auto reboot when installing or uninstalling software

[writhziden]

Cold problems often indicate memory or voltage problems. Try removing your two 2 GB modules and leaving only the 4 GB modules installed. Is that something you would be comfortable doing to test?


As you add and remove hardware, follow these steps for ESD safety:

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[pintree3]

Yes, I have no problem adding or removing anything from my PC

 

[writhziden]

Alright, let us know how things go with the 8 GB of RAM instead of 12 GB.

 

[pintree3]

Removed the 4G ram as instructed and showed a black screen HD working but no extra beeps or anything as to what is sometimes heard if something is wrong with hardware--the computer would not even go to the DOS prompt. I then moved the RAM cards to where the 2X2G cards were and PC went to BIOS (or was it me?). From there I did nothing & clicked on save and boot. PC started fine. Did this solve the problem of the crash/self boot when in/uninstalling? No? I now placed my 2X2G or ram where the 4G sticks were and am back to 12G.

Update: I had totally forgotten about the following simply because my PC moved across the globe and stayed in storage for about 8 months before I started using it again.
History of MY PC.
When 1st bought my PC it had an ASUS Sonar sound card and 8G of RAM. Somehow the sound card didn't like my mother board and so I exchanged that for the xtra 4G of ram. Things seemed to work fine but then this same problem stated here started. I and a geek friend tried a few things and could not solve the problem. We then reinstalled Windows and the problem went away. BUT now I could not tell you that this will solve the problem because, a few weeks later (of computer time as opposed to real time which is now) with more software installed the computer began having this same problem.
This tells me that perhaps the culprit may well be the CPU heat. Also everything is packed like sardines in the PC case making me question if a bigger tower case should have been used. I purposely paid extra for the power supply to make sure there would not be any power problems and now I'm wondering if the motherboard could handle what it has. I also know that the 12G of RAM is the most that Win 7 64bit home could handle and wonder if this maximum is causing strain in any way.

 

[writhziden]

When was the last time you blew the dust out of the PC?

To remove dust, follow the subsequent general procedure. If you have a desktop bought from Dell, HP, Sony, Lenovo, etc. make sure removing the desktop casing will not void your warranty first. Call the company if you are still under warranty and ask if it is okay to remove the casing and blow dust out. The procedure described is fine for laptops; just make sure no stickers are on panels saying if you remove the panel it will void the warranty.

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Remove the casing for a desktop, or remove any screwed on panels and disc drives for laptops.
5. Blow out the dust inside by using a can of compressed air or a low pressure compressor. You will want to put the computer on a desk or table so you can maintain the can in an upright position if using a can of air. Blow into all crevices on the motherboard, heat sinks, cards, modules, etc. for a desktop. Blow into vents, opened panels, disc drive areas, USB ports, and the keyboard if it is a laptop. You may also want to blow inside the disc drive by replacing the drive to the laptop, starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step. For a desktop, you may also want to blow inside the disc drive by starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step.
6. Replace casing for the desktop. Replace panels and disc drive (if you have not already done so) for the laptop.
7. Plug power supplies in. AC adapter for the desktop. Battery and then AC Adapter for the laptop.
8. Start the computer and see if performance is better.

 

[pintree3]

The PC is just about dust free. This is on of the 1st things I did when I noticed the problem. I bought an actual air compressor for this reason alone since I do it so often and cans of compressed air add up in cost.

 

[writhziden]

Given the time between issues starting again, this feels like software to me. It could be memory or hard drive based causing corruption of the system, though. That may mean a bad hard disk, bad RAM, bad CPU memory controller, or a bad motherboard.

 

[pintree3]

Ok if a software issue--then should I do a complete windows reinstall? If hardware then the only way to test this would be -a- after the windows re-installation and if problem is still there to take it to a pro shop? or???

 

[writhziden]

A Windows re-install may help. You would need to take it slow to determine whether it is hardware; let us help you find drivers and do not install any software until after all drivers and Windows updates have been installed. Once you have the system clean re-installed with only Windows updates installed (no drivers installed other than those by Windows), please provide us with your msinfo32 file:

To get this: Start Menu -> Type msinfo32 into the Search programs and files box -> When it opens, go to File, Save -> Save as msinfo32.nfo and save in a place you will remember -> Let it finish the process of gathering and saving the system info -> Right click the .nfo file, click send to compressed (zipped) folder -> Upload the .zip file here.
​

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/219487-clean-reinstall-factory-oem-windows-7-a.html#post1839164

