System refuses to boot after memory upgrade

mollysnoot

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I've just tried to upgrade my PC's memory from 8GB to 16GB and have hit a rather worrying problem in that the PC now refuses to boot. Initially, once I'd replaced the old memory modules with the new ones, I got three beeps on power-up, which I quickly established was the result of my not properly seating the modules. Once I'd made sure they were firmly inserted I tried again, and this time all I get is the computer powering up - so all the lights come on and the fans kick into life - but then it powers down again without even attempting to boot: I don't even get to the BIOS. After a few tries I decided that it might be an issue with one or more of the new modules, so I swapped them back to the original 8GB kit and I still get the same problem. My PC is essentially DOA. Whilst I was inserting/re-inserting modules I did try to avoid and issues with static discharge. I wonder if perhaps I've disturbed a connector somewhere, although I couldn't see any signs of this when I re-opened the case to check.

The new modules are a 16GB Corsair Vengence DDR3 dual-channel 4-module kit (4x4GB). They were replacing a 4 module 8GB DDR3 dual-channel kit (4x2GB), so in both cases all four slots were in use. Motherboard is an Intel DP55WG, which is listed by Corsair as being compatable (16GB is the max for this motherboard). I've been running this system for two years prior to my upgrade attempt this evening, and it's been rock solid with no issues.

I wonder if anyone has any ideas I could try? Maybe I should reset the CMOS for instance? Note that I'm not a hardware guy, and messing around inside the case isn't something I normally even consider trying... But I thought that this would be a very simple, trouble-free upgrade! :huh:

I'd be grateful for any assistance as I really need this machine back up and running ASAP.

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Check the voltage on the motherboard boot menu. Happened to me once.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64 bits
Check the voltage on the motherboard boot menu. Happened to me once.

But how do I do that if I can't even get to the BIOS? As I say, I'm no expert on these matters!

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Good question. I forget how I handled that. I think you need to put the old memory back change the voltage to match the new memory and plug the new one after. But make sure you selecting the right voltage.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64 bits
Good question. I forget how I handled that. I think you need to put the old memory back change the voltage to match the new memory and plug the new one after. But make sure you selecting the right voltage.

But as I said in my original post, I tried putting the old memory back in and it still won't boot. :( Sorry if I wasn't clear.

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Do I understand this correctly:

You can no longer boot with the ORIGINAL memory sticks?

Even with just 1 of the original 4 sticks?

It certainly sounds like something got dis-connected while you were inside the case or the RAM is not inserted correctly.

Did you notice the keyway on the bottom edge of the RAM sticks which must be honored if you intend to properly seat the sticks? Are those little locking arms on each end of the RAM slots up and locked into place?

Take another look inside for unconnected cables or empty connectors that you cannot explain.

You could pull out the battery for a minute or so to clear the CMOS.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I was gonna suggest holding the power button for 30 seconds with the power, and 30 seconds with the power cable unplugged. But the last. Post makes sense maybe something got disconnected by accident. Best thing is to leave the minimum amount of things plugged in and see if it boots up.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 ultimate 64 bits
Do I understand this correctly:

You can no longer boot with the ORIGINAL memory sticks?

Even with just 1 of the original 4 sticks?

It certainly sounds like something got dis-connected while you were inside the case or the RAM is not inserted correctly.

Did you notice the keyway on the bottom edge of the RAM sticks which must be honored if you intend to properly seat the sticks? Are those little locking arms on each end of the RAM slots up and locked into place?

Take another look inside for unconnected cables or empty connectors that you cannot explain.

Yes, that's correct.

I didn't try with just one stick though, will give that a go in the morning. Is it possible that the RAM still isn't properly seated, even though I'm not getting a three beep warning from the motherboard? Perhaps I need to use a little more pressure. One issue I had is that the graphics card (ATI Radeon 5850) is right under the memory slots, making it awkward to access the clips at one side. Perhaps this is related.

