Solved new cpu BSOD, error 0xA, 0x50, 0xD1

[ration]

new cpu BSOD, error 0xA, 0x50, 0xD1, 0x101

hello, yesterday my "new" cpu arrived (amd athlon 64 x2 6000+) and since is started using it my pc keeps on blue screening. i checked the wattage of my psu and everything (applied new thermal paste), hardware-wise it should be ok (unless the cpu itself has been damaged, which is possible, since it's been used before).
i reistalled my os twice (win 7 x64 home premium) and i kept running into the same bsods even after the second reinstall. so far i've got 4 different types, but one of them i don't remember anymore, and i don't have the .dmp file of it either, because it happened before the second time i reinstalled the os.
here's the errors i got most often:
0x00000050 PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA caused by driver ntoskrnl.exe
0x0000000a IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL caused by driver ntoskrnl.exe
and this one i got only twice overall i believe (once so far after the last reinstall)
0x000000d1 DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL caused by driver nvlddmkm.sys
the first two errors i listed generally occur after using the pc for about 30 mins or so, although cpu usage looks just fine to me (didn't get to see it over 90% yet). cpu temp is generally fine as well (from 37 C idle goes up to 75+ C while gaming, from the limited test time i had).
also, i checked the ram. i switched them entirely with some old ones that i tested in the past using memtest i believe, and still getting the same errors.

update 1 :i started a driver verify, and since it hasn't yet crashed (2 hrs or so), so perhaps the bsod aren't related to how long my pc has been running.

update 2 :since update 1 (1 hr or so prior to this update) i encountered 3 other bsod
0x000000d1 DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL caused by driver nvlddmkm.sys (although not sure)
0x00000050 PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA caused by driver win32k.sys
0x00000101 "a clock interrupt was not received on a secondary processor within the allocate time interval" caused by driver ntoskrnl.exe (got 3 of those, one after turning the driver verifier off.)

the first two bsods of update 2 haven't generated dump files, but the third one did (i reuploaded the file).
also, i noticed that before the last two crashes an error message saying "Application error - chrome" (i was trying to edit this post during that time). the message was there for a split second, had a white window but no text in it, and was followed by blue screen.

Shortly after update 2 i stopped the driver verifier.

View attachment 393135

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hello and welcome ration mate your system specs are very sketchy so please do this System Info - See Your System Specs

Now the nvlddmkm.sys dump error is usually because you need to update the graphics driver for your card
Drivers | GeForce the other dump is very common and I usually find it hard to track down what is going on with it because it could be one of many things.

I have to say that to game heavily as you imply you do 3GB RAM is a very small amount of memory to have on board. I would at least try increasing it by adding another 2GB RAM stick instead of having the 1GB stick I suspect you have. If you do that I would make sure you get a stick that closely mathches the timing etc of the original 2GB stick.
If you go down that path use PART B: of this
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.
Plus it is very good for seeing just what you have in the machine and in great detail.

 

[ration]

first of all, thanks for the quick reply, i didn't think i'd get an answer on such a long post so quickly.
secondly, i'm sorry for the lousy system specs, i didn't actually think someone'd check them (i know, i should have expected it, since it's hardware related).

I have to say that to game heavily as you imply you do 3GB RAM is a very small amount of memory to have on board.

what can i say, i've got a low budget and a lot of patience.

You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic.

i've somehow failed to find the thing you're referring to(sorry,i did try.), but instead i got two screenshots of the menu you probably wanted me to be in, and the values of the voltage which i got from my bios menu:
CPU 1.352
3.3V 3.360
5.0V 5.087
12.0V 11.880
5VSB 5.003
(seeing as how they are within the parameters you gave me, this should mean that my psu is just fine for this setup?)
i would also like to consider that there's a chance my cooler is the problem. from what i've discovered, it seems to me that at least 0x50 and 0xA happen also when my temp is higher than 60 C, i didn't get the chance to check the temperature before the other errors (since i literally have to watch the value since it can't be stored when bsod occurs)

update: i checked the graphics driver, which i knew i had the last version of, since yday i reinstalled my os, but it turns out they released another version today. i updated my driver, then restarted my pc and so on, tested it and it seems it's still giving me bluescreens(0x50). however, during this, i was closely watching my temperature, it seems that this one also happened at +60C (70C to be specific).

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok mate now the 12v rail volts from the PSU is or looks to be falling - worth keeping an eye on that because the PSU is often very underrated as a cause for problems.