 

[pintree3]

Update. The last 10 days or so my PC would reboot on its own right after I turned it on. On a couple of occasions this week it actually did not autoreboot but actually auto shut itself off on turning it on. My 2nd last time I did that was real panic since I turned it on in the morning, immediately on boot I tried to install the windows installer and it turned itself off and then would not turn on at all. What I mean is it acted as if there was no electricity whatsoever--no power--no humming of hard drives or fans, no little lights on the front of the case--nothing what-so-ever. Remember, how I said that at times the slightest touch of my PC would cause it to reboot? Anyhow I checked the plugs and still no go. I then unplugged everything, every USB cable, monitor cable etc. Opene3d my pc. Removed my 4 RAM sticks, cleaned them with alcohol, rechecked to make sure everything, every wire and all was tightly in, replugged everything and luckily all started well again. I turned it off and on a few times without installing anything this time and all was "OK" so to speak again. This was really worrisome making me think that perhaps it's my power supply the problem.
Anyhow I now did a fresh install of my Windows7 Home premium 64 bit. And as instructed I will await your reply regarding adding drivers and software.
Also, If I may: On reinstalling the PC showed my drives and one of them was listed as "System Reserve" on what I think was the same drive as my C: drive since it had about the same Gigs as my C drive has. However, I also noticed another drive, seeming the same one with about the same Gigs. What is odd about this is that it seems to have taken some of my original C: drive and split it into 2. Is this possible? I did not use it as my OS installation drive. And used what I believed to be my true C: drive for this. Once the installation was complete I noticed that I now have a drive, labeled " System Reserved D: " Showing it had about 70MB out of 100MB free. Opening this drive showed it empty. absolutely nothing in it. Windows updated itself. Then on reboot and me changing my taskbar setting and a few similar cosmetics and then went online to write you this. I checked this folder again and it now has the following d folders: -1- $RECYCLE.BIN, Boot, System Volume information. and files: Bootmgr (no extension) and BOOTSEKT.BAK
The "boot" folder also exists in another physical drive. BTW a 'boot' folder never but never existed before prior to this new Win7 Installation. What's it doing there and where does it come from?
Also, Do I need the above " System Reserved D: " drive? and if yes, it's needed, is it safe to change its drive letter? Prior to this new installation my then D: drive was where about 2/3 of my software was installed and also where many of my shortcuts in other drives and folders point to.
Why?

 

[writhziden]

It is interesting. I have a similar problem on my own system where a System Reserved partition suddenly became accessible through Windows Explorer and was assigned a drive letter. I have no idea why, either. Since we both have this problem, I am going to ask our installation expert to take a look and maybe he can help us both at the same time.

I'll let him handle whether or not you can change the drive letter.

 

[gregrocker]

Please post back a screenshot of your maximized Disk Management drive map and listings:

1. Type Disk Management in Start Search box.
2. Open Disk Mgmt. window and maximize it.
3. Type Snipping Tool in Start Search box.
4. Open Snipping Tool, choose Rectangular Snip, draw a box around full map and all listings.
5, Save Snip, attach using paper clip in Reply Box.

Tell us what is on each partition.

System Reserved will show empty until System and Hidden files are unhidden at Control Panel>Folder Options>View, then if it has a letter you can browse it. It should be marked System Active to signify it is booting the system. Boot flag simply means which OS is booted at the time.

I don't know why your SysReserved was issued a letter but it doesn't need one and it can be removed: Drive Letter - Add, Change, or Remove in Windows 7 - Windows 7 Forums

I also have not had a chance yet to read back through the full thread as I am traveling for the next two days, but since a Clean Reinstall was apparently done to try to overcome the performance problems, and they could relate to corrupt code residing in the boot sector, then I'd clean reinstall again but this time wipe the HD with Diskpart Clean Command to get a completely clean slate not possibly affected by previous code.

If you'll follow these steps to Clean Reinstall - Factory OEM Windows 7 it will assure you get the best possible install.