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I didn't try with just one stick though, will give that a go in the morning. Is it possible that the RAM still isn't properly seated, even though I'm not getting a three beep warning from the motherboard? Perhaps I need to use a little more pressure. One issue I had is that the graphics card (ATI Radeon 5850) is right under the memory slots, making it awkward to access the clips at one side. Perhaps this is related.

M

Are those locking arms on the RAM slots locked in the up position or not?

Did you notice the keyway or not?

Get the video card out of there temporarily if it is interfering.

It can take a lot of pressure to seat RAM, but if you've got the keyway mis-aligned it will never happen.

The keyway forces you to properly align since it is NOT at the midpoint of the stick. The sticks will go in ONLY 1 way. That is--there is such a thing as "backwards" and "backwards" will not work.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I didn't try with just one stick though, will give that a go in the morning. Is it possible that the RAM still isn't properly seated, even though I'm not getting a three beep warning from the motherboard? Perhaps I need to use a little more pressure. One issue I had is that the graphics card (ATI Radeon 5850) is right under the memory slots, making it awkward to access the clips at one side. Perhaps this is related.

M

Are those locking arms on the RAM slots locked in the up position or not?

Did you notice the keyway or not?

Get the video card out of there temporarily if it is interfering.

It can take a lot of pressure to seat RAM, but if you've got the keyway mis-aligned it will never happen.

The keyway forces you to properly align since it is NOT at the midpoint of the stick. The sticks will go in ONLY 1 way. That is--there is such a thing as "backwards" and "backwards" will not work.

They appear to be locked up, and the top ones clicked into place. The bottom ones didn't click up fully though - they needed a bit of manual assistance (very tricky with that card in the way). I'm starting to think it may be worth removing the graphics card, but I'm a bit wary of doing so as it looked pretty well fixed in. I did appreciate the the keyways/notches had to be lines up and I believe that they were.

Thanks for your help by the way.:)

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
The graphics card probably will need to be removed. I had that problem once. They go in and out easier than memory in most cases.

-Simply unscrew the mechanism that locks the jacks plate in place and most will just pull out.
-Some mobos will need for you to press down on similar locks like at the ends of the memory modules.
-Make sure the memory is seated properly with the tabs locked in the upright position on the memory modules.
-Replace the graphics card in the reverse order of steps you used to take it out. It will be recognized automatically by the computer like the memory should be.

If the tabs are not fully up, the memory might not be seated properly even if you apply a lot of pressure, because they will usually lever the memory modules up and out when pressed down. Make sure you try to stay in touch with the case to avoid static discharges that can ocassionally damage the memory and other electronics. Always unplug from the outlet.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7-980x Extreme Ed. 3.33Ghz CPU
Motherboard
ASUS Rampage III Extreme Intel X58 LGA1366 MoBo
Memory
OCZ Gold 2048MB PC16000 DDR3 2000MHz Triple Channel (X6)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Superclocked 1536MB GDDR5 Video Card
Sound Card
NVIDIA High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
1. Samsung SyncMaster P2570HD 2. Hanns-G HW173D
Screen Resolution
1. Samsung- 1920x1080 2. Hanns-G- 1440x900
Hard Drives
1 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 SSD (OS)

1 RAID-0 (Storage)
Including-1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Black HD X 1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Blue HD
PSU
ULTRA X4 1600w Modular Power Supply
Case
Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Black Case
Cooling
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech MK700
Mouse
Logitech M705
Internet Speed
31.61 Mbps Download/ 2.51 Mbps Upload
The graphics card probably will need to be removed. I had that problem once. They go in and out easier than memory in most cases.

-Simply unscrew the mechanism that locks the jacks plate in place and most will just pull out.
-Some mobos will need for you to press down on similar locks like at the ends of the memory modules.
-Make sure the memory is seated properly with the tabs locked in the upright position on the memory modules.
-Replace the graphics card in the reverse order of steps you used to take it out. It will be recognized automatically by the computer like the memory should be.