The 0x50 error looks to me to be memory related - according to this Bug Check 0x50: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA - Windows 10 hardware dev and if it were me I would be running this - it i the only memtest we recommend RAM - Test with Memtest86+ Just make sure you run it for at least 8 passes any less and you may as well not bother. It does take quite a while to run - not so much with just 3GB RAM and if errors come up before the 8 passes you can stop the test and then it is a matter of testing each stick on it's own to find the problem - sorry but that means replacement - there is no cure. See pic for what you will see if there are errors and as a by the by the etst a lot of people ru it after the days use and then overnight but yours shouldn't take that long

Lets do that first and at least it rules it out if all clear and I know the budget is no t much but you reallly would benefit from the extra RAM

 

[ration]

Ok mate now the 12v rail volts from the PSU is or looks to be falling - worth keeping an eye on that because the PSU is often very underrated as a cause for problems.

does this mean i have to get a better/more powerful psu?(i thought i was within the limits you posted earlier)

i'll run the memtest tomorrow and post the results.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No the PSU is ok just keep half an eye on it if things really go wrong.

Now in the event you have to buy one you can use this OuterVision Power Supply Calculator all you need to do is fill in the components list and hit the blue calculate button and it will give you an estimated power wattage for the PSU and it does err on the side of caution that is to say that if for example the calculate comes up with a recommended wattage of 350W see pic of one that I have quickly and randomly filled in to see what the end readout is like.

 

[ration]

alright, nearly 11 hours later, after 8 passes, i got no error (see the pic)

now i'm pretty confident it's because of the cpu overheating, but again, i might be wrong.

No the PSU is ok just keep half an eye on it if things really go wrong.

regarding this, i'd like to know if i replaced, say, my cpu fan with a better one that consumes 30w more, does this mean the value of the 12V voltage would go even lower?

right now i'm thinking replacing the cpu fan should do it, but i'd like to know if it also means replacing the psu.

also, regarding the site you linked me to, for calculating the wattage, i've already used it, and it says i'm still about 90w below what my current psu gives. (363w consumption according to the site, vs 450w which my psu can give).

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No mate the fan would have no effect on the voltage only the amount of extra current required and usually fans are not that great a drain - amps wise. So there would be no need to change the PSU and if the figures are correct then that is putting out enough amps (watts) to run everything.

See everything in an electrical circuit as you probably know is related to each value as dictated by the Ohms law. Ohm's law - Wikipedia > see circuit analysis.

Simply put in each three sided equation (I think of them as triangles) any one value is calculated by either multiplying or dividing a set value by the other two
example: Current is calculated as current (I) = volts (V) divided by x resistance (R)

Now power not clearly stated in Wiki is watts (P) being calculated as volts (V) multiplied by current (I)
So if you have a 12 volts rail and a current of 25 amps you multiply the volts by the current to give you the power in that circuit = 300Watts (P)

So an increase in say 0.01 amps for a 5 volts fan is negligible (0.05 watts)

Now for me 90 watts "overkill" is not really that much I like to run with around 150 watts to spare but 90 is ok .

 

[ration]

alright, thanks for your reply and help so far, i'll get the fan in a few days and let you know how it went.

and btw, just saying, i've graduated from an engineering highschool, but i've always been bad at applying those things to practical situations.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Oops preaching to the converted then I just learnt my stuff over the years from an interest in electronics - especially my fascination with vacuum tubes (valves as we called them)

I am a registered nurse by profession and glad of my interests because most of the stuff we use for documentation and measuring etc etc has gone electronic

Well as for the fan well don't expect too much out of it because it can only cool as much as the heatsink can transfer. I think if the budget stretched a little bit then a more efficient cooler would be the go. I myself like liquid cooling rather than the air coolers which can be very large and cumbersome to move around but as I said it depends on your budget. I am assuming you are using a stock cooler?? - generally regarded as not that efficient at all for anything but low level use of your machine.

 

[ration]

I am assuming you are using a stock cooler?? - generally regarded as not that efficient at all for anything but low level use of your machine.

an 11 years old one, at that. changing it to one with 55 cfm, so i do actually expect at least to not go above 62C (which is the max tpd for my cpu) during gaming, but as you said, low budget, so i might still not be able to solve things this way.
i did already buy it, now i'm waiting for it to arrive, although it's only air cooling it at least has heatpipes.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Having a background in engineering I will take it as granted you will know about the thermal dynamics (conductivity for want of a better term) of metals so it is a relief to know you are heading towards a solution to that issue.

That is good the cooler has heat pipes at least it isn't one of those solid block stock ones that the fan is attached directly to the top of the fins the aluminium they are manufactured from is far less efficient than copper however a lot cheaper too The other problem with that type to is that I have always thought it a very cheap and nasty way of getting rid of the heat being transferred to the block then the fins because it (the heat to some extent ) is blown straight back the heatsink - a very flawed and a no brain solution design in my tiny mind .