 

[pintree3]

And suddenly there r 2 of u--heeHaw
writhziden as to our "System Reserved partition" Sshh! it's a secret Actually u may want to read what gregrocker has 2 say re: this.
gregrocker: thanks for ur help & future help. As to a clean re-install according 2 ur link, that is exactly what was done.
update: After posting my previous note Windows decided to update some more, this time a hell of a lot of stuff. Since I was told to, "do not install any software until after all drivers and Windows updates have been installed (based on the drivers u will tell me to install). And was also told, "please provide us with your msinfo32 file" Attached then is the "after the 2nd series of Win7 updates" msinfo32 file.
Also: although told not install software I did install Firefox and the java update for it and Puran Defrag as suggested by this website for a clean reinstall (I am very nervous about not having any antivirus BTW).
Also: Windows Install Optional updates upon the 1st and 2nd updates showed 5 Optional updates. Though I did NOT choose any of them to update upon the other updates only 3 showed up afterwards.
These 3 NOT updated are: -1-Realtek - Network - Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller -2- Update for Windows 7 x64based systems (KB2709981) and -3- Viewsonic - Display - Viewsonic VX2453 Series
Finally: Decided to do the following. Move all folders/files from other Drives (drive e: to drive f: drive f: to drive g: etc. in order to format each drive (and then move them back). So far have done 1 and am in the process of doing the 2nd. It takes hours per drive. Is there a shortcut? Also removed windows games.
gregrocker: I, did as u asked re: "Disk Management". See attached. (The only thing invisible in that image is the
DVD-r drive)

 

[gregrocker]

Mark G Inactive lest it will surely steal your System boot files as soon as you run a Repair: Partition - Mark as Inactive - Windows 7 Forums. I would want the OS drive in Disk0 position for this reason, making sure it remains set first to boot in BIOS setup.

Remove the drive letter from System Reserved: Drive Letter - Add, Change, or Remove in Windows 7 - Windows 7 Forums

If this does not help with the problem, and it may not, then I'd start with the hardware tests in these Troubleshooting Steps for Windows 7, gradually working through all of them to gather clues and possible solutions. Based on your feedback we will have additional steps.

 

[pintree3]

Mark G Inactive lest it will surely steal your System boot files as soon as you run a Repair: Partition - Mark as Inactive - Windows 7 Forums. I would want the OS drive in Disk0 position for this reason, making sure it remains set first to boot in BIOS setup.

Remove the drive letter from System Reserved: Drive Letter - Add, Change, or Remove in Windows 7 - Windows 7 Forums . . . . . If this does not help with the problem, and it may not, then I'd start with the hardware tests in these Troubleshooting Steps for Windows 7, . . . . ..

Thanks for ur help. I did the partition thing. As to the rest ' writhziden ' has been a godsend and truly helpful. He has already suggested doing that. if you are interested in this challenge, which has been going on for quite a while now, please feel free to read the post from the beginning. Yes it is many pages long at this point but it would give you a clear idea as to what has been done, what has been found etc. In the process, being more fully informed, your advice would be more fruitful.
thanks again

 

[pintree3]

writhziden any news as to which drivers I may begin to install (including the ones suggested by "Windows Update" so I can then begin slowly installing some software?
Also: Using Puran Defrag I did a boottime defragmentation with full disk-checkup. On reboot when the checkup was taking place stages 1, 2, and 3, went quickly without problems. When it went to 'Stage 4 USN Journal' I can see the numbers of clusters being tested moving forward at about a rate of 2 to 3 changes per second. However, at 11% it stopped for 1:09 minutes then a few seconds later, still at 11% again for 0:17 seconds then a few seconds later for 0:23 seconds then a few seconds later for 1:26 minutes and then for 7 seconds--always at 11%. After this all continued normally including stage 5. During this very slow part at 4th stage 11% could I assume some repair work was being done? And if so, and this being my OS drive should I consider buying a new one?
Finally why does this forum suggest "Puran Defrag" I've been using Auslogics Disk Defrag and it seems to me quite good and faster. Is Puran really batter or safer?

 

[writhziden]

To provide you with help with driver installation, I need some more information. Do both of the following:

• Please upload your msinfo32.nfo file. To get this: Start Menu -> Type msinfo32 into the Search programs and files box -> When it opens, go to File, Save -> Save as msinfo32.nfo and save in a place you will remember -> Let it finish the process of gathering and saving the system info -> Right click the .nfo file, click send to compressed (zipped) folder -> Upload the .zip file here.
  
  
• Please upload your msinfo32.txt file. To get this: Start Menu -> Type msinfo32 into the Search programs and files box -> When it opens, go to File, Export -> Save as msinfo32.txt and save in a place you will remember -> Let it finish the process of gathering and saving the system info -> Right click the .txt file, click send to compressed (zipped) folder -> Upload the .zip file here.

As to Puran defrag, you will have to wait for Greg's response on that. I personally avoid 3rd party defrag programs.

