IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL Windows 7 x64

xChase

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Happening at random. Everything is up to date, drivers, windows updates etc. This is a brand new machine that I've had for about 2 months. I have previously had a virus (SystemWin.exe/PsP2Clnt.exe) but have cleaned them to the best of my ability; I do think that I might require a clean install but I REALLY don't want to do that so this is kind of my last resort. I've ran the windows memory test and it says its fine, I plan to run MemTest86 overnight. I've attached all dump files over the last month and my sys info, thanks for reading.

Edit: Did some more research, there's one thing I haven't updated, my BIOS. B150M-A | Motherboards | ASUS Global It looks like I don't need it because it's for CPU support and mines been validated a long while ago as you can see here: ASUSTeK Computer Inc. -CPU Support- (i5 6600). I've never flashed BIOS and it seems I should only do it when necessary, wondering if I should ignore it?
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Hello Chase mate do the memtest first but remember to run it for at least 8 passes any less and you may as well not bother. However if the errors come up fairly quickly then you can stop it.
Then it is a matter of testing each stick (am assuming you have two sticks of RAM) to find the rogue one and just replace it remembering again to replace it with a stick of close specs and preferably the same brand.

This is the test we recommend - if you didn't know already RAM - Test with Memtest86+ as the Windows feature I do not consider much good at all and 8GB may take some time a job best left for when you are not using the machine - overnight is a good time to consider.

The BIOS I would leave for now and you could run these too if you have been infected.
SUPERAntiSpyware | Remove Malware | Remove Spyware - AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, AntiAdware!
Malwarebytes | Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Premium
AdwCleaner Download
ADW download from bleeping computer delete any rubbish found with the malware scans
 

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Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Hello Chase mate do the memtest first but remember to run it for at least 8 passes any less and you may as well not bother. However if the errors come up fairly quickly then you can stop it.
Then it is a matter of testing each stick (am assuming you have two sticks of RAM) to find the rogue one and just replace it remembering again to replace it with a stick of close specs and preferably the same brand.

This is the test we recommend - if you didn't know already RAM - Test with Memtest86+ as the Windows feature I do not consider much good at all and 8GB may take some time a job best left for when you are not using the machine - overnight is a good time to consider.

The BIOS I would leave for now and you could run these too if you have been infected.
SUPERAntiSpyware | Remove Malware | Remove Spyware - AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, AntiAdware!
Malwarebytes | Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Premium
AdwCleaner Download
ADW download from bleeping computer delete any rubbish found with the malware scans

Just ran the test then for two hours and it only did 4/4 passes, how can I change the pass amount? I'll change it and run it overnight tonight. The BSOD as well as "Modification of a critical data structure or system detected" seem to only effect my system when I change the power setting to high power, so I have a feeling it's to do with voltage somewhere but I have NO idea how to configure that type of thing.

E: Ok I ran memtest86 overnight, it seems it did only 4 passes and I can't find out where to change the amount, this is what it looks like upon completion: http://i.imgur.com/cjdi6SG.png. The other reason I think it's to do with power, is that whenever I turn my PC on, I hear a pop or two thru my headphones, it sounds like a remnant of an electrical surge.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Can anyone help? Getting more BSODs now, Modification of a critical data structure detected IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL A thread tried to release a resource it did not own all at complete and utter random. Still don't know how to manually change memtest passes, but I do want to post something more, my RAM speeds etc from CPU-Z, I'm wondering if they are what they should be set to, and if there's anything else in the BIOS I should check? I had a shop build the machine and I think they tested with a live cd, and everything was just set to default.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
well mate if the memtest I linked only runs for 4 passes then something is quite wrong because it runs in a non Windows environment and the number of passes as far as I ma aware cannot be set I have seen some that overnight have gone for 15 or more.

Me I would be trying some different memory if you have some spare sticks.