If the tabs are not fully up, the memory might not be seated properly even if you apply a lot of pressure, because they will usually lever the memory modules up and out when pressed down. Make sure you try to stay in touch with the case to avoid static discharges that can ocassionally damage the memory and other electronics. Always unplug from the outlet.

Thanks for this, much appreciated. The more I think about it, the more I think it could be that the graphics card prevented the tabs from working correctly, and what you say gives me more confidence that this might be the issue. I'll remove the graphics card and try again with the memory modules before replacing the graphics card again - I'll give this a try in a few hours (late night now here in the UK and time for bed!).

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
OK, I've made some progress with this, and at least it seems all my hardware is working properly:

- I removed the graphics card and reseated the four memory modules; this time, the process was much easier as I had more space to get access, and the clips were able to clip down and back up again without hitting the graphics card.

- Put everything back together, but still no boot up or access to BIOS.

- Removed the battery to reset the CMOS, still no dice.

- Found that my motherboard has a 'back to BIOS' button. Pressed that and it booted up to BIOS - yay! Checked all the settings (bearing in mind my limited knowledge here) and was able to confirm that the new 16GB memory was recognised by the system (although it's at 1333MhZ rather than the 1600MhZ it should be capable of running at, but I can look into that later).

- Exited the BIOS and Windows started to boot... Until it stopped dead.

I've repeatedly tried using the Windows Startup Recovery tool that automatically launches at this point, but it's been "unable to find a solution to the problem". Everything launches as per normal, but once it gets to the Windows loading screen (swirly blobs that form the Win7 logo) it freezes, then powers off. I also tried reverting to a recent restore point: didn't think it would work, and sadly it didn't.

I'm starting to think that the next course of action will have to be using system restore from a system image I have on an external hard drive. (fairly recent, but I think I'll subsequently need to install a couple of recent applications). I have my data backed up, so won't lose any files. Do you think this is a good course of action, or are there alternatives that I could try out?

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
You haven't listed your system specs in your profile, but just for good measure, I would make sure the new memory is compatable with the board according to the Intel (mobo) website before you restore from a backup copy. You can also try to "Repair Windows" from the system disk if you have it.

-Boot to BIOS and make sure your cd/dvd drive is first bootable drive.
-Place Windows system disk in drive save settings and reboot.
-Windows will load from the disk and you will have an option at the bottom left to "Repair Windows"
-Select "Repair Windows" and I think the option is system restore on the next screeen.
-Just make sure you don't reinstall Windows yet.
-This option will not affect your personal files.

You say you do get a normal POST, though, right? Usually a single short beep. If you do, and have exausted the first two options, then you may need to go ahead and do a system restore from your backup (which will affect some of your more recent files) because it is some other problem.

If none of those work, then a fresh install of the OS may need to be done. It is a good thing that you have an external, recent backup of your files, you will be able to restore them after a fresh install of the OS if necessary.

Hope this helps.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7-980x Extreme Ed. 3.33Ghz CPU
Motherboard
ASUS Rampage III Extreme Intel X58 LGA1366 MoBo
Memory
OCZ Gold 2048MB PC16000 DDR3 2000MHz Triple Channel (X6)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Superclocked 1536MB GDDR5 Video Card
Sound Card
NVIDIA High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
1. Samsung SyncMaster P2570HD 2. Hanns-G HW173D
Screen Resolution
1. Samsung- 1920x1080 2. Hanns-G- 1440x900
Hard Drives
1 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 SSD (OS)

1 RAID-0 (Storage)
Including-1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Black HD X 1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Blue HD
PSU
ULTRA X4 1600w Modular Power Supply
Case
Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Black Case
Cooling
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech MK700
Mouse
Logitech M705
Internet Speed
31.61 Mbps Download/ 2.51 Mbps Upload
You haven't listed your system specs in your profile, but just for good measure, I would make sure the new memory is compatable with the board according to the Intel (mobo) website before you restore from a backup copy. You can also try to "Repair Windows" from the system disk if you have it.

