SSD / HDD : Optimize for Windows Reinstallation

How to Optimize an SSD / HDD When You're Ready to Reinstall the Operating System

This will show how to remove / over-write all existing data from a Solid State Drive (SSD) or a Hard Disk Drive (HDD), it'll work for both, then how to create a partition and then format that partition before install begins so you have a clean drive to start the installation with.

   Note

Before you start this, in the Windows start menu search box type diskmgmt.msc right click the entry and click "Run as Administrator" if you get a User Account Control (UAC) prompt enter your user credentials and click Yes; make very sure you know the correct drive number of the drive you want to do this to if you have more than one SSD / HDD in the machine, you don't want to do the wrong one.
   Warning

Do not do this to any SSD or HDD that has data on it you don't want to lose, the first thing this does is to mark the drive as "Unallocated Space" and then writes zeroes ( 0's ) to the entire drive, it's known as a "Secure Erase" and it will make data un-recoverable, it cannot be done to just a single partition on a drive, it will do the whole drive.
You have been warned!
   Information

It may be a help to over-write the HDD Master Boot Record (MBR) before you start any other procedure using the diskpart clean command, rather than the clean all; it takes just seconds to complete so you will have "unallocated" space to use either the Windows installer to create and format the partition(s) or use diskpart for that, however you choose.

Let's get started!



Step One

Boot To DISKPART


If need be, view this tutorial at the link below for an out-line of the process.
How to Boot to DISKPART at PC Startup

1) In the command window that opens type diskpart then hit the <enter> key then type list disk <enter> if you have more than one SSD / HDD in the machine it'll list them all.

Have a look here to view additional important information on this entire process.
click any image to enlarge
One_1.jpg
2) Now in the command window type select disk # (# = target disk number) then <enter>, you will get "Disk # is now the selected disk".
One_2.jpg
3) Now type clean <enter> you will get a blinking cursor telling you that clean all is working like in the second snip down, just relax and let it work.
One_3.1.jpg
One_3.2.jpg
4) When it finishes you'll get "DiskPart succeeded in cleaning the disk" in the command window.
One_4.1.jpg
To leave diskpart at any time and return to the Windows 7 installer type exit two (2) separate times and hit <enter> after each and you will be returned to the installer to continue the installation process.
One_4.2.jpg



Step Two

Create a Partition


1) Create a single partition of the entire HDD / SSD

Still in the same command window, to create a partition of the entire HDD / SSD, it is suggested if you are using one of the larger, 1 - 2TB HDDs that you use the outline in #2 below to create a single 100GB partition to do the installation to or #3 below if you would like to include the new Windows 7 System Reserved partition, as we're now seeing serious issues with some trying to install to such large partitions.

Do not format the created partition(s) with the installer if you create them using this process as the installer will delete all this info, the second snip shows how to select "where to install" during the installation process, click to highlight/select the "Windows 7" partition and click next.

Now skip down to #5 below to start the installation.
click any image to enlarge
Two_1.1.jpg
Two_1.2.jpg
2) Create a specific size partition

If you wanted to create a specific size partition, say 100GB you would add the size you want to create in MBs like in the command below.
create partition primary size=102400 <enter>
1024MB = 1GB - 1024x100 = 102400, you can use/create any size you like.

You can always extend the Windows partition to include the remaining unallocated space on the HDD / SSD or create additional Primary partitions or an Extended partition after the installation completes if you choose.

Do not format the created partition(s) with the installer if you create them using this process as the installer will delete all this info, the second snip shows how to select "where to install" during the installation process, click to highlight/select the "Windows 7" partition and click next.

Now skip down to #5 below to start the installation.
Two_2.1.jpg
Two_2.2.jpg
3) Create the System Reserved partition

If you should want to add the "System Reserved" partition back after the clean all, see this snip; of course you would have to select to install Windows 7 to the partition labeled as "Windows 7" during the install and do not format either partition with the installer.