In the BIOS I would leave set to default I don't think mucking around with the timings is going to do anything because if it is not working properly then why should changing the timings make any difference.

By the way if I haven't asked before are the sticks the same brand and the same timings ??
 

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Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
well mate if the memtest I linked only runs for 4 passes then something is quite wrong because it runs in a non Windows environment and the number of passes as far as I ma aware cannot be set I have seen some that overnight have gone for 15 or more.

Me I would be trying some different memory if you have some spare sticks.

In the BIOS I would leave set to default I don't think mucking around with the timings is going to do anything because if it is not working properly then why should changing the timings make any difference.

By the way if I haven't asked before are the sticks the same brand and the same timings ??

I THINK I'm using Memtest86 and not Memtest86+, I am using it through USB booting on startup and I had previously downloaded it (I think it was v7?) so I just ran the one I had, it says "0/4 passes complete", when it gets to 4 it says no errors and stops. I'll try the + version tonight, they are the same brand (2x4GB DDR4 Corsair Vengeance LPX) and I'm not sure how to check the timings, how can I do that? Would it not be like that by default?

Thanks for the reply.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
No Chase mate you have to use the memtest I linked RAM - Test with Memtest86+ the version is 5.01 I think now. The other I (and other members )would not even consider.

The timings mate should be printed on the side of the sticks see pic if there are no timings printed on the sticks you have try PART B: of this and other pic see pic
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.
 

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Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
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Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
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ADSL2+
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One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
http://i.imgur.com/ILh8tbf.png Thats a pic of one of my sticks, both appear to be the same, but I'm not sure how to interpret this information in line with CPU-Z. Does it look like how it should be? I want to upgrade to 16GB anyway and I can return these sticks, I'm now wondering if I should buy two more of the same branded RAM sticks or get a new RAM stick set up. Hmm.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
OK Chase mate of course the choice is yours and if those timings are for the sticks you have then there should be no mismatch.
If you are upping the ante for gaming then well 16GB would be plenty but even 8GB should be enough except for extreme gaming.
If you want and have the time I would run the memtest or you can go ahead and get the extra RAM - a tip though and that is buy the sticks in a same brand matched set - that is because they will have have come off the same production batch and more likely to be evenly matched.

I see from your specs your board is a four slot one and that means four channels (please say if I am preaching to the converted). Plus it says that you can use DDR4 memory too and if that is what you have in (from those timings it looks like it) then I would definitely go a memtest because it would not be that old.

If I were going to replace the RAM I would personally get a 4x4GB set because then you are utilising all the RAM channels (slots). You can go 2 x 8GB but then you will only be using two channels. But again please say if you are aware of this already.

If you want more info on what would suit your board ythe best then visit this site Welcome to the G.SKILL TECH FORUM join up and then post a thread and Tradesman will guide you he is really great when it comes to memory for dedicated boards / systems. Personally I like G-Skill RAM anyway.

Now the Asus support site for your board should have a recommended memory listing but I cannot find it or I would link it.

Just out of interest just what is the sticks brand and model?? - it should tell you that in HW Info.
 

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Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
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Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
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Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
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Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
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Toshiba 120GB EVO
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Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
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One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
This is my memory: http://i.imgur.com/xwZrIgU.png I will run the test tonight and reply back in the morning with the results, I don't expect it to be the RAM because it's a new machine but it's still worth a shot. I honestly think its to do with the virus/trojan I had a while back, ever since then I've been getting random BSODs so IDK if it's probably worth saving some data and just reinstalling, but yeah guess we'll see in the morning.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Sorry late reply Chase mate having real issues with my walk about internet connection.

Ok well it just possibly be the RAM has gone bad ? power surge or just a poorly made stick etc etc the test mate yes go ahead cannot lose anything and remember 8 passes minimum.
Just for an example you could drive a car off the showroom floor and the transmission lets go through some tiny part being bad or left out etc it is just one of those little irritants in life.

