Windows Startup Repair query

For an SSD Samsung and Intel tend to be the 'best' brands, and for a standard HDD I'd recommend Western Digital (Caviar Black for performance such as gaming or running programs, Caviar Green for storage).
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
FWIW, I have a cheaper crucial SSD and it works perfect. Don't get too caught up in name brands. You basically have the same likelihood of getting a bad HD/SSD no matter what company you choose.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Dual Boot: Windows 8.1 & Server 2012r2 VMs: Kali Linux, Backbox, Matriux, Windows 8.1
CPU
A10 7700 Kavari SteamRoller
Motherboard
ASUS A88XM-PLUS (FM2+ )
Memory
8GB DDR3 SDRAM PC3-8500
Graphics Card(s)
1024MB ATI AMD Radeon R7 Graphics
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung
Hard Drives
SSD Crucial 120gb
WD VelociRaptor 1tb
PSU
Rosewill Gaming 650w
Case
Rosewill Galaxy 2
Internet Speed
55/12
Antivirus
Malwarebytes, MSE, SAS
Browser
FireFox, Chrome
Oh I'm not saying the others are bad, far from it. My backup rig has a Toshiba SSD and there's nothing wrong with it. But Intel and Samsung are generally recognised as better makes when it comes to SSDs, hence the higher prices.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
Oh I'm not saying the others are bad, far from it. My backup rig has a Toshiba SSD and there's nothing wrong with it. But Intel and Samsung are generally recognised as better makes when it comes to SSDs, hence the higher prices.
Oh sorry, I should have quoted the OP, I was just giving him other options, not a rebuttal to your post in any way. :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Dual Boot: Windows 8.1 & Server 2012r2 VMs: Kali Linux, Backbox, Matriux, Windows 8.1
CPU
A10 7700 Kavari SteamRoller
Motherboard
ASUS A88XM-PLUS (FM2+ )
Memory
8GB DDR3 SDRAM PC3-8500
Graphics Card(s)
1024MB ATI AMD Radeon R7 Graphics
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung
Hard Drives
SSD Crucial 120gb
WD VelociRaptor 1tb
PSU
Rosewill Gaming 650w
Case
Rosewill Galaxy 2
Internet Speed
55/12
Antivirus
Malwarebytes, MSE, SAS
Browser
FireFox, Chrome
Thanks for the replies, really appreciate it.

Is it OK to ask one more question?!

I'm presuming the hard drive was the main culprit, but the drive works fine when plugged into another laptop as I said, so that seems weird to me, but I still won't go back to using it again. So would I be best bringing the laptop to a repair shop for a checkup just to see there are no other hardware issues before I go installing 2 brand new hard drives and a fresh copy of Windows?

Just that I don't want to get it all setup for something else to happen, for example the motherboard or ram may have issues? Is there a way to determine if these and the laptop in general is healthy without having to bring it to a shop? Sorry I know these are total 'newbie' questions guys.

Cheers,

Paul
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
There's no need pay for diagnostics on your hardware. If you've ascertained that your HDD is bad and are going to replace it you can test the RAM yourself.

Download and run MemTest86+ to test your RAM.

   Note
MemTest86+ Logo.jpg

Run MemTest86+ for at least 8 passes. Ideally set it off before you go to bed and leave it overnight, we're looking for zero errors here. A single error will show something's going bad with your RAM.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105647-ram-test-memtest86.html


If there are any more tests you would like to carry out just let us know.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
There's no need pay for diagnostics on your hardware. If you've ascertained that your HDD is bad and are going to replace it you can test the RAM yourself.

Download and run MemTest86+ to test your RAM.

   Note
View attachment 337613

Run MemTest86+ for at least 8 passes. Ideally set it off before you go to bed and leave it overnight, we're looking for zero errors here. A single error will show something's going bad with your RAM.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105647-ram-test-memtest86.html


If there are any more tests you would like to carry out just let us know.

Thanks Boozad, I don't need an operating system installed to do that do I?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
No, MemTest86+ will run independently from whichever bootable media you create. Just make sure your run it for at least 8 passes which will take a fair amount of time.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
Install the OS to the SSD, the move the User folders to the HDD: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/18629-user-folders-change-default-location.html, alternatively create new User folders on the HDD which you then rightclick to add to the related http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/585-library-include-folder.html setting the data drive one as the default: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/595-library-set-save-folder.html.

If you stick with these steps, tools and methods for the http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/219487-clean-reinstall-factory-oem-windows-7-a.html#post1839164 then you'll have a perfect install for as long as you do.

Hi Greg, just about the factory OEM Windows 7 you mention - is that if I don't have a Windows 7 disc? The laptop came with Windows 7 home edition installed as far as I can remember, but I went and bought the Ultimate version shortly after.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
No, MemTest86+ will run independently from whichever bootable media you create. Just make sure your run it for at least 8 passes which will take a fair amount of time.