The reason for suggesting to create the System Reserved at 200MB instead of the new default of 100MB is an attempt to curb some of the issues we're now seeing with the partition being too small when dual/multi booting and it also being needed for use with the Windows 7 Backup and Restore and BitLocker programs.

You can always extend the Windows partition to include the remaining unallocated space on the HDD / SSD or create additional Primary partitions or an Extended partition after the installation completes if you choose.

The second snip shows how to select "where to install" during the installation process, click to highlight/select the "Windows 7" partition and click next.
Two_3.1.jpg
Two_3.2.jpg
4) See this tutorial for the "align" argument

Align a Solid State Drive for Windows Installation
Two_4.1.jpg
5) That's it, you're now done with the command window, type exit <enter> to leave diskpart and exit <enter> again to close the command window; if you're using a Windows 7 full installer it will go to the "Select Language" screen to continue the installation process as usual.

For those using a created repair CD or a Vista installer type exit <enter> to leave diskpart and exit <enter> again to close the command window; at the System Recovery Options dialog box that's still open click Restart to finish the process.
Restart.jpg
Enjoy! :)



 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi and welcome to SevenForums,
You might resize the installs partition after the install and use this instead,
Diskpart
List disk
Select disk n (where n is the number that was given for your SSD in List disk)
Clean
Create partition primary align=1024
Format fs=ntfs quick
Active (assuming you want to install an OS)
Exit
 

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Hi, I followed the website and tried method 1 and 2. When I go to select the drive it still says the it can't install to drive because it can't create nor find a partition. Installing to an internal HHD, installing from a Windows CD.
 

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Hi, im going for a clean windows installation on my laptop , so if i do the clean all which takes hours to complete will it improve speed of my hard drive compared to clean ?
 

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You really only may want to use "clean all" if you're not keeping the PC to help make sure it's thoroughly wiped clean.
 

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Hi guys! The word 'Optimize' from the OP caught my attention so I gotta ask this:

1. Does an SSD or HDD run faster once all data on it have been Securely Deleted and then new data are written?

2. Is there any risk of more wear and tear to the drive when we run Secure Delete? I'm about to run in on an 2 HDDs and 1 SSD. There is more risk on the SSD ofc, but for a one time it should be ok. The SSD is SAMSUNG 850 PRO 256GB 2.5in SATA III 6.0GbsP (MZ-7KE256BW) with Total Bytes Written so far 8.7TB out of promised 150TB life-time from Samsung. The HDDs are 1. an external, 7-years-old, 1TB WD Elements USB 2.0 WDE1UBK10000E and an internal Toshiba MK1059GSMP 1TB 5400RPM 8MB Cache SATA II 3.0GbsP. I mean, ofc not Secure Deleting every day but in general would running secure delete put that much wear? For now I'm planning only a one time Secure Delete so I guess that's fine but better to ask.
 

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Hello soewhaty,

Q1) The physical speed of a drive will not be changed by this. It will just take longer to secure erase than it would to delete normally. You could TRIM a SSD or defrag a HDD as needed to help make it more efficient.

Q2) A drive does have a limited amount of reads and writes in its lifetime before failing. I wouldn't recommend to always secure erase all the time on a SSD, but doing so only as needed not often wouldn't be as bad. Usually you would only want to secure erase if you are selling, giving, or disposing of the drive, or occasionally wanting to make sure deleted items stay deleted. ;)
 

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As Brink has said mate depends great deal on your usage but most of the SSD' I have used since swapping over have warranties and wear usages of approx ten years - unless you do some outrageously foolish stuff with them. See this for some really interesting facts about hard drives in general.
Solid-state drive - Wikipedia this should allay some of your concerns.:)
 

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Thanks to both of you for the replies :) Yes, my SSD has 10 years of warranty and many TBW left ... as i said I've only written 8TB out of 150TB Samsung promise so np :) I'm not asking things in general about SSDs. More about 'Secure Deletion'.

q1) Indeed I do realize that the physical speed won't change. What I was referring to was - wouldn't the drive work quicker or more efficient if there's less clutter? I say clutter cos I knot that simply deleting or shift+deleting files does not really delete them forever, it generally only means the data blocks involved are flagged as not in use. That's where I was thinking that a secure delete would wipe everything clean and thus the drive would run faster, but perhaps I was mistaken.

