & others
Memory
2gb, 4gb on the Ult 7600, 4gb on Technet RTM, 32gb on FX8350
Graphics Card(s)
Draw my own Graphics, several nVidia cards
Sound Card
on motherboard
Monitor(s) Displays
19" flat scr, 28" I-Inc widescr,22" Emprex Widescr, 23" Acer
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024, 1440 x 900, 1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
6 pata Ide HD's & 2 Sata HD's
added 80gb external on Ult 7600 computer,
numerous extra 1tb, 2TB, 3Tb SATA HD's
A collection of ext HD Docks w/ HDs
PSU
430w, 550w, 600w, 700, 800, etc
Case
All Generic Full Towers
Cooling
Open Air & a few fans, some w/ colored LEDs
Keyboard
Compaq & Dell recycled from GoodWill
Mouse
Made in China Optical Wired Mouse
Internet Speed
Fast Cable InterNet
Antivirus
AVG Free on 24 different Desktops, NO Problems!
Browser
IE 8 is preferred, but use FireFox sometimes
Other Info
Linksys Routers, switches, & Hubs
Too Many USB Flash Drives to count, Biggest is 64GB !
Eight computers in my home network.
Sixteen computers at my business network.
Linked via TeamViewer !
Lots of old used spare computer parts everywhere!
It may not be overheating, so much as no heat detection. I had this problem with an old pc when I didnt put the heat sink on tight enough. It would start up for about a minute and shut off without a second delay.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Me
OS
Windows 7 Pro
CPU
Athlon II x4 620
Motherboard
Gigabyte
Memory
2gb ddr2 800mhz 6-6-6-16
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 4850
Sound Card
Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
1366 x 768
Hard Drives
WDC Black 500gb
PSU
OCZ ceritified SLI ready 500w
Case
Cool Master Mid tower
Cooling
Stock
I the past few months I have had some BAD power supply units come with new bare bone cases. I get part way into the install & the computer freezes or shuts down. Can you try a different PSU ?

It's not the PSU. I switched out the one from this comp to that one, and it did the same thing. I'm really thinking that it has something to do with the CPU, although I straight switched the mobo to the other comp when I upgraded mine, so there was no swapping out of CPUs.


It may not be overheating, so much as no heat detection. I had this problem with an old pc when I didnt put the heat sink on tight enough. It would start up for about a minute and shut off without a second delay.

That could be it...there is one semi loose leg on the cooler.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
That could be it...there is one semi loose leg on the cooler.
This is the first time you have mentioned that problem in this thread. The heatsink being flush [with even pressure] on the CPU is absolutely critical. Either get a new clip, or a heatsink before going any further [even if that isn't the cause of the problem, which I bet it is]. You'll just be playing with fire if you let that problem slide. The CPU, and it's heatsink is the most critical part of a new build to get absolutely correct. There's no compromising. It has to be dead on. This was most likely the problem when you did the build with the other board as well.

Since you need another heatsink, try not to skimp on an off brand. Spend the extra few bucks, and stick with OCZ, Thermaltake, or Antec. You'll be glad you did in the end. Trust me.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
I the past few months I have had some BAD power supply units come with new bare bone cases. I get part way into the install & the computer freezes or shuts down. Can you try a different PSU ?

Without a doubt the most under-rated, and overlooked component of a new build by most people, is the PSU. Rarely do you get a quality PSU with good clean power in a barebones kit, or a case that comes with a PSU. I recommend dual, or quad 12v rails when buying a PSU. High performance all starts with the PSU. Period.

My friends wondered why my benchmarks were so high on my old socket 939 board, with just an AMD Athlon 64x2 3800+ dual core CPU. It begins & ends with my OCZ 600w dual 12v rail PSU, combined with OCZ Platinum dual channel memory modules [with super low latency, but not overclocked]. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
I the past few months I have had some BAD power supply units come with new bare bone cases. I get part way into the install & the computer freezes or shuts down. Can you try a different PSU ?

Without a doubt the most under-rated, and overlooked component of a new build by most people, is the PSU. Rarely do you get a quality PSU with good clean power in a barebones kit, or a case that comes with a PSU. I recommend dual, or quad 12v rails when buying a PSU. High performance all starts with the PSU. Period.
. ;)

+ 1 Well said.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P4P800-VM Motherboard Chipset: Intel 865G + ICH5
Memory
2.50 GB RAM
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GS
Sound Card
SoundMax Integrated Digital Audio (Chip)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX 1962 wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 80 GB
ST380215A ATA Device 18.6 GB
Western Digital "My Book" external hard drive 750 GB
Cooling
Fan based
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 v10 USB
Mouse
Logitec optic USB
Internet Speed
3.01 Mb/s download 0.64 Mb/s upload
Picked up a new heatsink. Gonna throw it in in a couple hours. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
Avast!
Browser
Chrome
Picked up a new heatsink. Gonna throw it in in a couple hours. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I would like to offer a little precautionary advice for your heatsink installation. Take the extra time to remove the motherboard from the case, and set it on the static free wrapping it came with to install the heatsink. When the motherboard is in the case it's only sitting on studs, and could possibly crack from applying a great deal of pressure to install the heatsink. At least, this is what I always do. I imagine you can get away with installing it with the motherboard still in the case, but I never risk a hairline crack.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
NVIDIA
OS
Windows 7 Enterprise x64
CPU
AMD Athlon 64X2 Dual Core 3800+
Motherboard
GeForce 6100-M9
Memory
OCZ Platinum Dual Channel - 4x1Gb
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT PCI Express x16
Sound Card
Creative Audigy Sound Blaster Extreme PCI
Monitor(s) Displays
Compaq 7500
Screen Resolution
1024x768
Hard Drives
C: Seagate ST3250318AS SataII - 250Gb

D: Seagate ST3500418AS SataII - 500Gb
PSU
OCZ 600w Dual 12v Rails
Case
Thermaltake
Cooling
OCZ Heatsinks, Fans, and Thermal Paste on CPU & Chipsets
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Radio Shack PS2
Internet Speed
Cable
Other Info
Dual Pioneer DVD/RW optical drives. LG CD/RW optical drive.
Well, I took the mobo out, installed the heatsink, and am still having the same issue. The mobo has error LEDs on it, and just before it shuts off, LED 2 is lit. Looking in the manual indicates that this is a VGA error.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
SuperBeast
OS
Windows 10 Tech Preview 9926 x64
CPU
AMD FX-8350
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333
Graphics Card(s)
Asus R9 290 DirectCU II OC, Gigabyte Windforce R9 290 OC
Sound Card
Integrated w/ Creative A250 2.1 speakers
Monitor(s) Displays
Main: Asus VN289H 28" Secondary: Acer G246HL 24"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
128 GB SanDisk Ultra Plus (Windows drive)

240 GB Crucial M500 SSD (Games drive)

1 TB WDC WD10EACS 7200RPM HDD (Data drive)

2 TB Seagate Expansion Desktop external HDD (Backup drive)
PSU
900w Antec HCG-900
Case
Raidmax Agusta Full ATX
Cooling
Corsair H80
Keyboard
Cooler Master Devastator MB24
Mouse
Cooler Master Devastator MS2K 1000/1600/2000 DPI
Internet Speed
100Mbps cable
Antivirus
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