OK cheers!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
I would reinstall the licensed version on the PC so it's $100+ is not wasted, unless you actually need the few extra expensive features in Ultimate since it is the exact same OS otherwise. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/14422-compare-windows-7-editions.html

You can use Ultimate somewhere else or give/sell it to someone who actually needs those features.

I told you how to test the hard drive to confirm it is bad, so what was the result of the manufacturer's http://www.carrona.org/hddiag.html?HD Diagnostic ?

Let us know how the RAM test goes, for 6 passes min or overnight.
 
I would reinstall the licensed version on the PC so it's $100+ is not wasted, unless you actually need the few extra expensive features in Ultimate since it is the exact same OS otherwise. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/14422-compare-windows-7-editions.html

You can use Ultimate somewhere else or give/sell it to someone who actually needs those features.

I told you how to test the hard drive to confirm it is bad, so what was the result of the manufacturer's http://www.carrona.org/hddiag.html?HD Diagnostic ?

Let us know how the RAM test goes, for 6 passes min or overnight.

I bought ultimate because I had to wipe the laptop before and didn't get a Windows 7 install disc with the laptop.

The hard drive diagnostic, I posted a screen from that a few pages back did you see it? There is no way I am going to chance using the hard drive again though, as it's not the firt time it gave me trouble. So I'm going to buy 2 new ones, an SSD and a standard one.

I was wanting to get this one - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-250...id=1413989941&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+ssd+840

But I read somewhere that the motherboard has to support SATA 3? Is this true? I'm not too sure what kind of motherboard is in this laptop I will look into it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
Run Speccy to get your motherboard information. Click on the motherboard tab on the left to find the make/model of your motherboard then a Google search on its specs will let you know if it has SATA3.

Capture.JPG
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
Run Speccy to get your motherboard information. Click on the motherboard tab on the left to find the make/model of your motherboard then a Google search on its specs will let you know if it has SATA3.

View attachment 337761

Thanks Boozad, I will check that when I get my laptop back.

I just read thhat this 500BG one - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-500...id=1413993446&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+ssd+840

is: Interface: 2.5" SATA III (6Gb/s) compatible with SATA II (3Gb/s) so that's good to know. I have a feeling my one is SATA II
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
You said that the HD worked when you plugged it into another PC. I see that you ran the Dell Diagnostics preboot assessment. But I can't find where you ran the WD Data Lifeguard bootable flash stick and Windows version to confirm this even though I suggested to repeatedly.

You did not need to buy an expensive Win7 Ultimate just because you didn't have a disk to reinstall the OS you already own for the life of the PC. It is provided in http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/219487-clean-reinstall-factory-oem-windows-7-a.html#post1839164. So I would reinstall the licensed version so it is not wasted, and use Ultimate elsewhere.
 
You said that the HD worked when you plugged it into another PC. I see that you ran the Dell Diagnostics preboot assessment. But I can't find where you ran the WD Data Lifeguard bootable flash stick and Windows version to confirm this even though I suggested to repeatedly.

You did not need to buy an expensive Win7 Ultimate just because you didn't have a disk to reinstall the OS you already own for the life of the PC. It is provided in http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/219487-clean-reinstall-factory-oem-windows-7-a.html#post1839164. So I would reinstall the licensed version so it is not wasted, and use Ultimate elsewhere.

It did work fine in the other laptop yeah. I didn't run the WD Data one. I don't have the laptop right now, it's down in my cousins.

I bought Windows 7 Ultimate with a staff discount, so wasn't actually expensive at all.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
Hello there,

I have got the new SSD and separate hard drive installed and up and running on my laptop now. It is running great. I have Windows on the SSD and nothing on the separate 1TB drive right now.

I want to change my user profile to the normal 1TB drive, not to be on the SSD as it currently is. I was wondering could someone here explain the main difference between the 2 options on this page that Greg pointed me to before - http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/18629-user-folders-change-default-location.html

I see in option one that I have to do some registry edits. But if option two would work for me, I'd rather do that one.

I will wait on word back from you guys before I go any further installing my programs.

Cheers,

Paul
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Precision Tower 7910 Workstation
OS
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Dual Xeon(R) CPU E5-2687W v3 @ 3.10GHz
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0215PR
Memory
32.00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA Quadro K4200
Sound Card
(1) NVIDIA High Definition Audio (2) High Definition Audio
Hard Drives
(1) SK hynix SC210 2.5 7MM 256GB ATA Device
(2) ATA WDC WD4003FZEX-0 SCSI Disk Device
Antivirus
Avast Free and Malwarebytes Free
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
BIOS: BIOS Date: 04/14/15 18:58:26 Ver: A07.00
Any options in Brink's tutorials will work for you. :thumbsup:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
I would use Option Two and only move the active User folders, i.e. the ones you have files in and use.
 
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