Now if you want you can also run this for malware and because it runs in a non Windows environment is not affected by the OS and it will scan everything.

Now I cannot link it because of my net connection - pretty bad tonight So just Google Kaspersky Rescue Disk 10 and it will give you a download link. You need to download it and make a bootable disk from the download. You just then power up and insert the disk or stick if you prefer those I don't - I like the disk and it will boot and you just follow the instructions that come up on your screen and it is free.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
I haven't tried the memtest86+ yet because last night it wasn't letting me boot via USB, this morning I've made sure it's going to work via my CD drive though. I've heard from different places it's best to test 1 stick of RAM at a time rather than having both in there at the same time, does that make a difference? Because if I have to do it individually it's going to take me two nights instead of one.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Well you can do it either way the only difference is that doing it altogether will take longer obviously because there is more RAM set in place so I guess theoretically doing one at a time would be quicker so instead of taking overnight for two sticks then it could be done in four hours but then you have a another four hours with the second stick so in reality you gain nothing, and even if stick #1 shows errors you will still need to test stick #2 for errors either way you need to check both sticks.
So my reasoning is test both and if there are errors come up fairly quickly then it is then a matter of testing each stick separately and with a bit of luck you may find the bad stick at the first attempt, and if the second stick does the same then you have twp bad ones or if good then you only have to replace one bad one.

Just one thing though as unlikely as it is you could get errors on a stick but it may not be the stick at fault it can be the slot as well - a mobo problem but not really that likely. In that instance you would have to try another slot say if you were using slot #1 for the testing.

Personally I would keep it all in and just watch for errors - the test can be stopped if errors come up before 8 passes and then you have to test each stick on it's own. Now if you have to do that and there have been errors then when you test the sticks in say slot #1 and no errors come up then you will have to test the sticks again in slot #2 (and so on) in case it is a slot problem but like I said that it would be a slot is unlikely but possible.

The other thing I would mention is that I do not like booting from the USB (stick) method I much prefer a CD in the optical drive.

Look as your system is really quite quick and the components new the testing should go reasonably quickly.
 

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CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Alright I'll let it run tonight with both sticks in and see how I go. Hopefully all goes well, will report back in the morning with the results, thanks heaps for your assistance.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Ok Chase mate just make sure you have the sticks in the designated slots as per the board set up instructions.

ie most boards start with slot (channel) #1 (closest to the CPU) as the first slot to be used then slot #3 as the second one but my Asus board on this machine is #2 and #4 slots as the first to use. I am not real sure why they specify that but I guess for good reasons.

Look most times if there are going to be errors they usually in my experience come up well before pass 8 so you might not have to wait till morning. Sorry to even mention this but in a way I hope it is a RAM error issue and will be easy fixed - because otherwise we have to go look somewhere else.

I shall wait on tenterhooks until you get that done.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Ok I let it run overnight, came back this morning with 8 passes and no errors, left it for a bit more and finally ended it at about 9.5 passes with no errors. The memory is in the correct slot in relation to the motherboard manual. I don't think it's the memory however the BSODs are happening less frequently it seems.. Although it is TOTALLY random and I can't reproduce it even if I wanted so I'm not 100% sure. I'm going to try and stress my computer into another crash and post the minidump if it happens again.

The other thing I'm having issues with is that whenever I turn my computer on an electrical buzz or like, when you turn an amplifier on and it has that feedback for a second at the start when you plug an AUX etc in, that sort of sound pops out of my headphones. If I turn the volume down the noise decreases but I've never experienced something like this before and want to make sure it's not some sort of electrical surge going on or something, how could I find that out?

Once again thanks for your replies :)
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
I'm unfortunately back again, but this time with another different BSOD.

Things have been going quite well actually, no system interruptions over the last few days and the only thing I've changed is my RAM sticks in BIOS from the default to the actual values of what it should be, even though the default values were the same.