I have seen them damage restore points and even cause blue screen crashes. Windows has some nice command line flags for the defrag command that will accomplish the same tasks as 3rd party programs. The -b and -w flags will defrag boot files and the boot registry items as well as compact the data to the center of the disk for faster access.

defrag c: -b
defrag -c -v -w
​

The first command optimizes boot performance for the Windows drive by defragmenting boot files and boot registry items.

The second command includes all drives on the system through the -c command and optimizes the drives by compacting the data to the center of the disk. Verbose output through the -v option is optional to provide the user with more information about the defrag tasks. The commands have to be run in an http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/783-elevated-command-prompt.html.

For more flags, see http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/11733-disk-defragmenter-open-use.html.
​

 

[pintree3]

Hi writhziden I had already done so re; the msinfo file but I have included it again -BTW there was no save as txt only save as nfo but I added the extension myself there in the box and it came out as such.
As to 'Puran defrag' I did so because the link you gave me regarding the re-installation of windows said so. Thanks for ur command line way of doing so. What is the 'w command and where can I get more info regarding these commands
Also what is ur opinion on me removing some of may partitions, and therefore end up with less but larger ones? i ask this because though I know the advantages there are 2 disadvantages which to me are worthy to note; -1- less wear and tear in the drive (therefore less likely to break down) -2- faster If u agree with me can all the files remain in those partitions while they are being merged into one?

Update: As much as I hated doing so necessity required me to do so. I have installed some software and drivers. They are; GOM player, Avast antivirus, Foxit Reader, 7zip, Firefox, Chrome and Lastpass attached to them. also MY HP all-in-one printer which in turn also required java and the USB 3.0 driver. All of the above done in the last 2 days did not cause any crashes.
There is one thing though that did happen: about 2 reboots after all the windows updates I closed the lid of my PC which is now laying next to it but unattached. In closing the lid means that all of my many cables (as seen from the photo sent b4) are squeezed and push against the motherboard and other stuff. Well in doing so the computer will not start--no sounds, no little lights, no nothing--as if there is no power. thus telling me 2 things -1- my case is too small -2- maybe something is wrong with one of the cables, or the place where it attaches or the power supply itself.

 

[writhziden]

Universal Serial Bus (USB) Controller	PCI\VEN_1033&DEV_0194&SUBSYS_84131043&REV_03\4&18A226F2&0&00E3	The drivers for this device are not installed.

Install all USB related drivers from your support site. ASUS - Motherboards- ASUS P7P55D-E LX -> Windows 7 64bit -> USB


That should take care of all your drivers you need.


My system has two partitions in Windows. My Windows partition where my games/programs/users lie with the Windows system files, and my Data partition where I keep my videos, music, documents, etc. I have not moved my actual users folder; I just keep most things on the Data drive for easier backup and to make it easier to re-install Windows if need be. Having more than two partitions does slow things down because they are placed further from the center of the hard disk. It is better to have as few partitions as possible. You need ~150 GB of space for Windows if you have a lot of programs. I have mine set at 200 GB. Obviously, Windows can run with as low as 60 GB as many do so with their SSDs, but I do not see any reason to do so with a platter drive.


As to the defrag flags, the -w flag is what tells Windows to compact the files as it defrags so they are closer to the center of the disk for faster access.


Sounds like when you close the lid, something gets shorted... A bigger case may be in order at some point in the near future.

 

[pintree3]

Because of my printer I had to install yesterday the USB 3.0 drivers. From the Asus site and under 'USB" it gave me NEC_USB3_V10190_XpVistaWin7. Today, in reading your post, I installed the chipset drivers: Intel_Chipset_V9111020_XPVistaWin7. This I saw as it was installing actually included many drivers for different things. In reading your post again however, I then realized that perhaps you meant only the USB drivers and nothing else.--if so, Oops. Anyhow, also from the asus website what remains is:
RTL8111BCRTL8112L_LAN_V735222009_Win7
and
SATA--Marvell9123-9120_V1001042_XpVistaWin7
and
VIA_Audio_V6018700a_XpVistaWin7
and what remains from the Windows Update site is:
Realtek - Network - Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
and
Update for Windows 7 x64based systems (KB2709981)
and
Viewsonic - Display - Viewsonic VX2453 Series
Do I continue with the above? Or?
Attached is my new msinfo32 file (after the above updates and reboot).
Oh! And about the partitions -before I turn my partitions E: and F: into one must I 1st move the files from one into the other?