As to trimming and defragging, yes HDD I do defrag, SSD's clearly never. But trimming the SSD is done by the OS (Windows does it by itself) as long as you don't disable it via CMD and do it with 3rd party tools like 'Solid State Doctor'.

q2) Agreed and 10x :)

q3) I think both with 'Solid State Doctor' and with 'Samsung Magician' one can perform a secure delete/wipe of the whole drive, but the point is - how to do it just before reinstalling OS. I guess the OP is the only way, no?
 

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q3) I think both with 'Solid State Doctor' and with 'Samsung Magician' one can perform a secure delete/wipe of the whole drive, but the point is - how to do it just before reinstalling OS. I guess the OP is the only way, no?

A tip be watchful of the Magician software a while back I had an issue when my USB ports dropped out and by a stroke of luck a canny member knew what it was - that Magician software. I uninstalled it and back came my ports. You can always reinstall it after an event like that
To be honest I personally do not use those add on softwares because a) that Magician for one is of not much use - well for me at least and b) I feel softwares like those can be handled using the Windows system;)
 

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q3) I think both with 'Solid State Doctor' and with 'Samsung Magician' one can perform a secure delete/wipe of the whole drive, but the point is - how to do it just before reinstalling OS. I guess the OP is the only way, no?
A tip be watchful of the Magician software a while back I had an issue when my USB ports dropped out and by a stroke of luck a canny member knew what it was - that Magician software. I uninstalled it and back came my ports. You can always reinstall it after an event like that
To be honest I personally do not use those add on softwares because a) that Magician for one is of not much use - well for me at least and b) I feel softwares like those can be handled using the Windows system;)

I completely agree with you. The only reason I have Magician on board is cos I use it, as well as a plethora of some 3rd party tools to check ssd speed. That's all.

And thanks for your tip! It's one to keep! :)

Anything on Q1) and is the OP the only way to do a secure erase prior to reinstalling OS?
 

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Hi,
I haven't had any issues with samsung magician :)
My Acer had usb issue well before magician came along seeing it's going on 7 year old mother board I'm surprised it works at all :p
 

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As I said, I do realize that the physical speed won't change. What I was referring to was - wouldn't the drive work quicker or more efficient when secure delete is performed cos there would be less clutter in the way? I say clutter cos I knot that simply deleting or shift+deleting files does not really delete them forever, it generally only means the data blocks involved are flagged as not in use. That's where I was thinking that a secure delete would wipe everything clean and thus the drive would run faster. Right or wrong?
 

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Hi,
The only items that make a drive work faster is what rpm it's rated to run at 5400 rpm/ 7200 rpm..
All secure delete does is it does not send to the recycle bin to restore anything
Space is just marked as available sooner or later and the space is over written.
 

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Sure ... RPMs have nothing to do with SSD's though, but I got your point. 10x for your input!
 

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Hi,
Correct it was an example :)
They do however have spec's for read and write
Max Sequential ReadUp to 550 MBpsMax Sequential WriteUp to 520 MBps4KB Random ReadUp to 100,000 IOPS4KB Random WriteUp to 90,000 IOPS
After that the firmware kicks in to do all of the work for making the space rewritable
Other hardware cpu.... for the real speed :)
 