The one I am assuming you have will be more efficient especially if it is one of those that have a copper heat sink or the bare copper pipes where they are in contact with the CPU heat spreader the pipes are then inserted through the fins and so a larger cooling surface area via the fins, however it is a pity the fins are aluminium as general rule. Can I ask what one you bought please and I hope it is not one of those that like the stock variety blows the heat back at the heatsink? (see pics) It would be good to check it out.

The air cooler in my Sandy Bridge I have set up to blow the air back towards the back panel fan and I like to use 140mm fans where I can but like I said they are soemtime very large and mine I have to remove to get at the RAM sticks because the cooler overhangs those sticks.

Now when and if the budget allows for a decent set up like your I would suggest more RAM and a liquid cooler - in that order

 

[ration]

Can I ask what one you bought please and I hope it is not one of those that like the stock variety blows the heat back at the heatsink?

sure, Katana 3 CPU Cooler: CPU Kuhler, Lufter, Luftersteuerung, PC Netzteile von Scythe is what i ordered earlier today.

Now when and if the budget allows for a decent set up like your I would suggest more RAM and a liquid cooler - in that order

thing is, it's really out of my budget to get a liquid cooler. actually, this one i got was a bit out of my price range, so i had to stretch a bit to get it.
also, not entirely sure if i'll get to play games that require more ram, with my current specs.so what i'm thinking is cpu>ram>gpu. (i also only have 2 ram slots)

 

[Golden]

Since all the problems started with a change in CPU, it makes sense to check that first. The only way to test that is by stress testing the CPU. Follow this guide:

CPU - Stress Test Using IntelBurnTest

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No ration mate that looks ok to me a stack of heat pipes and a decent sized heat sink so it should be fine.

Just make sure the compound is applied properly and you will find a lot of different methods suggested from the other memebrs on how to do that but personally I like to use these products - one to clean prepare the surfaces and the compound itself. Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean and
Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5

My method is to prepare the surfaces first then apply the compound to each surface using my index finger inside a vinyl glove and smooth the compound over each surface very thinly then apply a rice grain sized piece of compound on the top of the CPU and then attach / fix down the cooler. This makes the compound very evenly spread on each surface first and the the tiny piece will "bleed out" though the abutted surfaces. One thing to remember is not to put too much on or you will end up with a real mess.

You may get others who suggest just cleaning with alcohol or whatever but I am firm believer in these products - it is a bit more expensive than than other compounds but it is good.

The RAM slots well you can't do much about that and it depends on how much RAM that can be supported on that board. To me after looking at this 4GB is the max anyway. MS-7309 | Msi MS-7309 S. AM2 DDR2 PCIe Motherboard and you will find that sometimes DDR@ RAM is quite expensive and to find.

 

[ration]

Since all the problems started with a change in CPU, it makes sense to check that first.

yeah, not long after starting this thread i contacted the person that sold it to me and they said it has been tested twice. as far as my own testing goes, as i previously said, it seems that at least two of the bsod occur when i get over max tdp of the cpu. love your pic btw.

No ration mate that looks ok to me a stack of heat pipes and a decent sized heat sink so it should be fine.

Just make sure the compound is applied properly and you will find a lot of different methods suggested from the other memebrs

thanks for letting me know, i do hope it'll work. as for the compound i've already decided on which method to use. it's a bit similar to yours, only that i'll apply the compound only in the middle, and let the weight of the heatsink do the job.
also when i cleaned it the last time i didn't use the proper type of alcohol (used ethanol), but it seemed to work pretty well.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok mate you do it how you are comfortable with I only use the products I linked and my method because I know the surfaces are absolutely clean and free of contaminants and that every square millimetre of those surfaces is covered - especially the CPU surface

You mentioned ethanol in your post it is a good cleaner but like methanol is a water based solvent and with old compounds particularly it sometimes may not remove it that well or at all - which again I linked the Arctic solvent and surface preparation. There are other removers ie citrus oil for example which will dissolve the compound but needs removing itself.

Anyway good luck lets hope this may go some way into solving the issues

 

[ration]

alright, after installing the new fan it seems i get no more bsods.
one weird thing tho, was that the first time i turned my pc on after replacing the fan right after the 'welcome' screen loaded i got a 0x101 bsod, which i talked about before. it was caused by the same driver too, but after that i stress tested both the cpu and gpu and it seems everything is fine.
it seems that the highest the cpu temp went up is 50C, so if any other bsod occur it must be the cpu, in case that might happen i won't close this thread until friday.
thanks for all the help so far, btw.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok well this sort of sums up in a sense what the issue is and in part what you have done.

The other members listed here are all senior and well respected for their knowledge even though this is an old thread. STOP 0x101: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT troubleshtg

Well lets hope Friday comes and goes without incident. Keep us posted

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Just an afterthought ration - have had net connection problems - you could follow Golden's suggestion too an stress test that CPU.