Now I'm getting another BSOD (DRIVER_POWER_STATE_FAILURE) but it hasn't happened during use, only when I've gone to turn the computer off. I'll upload the minidump file, but I'm also wondering why it says that the driver causing it is the kernel? thanks once again.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
Hmm goes on and on eh now this
Code:
Probably caused by : [COLOR="Red"]VX1000.sys[/COLOR] ( VX1000+1a4cc )[/CODE
I have not coem across before but from the listings this pops out at me Microsoft LifeCam VX1000driver

Now I have no idea right now but will look )Google) for what it is - in the meantime there is this https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/d/lifecam-vx-1000

Now this 
[QUOTE]The other thing I'm having issues with is that whenever I turn my computer on an electrical buzz or like,[/QUOTE] sounds awfully like what is known as an earth loop in a nutshell the frequency of your mains supply is being picked up in a loop of connected devices.
For example if one has a microphone plugged into another device that is plugged into a different source /point and the power to the computer is connected at another point  and it's earthing screen sets up a virtual loop between the two plug in points  and  between them they cause a humming sound in the background and the only way I know is to prevent this or at least keep it to a minimum is to have the two devices plugged in at the same mains power point or detach one of the earth connections so that the loop does not form. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) 

On the other hand the good news is the RAM is ok;)
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Hmm goes on and on eh now this
Code:
Probably caused by : [COLOR="Red"]VX1000.sys[/COLOR] ( VX1000+1a4cc )[/CODE
I have not coem across before but from the listings this pops out at me Microsoft LifeCam VX1000driver

Now I have no idea right now but will look )Google) for what it is - in the meantime there is this https://www.microsoft.com/accessories/en-us/d/lifecam-vx-1000

Now this 
[QUOTE]The other thing I'm having issues with is that whenever I turn my computer on an electrical buzz or like,[/QUOTE] sounds awfully like what is known as an earth loop in a nutshell the frequency of your mains supply is being picked up in a loop of connected devices.
For example if one has a microphone plugged into another device that is plugged into a different source /point and the power to the computer is connected at another point  and it's earthing screen sets up a virtual loop between the two plug in points  and  between them they cause a humming sound in the background and the only way I know is to prevent this or at least keep it to a minimum is to have the two devices plugged in at the same mains power point or detach one of the earth connections so that the loop does not form. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) 

On the other hand the good news is the RAM is ok;)[/QUOTE]

Ahhhhh the VX1000.sys driver is, as you've said, from a webcam driver. It's a very old webcam that I use every now and then. I actually stopped the services from starting but had to reactivate it to use it. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the latest drivers. Hopefully that fixes that problem.


The audio thing I'm not quite sure my configuration is the same as you're explaining. I've just got a Logitech G430 headset that comes with a usb crossover so I can plug the mic/headset into into the crossover, then the USB directly into my motherboard. I'm not 100% sure by what you mean when you say detach the earth connections.

Thanks once again for all your help!

EDIT: Might seem like a dumb question since we've gotten this far already, but how are you reading the minidump file? I'd like to learn a bit more about these things for future reference.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 7600 Multiprocessor Free
CPU
Intel i5 6600
Motherboard
B150M-A
Memory
8.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
GTX 1060 6GB
In a nutshell Chase the ideal situation for earthing is that all devices are earthed at the same power point. For example if the computer was plugged into a supply in the east wall of the room and the sound system plugged into the west side then the earth connection is stretched out for want of a better term around the room and any interference like the mains ac "hum" will be picked up and included in the signal that is processed by the listening device because the lead from the listening device and the computer would be "creating " a loop via the earth or ground connection in booth devices. see very vague pic

To read those dump files you need to set up some software on your machine and this is the tutorial on how to do that WinDBG - Install and Configure for BSOD Analysis

Takes a bit of patience to set up first time but it is worth it

and you might need this too for the dumps analysis Driver Reference Table (DRT)
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
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