-Boot to BIOS and make sure your cd/dvd drive is first bootable drive.
-Place Windows system disk in drive save settings and reboot.
-Windows will load from the disk and you will have an option at the bottom left to "Repair Windows"
-Select "Repair Windows" and I think the option is system restore on the next screeen.
-Just make sure you don't reinstall Windows yet.
-This option will not affect your personal files.

You say you do get a normal POST, though, right? Usually a single short beep. If you do, and have exausted the first two options, then you may need to go ahead and do a system restore from your backup (which will affect some of your more recent files) because it is some other problem.

If none of those work, then a fresh install of the OS may need to be done. It is a good thing that you have an external, recent backup of your files, you will be able to restore them after a fresh install of the OS if necessary.

Hope this helps.

Thanks again.

Yes, I'm now getting past POST, something I wasn't able to do until this morning. The backtoBIOS button allowed me to do so - bit odd really.

The memory is compatible according to the Corsair website. The Intel information supplied for the motherboard doesn't list these specific modules as tested, but it's a bit out of date now; however, the general information at the top of the relevant page does match the specs listed by Corsair. So there seem to be no issues there.

Unfortunately I don't have the original Windows DVD: my PC was a custom build by a company called Novatech over here in the UK and they pre-installed Windows as part of the build. I sometimes think I should have just installed it myself and got the disk...

As i said though. I do have a fairly recent system image available on an EHD, so it looks as though I may need to go down that route.

I did just try to disable the automatic shutdown when Windoes detects a problem, resulting in a blue screen with the following code: 0x00000007B. Not sure if that means anything to you? I've searched for the code online and there seems to be a wide variety of causes and solutions.

M
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Issue has been resolved!

Just to update, I've fixed this problem and am now up an running with 16GB. To say I'm pleased about this is something of an understatement!

I did some research into the BSOD error code, and it relates to Windows not being able to identify the disc partion to load the OS from (in my terminology anyway). I spent some time checking the BIOS and noticed that it was set to IDE for the SATA controller. Based on some of the information I've read through today (a lot) I decided to try changing this to AHCI... And Windows booted up. I did reset the BIOS (as well as clearing the CMOS, which I would imagine would reset it anyway?) and the company who built my PC must have opted for AHCI. The reset obvioulsy changed that to a default IDE setting.

Thanks ever so much to all who offered up their help and assistance, especially Chrisb647100. You helped me to work through this issue and come to a positive outcome. (Always been impressed by the folks and information on this forum (I'm a long time lurker), and my opinion is now even higher.)

M :D
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Glad to see you've got it all resolved. And I commend you for the detail you've provided throughout your steps/posts!

Stick around!
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Thanks for the update mollysnoot. I am also glad to see you worked it all out. :thumbsup:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit
CPU
Intel Core i7-980x Extreme Ed. 3.33Ghz CPU
Motherboard
ASUS Rampage III Extreme Intel X58 LGA1366 MoBo
Memory
OCZ Gold 2048MB PC16000 DDR3 2000MHz Triple Channel (X6)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 580 Superclocked 1536MB GDDR5 Video Card
Sound Card
NVIDIA High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
1. Samsung SyncMaster P2570HD 2. Hanns-G HW173D
Screen Resolution
1. Samsung- 1920x1080 2. Hanns-G- 1440x900
Hard Drives
1 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 SSD (OS)

1 RAID-0 (Storage)
Including-1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Black HD X 1 WD 1TB 7200rpm Caviar Blue HD
PSU
ULTRA X4 1600w Modular Power Supply
Case
Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Black Case
Cooling
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech MK700
Mouse
Logitech M705
Internet Speed
31.61 Mbps Download/ 2.51 Mbps Upload
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