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2-Samsung M.2 Evo & Evo Plus
2-Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD's/ 3-2.5 W.D. Black 1tb-&3-1tb/3-3.5 WD Black 1tb hdd's
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EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-P2 2nd 1200-P2
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2-Corsair Obsidian Series 450D Black ATX Mid Tower
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Custom water loops
Keyboard
Logitech G710+/ 2nd Logitech G910
Mouse
2-RedDragon M901 Perdition 16400 dpi Gaming mouse = wired
Internet Speed
Comcast Ping 19ms 89.31mbps download speed 6.12mbps upload
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Pro/ Superantispyware Pro
Browser
FireFox & Pale moon
Other Info
2nd ASUS X299 Apex/Intel i9-9940x with Custom water loop/7H-Prem-x64/Corsair 450D case/Ram Trident-z 3600C16 4x8gb / Samsung970Evo plus 500gb SSD/Dual ssd EZ swap evo/PSU EVGA SuperNova 1200w-P2 80+Platinum/GPU Titan Xp /8-ML-140 on push-pull on 2-280GTX rads
Hi,
Corect it was an example :)
They do however have spec's for read and write
Max Sequential ReadUp to 550 MBpsMax Sequential WriteUp to 520 MBps4KB Random ReadUp to 100,000 IOPS4KB Random WriteUp to 90,000 IOPS
After that the firmware kicks in to do all of the work for making the space rewritable
Other hardware cpu.... for the real speed :)

Yes, yes, yes. I'm well aware of that. Let's not get into that, cos it's off topic and off of what I wanted to ask. All I wanted to know was sth about Secure Delete and now I know it. Thank you all for having contributed to my query! You guys are awesome and it's so nice to have you around for help.
 

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Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP
OS
Win 7 x64
Hi,
Glad we could be of help :)
First thing that should be done is update the ssd's firmware and samsung magician makes that a simple task :)
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom assembled by me :}
OS
Win-7-Pro64bit 7-H-Prem-64bit
CPU
i7-5930K 2nd i9-9940x both water blocked VRM's too
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH X99 2nd ASUS x299 Apex
Memory
Trident-z 3200C14 2nd Trident-z 3600C16
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1080ti ftw3 2nd Titan Xp both water blocked
Sound Card
Built-in Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
2-Samsung M.2 Evo & Evo Plus
2-Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD's/ 3-2.5 W.D. Black 1tb-&3-1tb/3-3.5 WD Black 1tb hdd's
PSU
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-P2 2nd 1200-P2
Case
2-Corsair Obsidian Series 450D Black ATX Mid Tower
Cooling
Custom water loops
Keyboard
Logitech G710+/ 2nd Logitech G910
Mouse
2-RedDragon M901 Perdition 16400 dpi Gaming mouse = wired
Internet Speed
Comcast Ping 19ms 89.31mbps download speed 6.12mbps upload
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Pro/ Superantispyware Pro
Browser
FireFox & Pale moon
Other Info
2nd ASUS X299 Apex/Intel i9-9940x with Custom water loop/7H-Prem-x64/Corsair 450D case/Ram Trident-z 3600C16 4x8gb / Samsung970Evo plus 500gb SSD/Dual ssd EZ swap evo/PSU EVGA SuperNova 1200w-P2 80+Platinum/GPU Titan Xp /8-ML-140 on push-pull on 2-280GTX rads
Hi,
Glad we could be of help :)
First thing that should be done is update the ssd's firmware and samsung magician makes that a simple task :)

Ermmm ... I gotta STRONGLY object here. Remember what happened with nearly all the 850 Pros about 2 years ago when Samsung pushed a new firmware that could either be implemented via the Magician desktop utility or (I think) in the pre-boot environment? Well, that was a HUGE debacle and millions of ppl got their 850 Pros bricked completely after which Samsung asked to have them shipped back and maybe refunded and bla bla bla ... Nearly as bad as their tremendous FAIL with their Galaxy note 7. Actually just as bad, but it never got that much press. They concealed it well. So Samsung and especially their non-magical Magician software are definitely NOT to be trusted! Updating firmware ... mmm prolly a good idea but do it the right way, not via some dubious desktop utility.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP
OS
Win 7 x64
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